luke11 wrote:

I was planning on switching the negative on the recovery lights but when i connect the switch up ( an aux 2 latching dash switch) the indicator LED is always on (dull when the switch is off and bright when on)

Can anyone help..... do you know the pin connections of the switch?

luke11 wrote:

I'm a bit confused, i thought i'd done eveything correctly.

The switch is turning the lights on and off as it should, it illuminates when the side lights are on, but the orange indicatoor light is on all the time when connected.

Any ideas?

luke11 wrote:

I'm a bit confused, i thought i'd done eveything correctly.

The switch is turning the lights on and off as it should, it illuminates when the side lights are on, but the orange indicatoor light is on all the time when connected.

Any ideas?

PaulMc wrote:

one_iota wrote:

The driving light switch on the far right is part no YUG 000540LNF purchased from www.britishparts.co.uk.

I haven't worked out how to get the switch illumination and on-light to work but at least the driving light switching is working (pins 1 & 4).

That's because YUG000540LNF switches the earth from the accessory's relay and not the feed to it.

If you use it to switch across pins 1 & 4, it will work as a simple On/Off switch but, you won't get either the green illumination or orange 'tell-tale' light to work, as they are LEDs and require the switch to be wired-up as designed.

To help me understand how to wire up my auxiliary lamps, I sat down and drew a diagram showing how the switch is wired internally and then added a basic auxiliary light circuit to the diagram.

The trigger is shown as coming from the High Beam warning lamp, this is for Driving Lamps.

For Front Fog Lamps, this trigger would be taken from the Sidelights or Dipped Beam - depending on local lighting regulations.


Click image to enlarge


The proper Tyco/AMP Connector 347477-1 with 5 x crimp terminals is available from Dingocroft, their Pt No. ZZPLUG01 -

http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Elec...#aZZPLUG01




There's a lot more info here -

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.p...546498#new


Paul.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

PaulMc wrote:

luke11 wrote:

I'm a bit confused, i thought i'd done eveything correctly.

The switch is turning the lights on and off as it should, it illuminates when the side lights are on, but the orange indicatoor light is on all the time when connected.

Any ideas?

Could you confirm the part number of the switch you have?

And how you have wired it - which wire goes to which pin on the switch?

.

luke11 wrote:

I'll need to check on the part number but its an AUX 2 latching light switch, the connections are below

Pin 1 - Negative from the LED beacons
Pin 2 - Dash lights, taken from pin 2 on another switch
Pin 3 - Earth on the bulkhead
Pin 4 - Not Used
Pin 5 - Permanent 12 Volt fused

Thanks
Luke

All looks fine, except for Pin 5

A permanent live on Pin 5, will light the Orange 'Tell-Tale' LED permanently, as you describe.

Pin 5 should be powered from the switched positive side of your lamps (see my diagram above), so that it lights only when your lamps have power and are lit.


Edit:

Re-reading your previous post, you mention LED lamps, I'm guessing that you aren't using a relay in your circuit?

If so, then the 'Aux 2' switch, in it's standard form, isn't best suited to your circuit

However, all is not lost

The switch internals can be easily modified to make it a 'live switching' switch, with all the LEDs working properly.

I don't have time to post the details right now, as I'm off out, but I think that I covered it in one of the links I posted previously.

In any case, I'll re-post the details here, later

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

PaulMc wrote:

I'll re-post the details here, later

OK, here we are


It's easy to convert the 'Aux 2' switch YUG000540LNF to a conventional live switching ON/OFF switch by cutting the brass track between the two holes, as marked in red in this next picture -


Click image to enlarge


On the switches that I've modified, I've used a needle file to gently file away the brass track at this point.


By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4


The revised circuit, for your LED lamps (without using a relay), would be as follows -


Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Fused Supply

Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination

Pin 3 - Switch Earth (for indicator LEDs)

Pin 4 - Switched Live output to LED Lamps

Pin 5 - Live in from Switch Pin 4 (for Orange 'tell-tale' LED)


You could link pins 4 & 5 inside the switch while you had it apart, by soldering a link across the brass tracks but, on my modified switches, I've just crimped an extra short length of cable into Pin 4 on the connector and looped it round into Pin 5 on the connector.


I should have shown how the switch comes apart.

The body can be separated by carefully lifting the four tabs (two on each side) on the side of the switch body.

It's not necessary to remove the switch cap to do this, even though it's shown removed in this picture -


Click image to enlarge


Re-assembly is easy, the two halves just 'snap' back together.

.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

luke11 wrote:

Thanks for all of your help Paul, i'll be doing this tonight or tomorrow, you've saved me hours of messing around and blowing fuses

Luke

Happy to help


Let us know how you get on.

.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

luke11 wrote:

All sorted! Thanks again, next job is rear work lights mounted to the truckman top with a switch at the rear and in the cab!

To 'double switch' your worklights you need to use two changeover switches, wired like this -


Click image to enlarge

This is how I've wired them in my 110, but using rocker switches for now, until I finish my 2002 Dash Console and re-wire.


It is possible to do 'double switching' using a couple of Defender/Discovery II latching switches, but they have to be modified internally.

I'm currently doing this modification to a couple of switches for some rear work lights on my Discovery II.


Another, different, way of doing it using Defender/Discovery II Switches, is to use non-latching switches such as the Heated Rear Window or Heated Windscreen switches (with only a slight internal modification ) and use them to drive a Latching Relay, such as this from Polevolt -

Ref: 72802R

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_72802R.html




12 volt latching relay, 25 amp with resistor. CO contacts.
Latching relays require a single pulse across the coil to change the state of the contacts. They must be used with momentary switches, as the coil must not be permanently energised. A relay base is not available. Five connections are by 6.3mm spade terminals. A fixing point is provided on the case side. An internal resistor is fitted across the coil to suppress back EMF.
Price each: (9 or fewer items) £16.80 (£20.16 Including VAT at 20%)
Price each: (10 or more items) £15.75 (£18.90 Including VAT at 20%)


.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'