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Avelingporter



Member Since: 25 Jan 2016
Location: Southampton
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
110 td5 Chassis beam replacement
My friends late td5 had a recent note on his MOT replace the cross member of his chassis. Not the rear one, but the one just forwards of the rear wheel. Or if you prefer the one under your bum sitting in the rear seats!

Clearly this is bolted, but how to you get the old one out and new one in?

How much, or little, do we have to remove to do the swap.

Also what is it’s correct name. Might be easier to find in a parts list.

Ps I know his chassis is a bit rusty, I have been trying to get him to go see Zagato for ages!!!

This one....



Post #823917 7th Apr 2020 5:04pm
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Intercept



Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
Post #823921 7th Apr 2020 5:26pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6090

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
110 SW middle seat support.

I don't think they can be easily changed with the body work in situe... I'm ready to be proved wrong, but I've read about people cutting them in half and sliding each half in from each side, then either bolting them back together with some straps or welding it.
Post #823923 7th Apr 2020 5:27pm
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Intercept



Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
No external body work needs to be removed. See https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic70049.html for details
Post #823924 7th Apr 2020 5:30pm
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Disco_Mikey



Member Since: 16 Nov 2014
Location: Dundee
Posts: 531

Scotland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green
I bought a galv one with bolt on brackets from YRM

Lift up the 2nd row floor panel, cut the old crossmember out, new one slides in (with a bit of persuasion!)

Still a fairly long job, but the easiest way I've found to do them Thumbs Up

EDIT: As per the above post Embarassed Laughing
Post #823925 7th Apr 2020 5:34pm
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Avelingporter



Member Since: 25 Jan 2016
Location: Southampton
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Perfect, thank you gents. Doesn’t sound too bad a job as we thought. Very useful to know to go to yrm for the new bit.
Thx Douglas
Post #823927 7th Apr 2020 5:55pm
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Avelingporter



Member Since: 25 Jan 2016
Location: Southampton
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Well, no going back now. Easter lock down project.

Post #824380 10th Apr 2020 9:54am
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Avelingporter



Member Since: 25 Jan 2016
Location: Southampton
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
It came out eventually. Will be on the phone to YRM on Tuesday.

The worst of the rot was almost impossible to see. Might be worth a check next time you are underneath yours.


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Post #824594 11th Apr 2020 2:04pm
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UtilityTruck



Member Since: 09 Jan 2014
Location: Oxford
Posts: 463

United Kingdom 
I’m reapplying underseal to my tdci and I read your post with interest.

The beam, at least on mine appears to be an open ‘C’ section for most of its length, but directly above the main chassis rails it is boxed in, creating small closed sections. I found small access holes on the underside, both sides of the car that allowed the injection lance inside; I’ve given both sides a good squirt of Dynax S50. Thanks 🙏 2014 Keswick Utility 2.2
Post #824804 12th Apr 2020 2:04pm
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Avelingporter



Member Since: 25 Jan 2016
Location: Southampton
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Just to finish off this thread, the replacement from YRM is in. Impossible to get in without cutting off the brackets above the trailing arm supports. Don’t know what they were for. Not doing anything on a SW 110. We assume they are for another body variant?





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Post #826580 20th Apr 2020 3:33pm
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Chris86



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 788

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 USW Chawton White
Body Crossmember
Hello,

Have just done the same job on our 110 TD5- managed to do ours without cutting those brackets off with a bit of manipulation and jacking about the body- its incredibly tight but just about do-able.

How bad was the front face of the rear seatbox- ours was pretty much toast so have replaced it whilst we are on with it.

If I had realised how bad the seatbox was beforehand I would have just done that at the time and saved a lot of faff.



Chris
Post #826585 20th Apr 2020 4:01pm
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Intercept



Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
It was the corrosion on the seatbox that caused me to investigate mine. Hence the repair plates and careful isolation of aluminium from steel during beam replacement. I didn't need to cut off any brackets from my Td5 DCPU to fit the new YRM beam, which was all done from inside the cabin without removing any external bodywork.


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Post #826589 20th Apr 2020 4:44pm
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Avelingporter



Member Since: 25 Jan 2016
Location: Southampton
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Seat box was alright. Small touch up around bolt holes, but really very localised. Maybe it was the well known LR tolerances. But if defo wasn’t going in without the bracket removal. Not that they are needed anyway. Once we made up our minds to remove them it was a quick job. Should have saved 2 hours of swearing and gashed knuckles.
Post #826599 20th Apr 2020 5:26pm
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