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66north



Member Since: 08 Oct 2010
Location: The North
Posts: 104

United Kingdom 
Heated Seat upgrade
Looking to upgrade to heated seats for winter in my Puma. Is there any factory wiring in the latest models ready to plug straight into or do I have to make up a loom from switch to seat, relay etc etc.

Apologies if this is a boring old question but I did check in search first honest!
Post #83177 5th Aug 2011 3:25pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
You must build the loom......

Search on the forum for the link for dowmload the electric diagrams Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #83188 5th Aug 2011 5:45pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 501

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
The Factory wiring is not that great - the dash switches switch the seat heating elements directly, there are no relays in the circuit Confused

You could make a much better job of it than Land Rover, by using the dash switches to switch relays in the RH underseat fuse box compartment and decent gauge wire to the seats.

If you were using genuine Land Rover seat heaters, a compatible connector for the the vehicle loom side can be bought from a BMW dealer, but it isn't cheap Shocked

A cheaper alternative is to replace the connector on the seat elements with a connector model where both halves are readily available, such as an AMP Econoseal connector, or the larger (2.8mm) 'Superseal' connector.


See these posts for more info -

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.p...ost1609513


http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69458


. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'


Last edited by PaulMc on 6th Aug 2011 8:55pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #83254 6th Aug 2011 3:30pm
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noworries4x4



Member Since: 24 Dec 2010
Location: Newton Abbot Devon
Posts: 1195

England 
Try towing a heavy trailer, the seat basses get toastie by themselves, with built in handbrake ankle heater.
Shocked Shocked If everything is under control you are not going fast enough.

Every Day 16 MY Discovery 4 Commercial Workshop and Escort Vehicle
Weekends 07MY L322 TDV8 Vogue SE
Series 1 80" 3ltr 6cyl with overdrive
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Post #83267 6th Aug 2011 6:48pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
PaulMc wrote:
The Factory wiring is not that great - the dash switches switch the seat heating elements directly, there are no relays in the circuit Confused


Beg to differ about the factory wiring, here are a few facts and figures...

Each seat circuit has a heater element rated at about 14.4 watts at maximum current draw.
Each seat will draw only 10 amps each maximum, being protected by a single 20 amp fuse (fuse 33).
The maximum resistance value of the seat heater element would be 1.2 ohms.
1mm cable in the worse case scenario can carry 11 amps.

My factory wiring for me is ideal and as a sparky I am not about to fit relays as it is functional and fit for purpose! Thumbs Up

If building from scratch relays although 'best practice' are not required in the circuit. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #83274 6th Aug 2011 9:04pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 501

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
K9F wrote:
PaulMc wrote:
The Factory wiring is not that great - the dash switches switch the seat heating elements directly, there are no relays in the circuit Confused


Beg to differ about the factory wiring, here are a few facts and figures...

Each seat circuit has a heater element rated at about 14.4 watts at maximum current draw.
Each seat will draw only 10 amps each maximum, being protected by a single 20 amp fuse (fuse 33).
The maximum resistance value of the seat heater element would be 1.2 ohms.
1mm cable in the worse case scenario can carry 11 amps.

My factory wiring for me is ideal and as a sparky I am not about to fit relays as it is functional and fit for purpose! Thumbs Up

If building from scratch relays although 'best practice' are not required in the circuit.



I'm not disputing that the wiring isn't adequate, it's just a bit too 'minimalist' for my liking.

The wires from the switches to the seat connectors are 0.75mm2 and the terminals in the AMP Sealed MQS connectors are rated to just 7.5 Amps.

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #83277 6th Aug 2011 10:18pm
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110SEB



Member Since: 29 Jan 2009
Location: Essex, England
Posts: 1444

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
K9F and PaulMc, stop flirting!
Post #83278 6th Aug 2011 10:29pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
PaulMc wrote:
K9F wrote:
PaulMc wrote:
The Factory wiring is not that great - the dash switches switch the seat heating elements directly, there are no relays in the circuit Confused


Beg to differ about the factory wiring, here are a few facts and figures...

Each seat circuit has a heater element rated at about 14.4 watts at maximum current draw.
Each seat will draw only 10 amps each maximum, being protected by a single 20 amp fuse (fuse 33).
The maximum resistance value of the seat heater element would be 1.2 ohms.
1mm cable in the worse case scenario can carry 11 amps.

My factory wiring for me is ideal and as a sparky I am not about to fit relays as it is functional and fit for purpose! Thumbs Up

If building from scratch relays although 'best practice' are not required in the circuit.



I'm not disputing that the wiring isn't adequate, it's just a bit too 'minimalist' for my liking.

The wires from the switches to the seat connectors are 0.75mm2 and the terminals in the AMP Sealed MQS connectors are rated to just 7.5 Amps.

.


Irony

Where to start...a defender owner talking about minimalism or one not complaining "what have land rover done...its an over complicated electrical system, which will never work in th bush...bring back the series 3 it didnt rely on electrics" Whistle Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Mike
Post #83291 7th Aug 2011 7:47am
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66north



Member Since: 08 Oct 2010
Location: The North
Posts: 104

United Kingdom 
Cheers guys!

It's time to dig the roll of wire then!

Kev
Post #83431 8th Aug 2011 1:49pm
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fut1a



Member Since: 14 Jul 2011
Location: chester
Posts: 41

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Are the heated seats any good or are mine not working? I put my heated seats on to see if they are any good and both the mrs and I could not feel a thing even after 20min. In other cars i've had with heated seats you can feel it almost straight away. 59 reg 90 XS Station Wagon
2010 Honda Fireblade
Post #83512 8th Aug 2011 9:20pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Takes a few minutes to toast your nads or split kipper but it is noticable. Maybe they're not so noticable in the Summer if the ambient temperature is high? Maybe someone will try theirs and report back.....Or I will next time I drive mine!

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #83530 9th Aug 2011 6:51am
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
they work very well 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #83533 9th Aug 2011 7:25am
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eutek



Member Since: 03 Mar 2009
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 586

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
fut1a wrote:
Are the heated seats any good or are mine not working? I put my heated seats on to see if they are any good and both the mrs and I could not feel a thing even after 20min. In other cars i've had with heated seats you can feel it almost straight away.


Ours heat up fairly quickly. They provide some comfort on a cold morning, just enough to take the edge off the severe cold until the engine warms up enough to provide heat.
Post #83549 9th Aug 2011 9:31am
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nikojo



Member Since: 05 Aug 2011
Location: Madrid
Posts: 75

Does someone have the part numbers for the heated seat switches themselves AND the connectors that fit them??

For a 09 110

Thanks for any help.

Does this look right?? http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YUG102430

Does it matter if it is "left" or "right"??

Can't find connector for this???
Post #84288 14th Aug 2011 1:30am
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
mse wrote:
...bring back the series 3 it didnt relay on electrics" Whistle Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter


Missed a good pun there....... Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter

Well, after nearly needing a change of pants with the pillow talk.... I would only make one mod to my heated seats. That would be to fit a potentiometer so the heat can be adjusted- It takes 5-10 mins to warm up and then another 5-10 mins till it is too hot for my liking.

But then again I am not worried about using them for the next 2 years Very Happy

Glyn Dog Sheep


Last edited by Glynparry25 on 14th Aug 2011 10:02am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #84289 14th Aug 2011 4:18am
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