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Home > Technical > It was all going too well - C-19 rebuild woes, caliper bolts

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Mean Green

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 280

It was all going too well - C-19 rebuild woes, caliper bolts

It was all going too well! Like many others I have been using my time 'off' on furlough to rebuild my 1993 90 onto a galv chassis. Until now it has been easier than I expected. I am now on the rebuild stage and tackling the brakes. I am replacing the entire rear system as the calipers are badly rusted. First caliper bolt dissolved as soon as I put a spanner on it - I didnt even get a change to put any sort of pressure on it before it rounded. I knocked a smaller size socket onto it and it got a good hold but would not budge, until it slipped and rounded the head. Bolts 2 and 3 were very tight but came out with a long bar (and extension). The last bolt snapped as soon as I put the socket on - I didnt even get the chance to put the long bar on it.

So I now have 1 caliper off, the hub stripped down to access the bolt hole and a bolt snapped inside the hole. The second caliper cannot come off as the head is rounded.

Help!! I have drilled out about a 6mm or so hole in the snapped bolt and tried stud extractors and a bit of heat (I didn't have the heat when I snapped them). It wont budge and I am scared the stud extractor breaks. I have not attempted anything on the rounded head yet.

Any suggestions or experiences to draw on??

Cheers

10th Jun 2020 4:58pm

Badger110

Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: South hams
Posts: 1039

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue

Can you get access to weld a nut onto it?

10th Jun 2020 4:59pm

Mean Green

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 280

The rounded head yes, but the other one has snapped flush with the face (Oh and I cant weld)

10th Jun 2020 5:02pm

T140

Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 173

you can place a nut over the one that's broken flush and weld through the nut onto the sheared bolt, the heat from the weld should help loosen the bolt nobody is perfect but being Scottish is a start

10th Jun 2020 5:39pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5700

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

Cut the calliper off. They are fairly cheap, and probably need to be replaced after so long on there.

10th Jun 2020 7:20pm

Pacha

Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 772

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

^^^^^^

Just paid £32 for a new rear caliper. Rgds.

Chris

10th Jun 2020 7:25pm

Devon-Rover

Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 916

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green

Irwin bolt grips is my go to when dealing with festering caliper bolts.

Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest

10th Jun 2020 7:40pm

Harry.O

Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 713

With the bolt that has snapped flush with the caliper, get a couple of left-handed drill bits then continue to drill it out with the drill in reverse, eventually as you work up the sizes of drill bits and the bolt starts to thin from the inside out, it will start to unscrew. I've used this method on a few TD5 exhaust manifolds with good success. 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles

11th Jun 2020 8:15am

Pugit666

Member Since: 04 Mar 2020
Location: York
Posts: 43

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

This happened to me too. I split the Caliper and drilled the bolt out from the front. Took me about a fortnight haha

13th Jun 2020 10:53am

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