rossy wrote:

thats a lovely one Scotty !

Is it Stornaway or Orkney ? Mine's being delivered to the dealers this week and they've told me its definately Orkney.

Miserableolgit wrote:

Zag's done one 110 and he's looked on as the forum expert. No offence but given the right [and pretty basic] equipment spraying and injecting a wax or product of your choice onto and into a factory fresh vehicle is pretty easy peasy stuff. Discovering all the shortcuts and nooks and crannies only comes with experience - I did my first back in the '70's.

MOG is right and I have just pm'd somebody the same answer. The £120 Dinitrol kit is very easy to use.(110 kit listed here http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/classic_cars.aspx ) Spray the underside (nooks and crannies, as said!) relevant mechanicals and use the extension nozzle for the chassis insides, rear cross-member, door pillars, bulkhead front and inside, doors, etc, and other sprays, sealants for under ALL the capping's, between the body joins e.g. window and bulkhead seals, main body and sides, sides and roof. Also around the unpainted rivets, front window hinges, bonnet hinges, gutter seams, mirror arms, rear window catches, wiper arm exit points, both water jets, lower ali front panel, steps etc etc and do the interior seat frames/brackets that rust from the outset any nut's bolts you can see and those under the carpets etc and lower seat belt fixing as they can rust within the year! and in and around the bottom rivets holding the lower door seals in place under the rubber etc, headlight rims, and all the external front screws etc etc Oh and door hinges, under the bonnet, cylinders, brackets, electrics, common rail etc etc, avoiding the belt and pulleys!

Too much to detail but it's simply a case of going around the vehicle methodically and either using an underbody anti-rust stuff for bit's you won't see and stuff like Wurth clear wax & ACF-50 for the bits you do (one remains a wax the other remains greasy!) & a windscreen sealant and a pot of Dum Dum will see you right for everything else Where to put some Dum Dum, sealants etc are listed in the Water Ingress Manual https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...cedure.pdf It's a satisfying job as well Just need to get underneath down and dirty and I suggest you wear a mask and overalls

Let it be said now, I am no expert but as I am half way through building a Series Land Rover with ALL the work and cost involved - YOU REALLY APPRECIATE an example you can buy off the shelf from new, already done for you and thus the importance of protecting it from deterioration I don't want to ever rebuild this one! I will never do another re-build Having said that the the 109 daily drive will be getting new galvanised chassis, wiring loom and the engine reconditioned in the near future

You don't have to do any of this of course but you will have water sitting under your window rubbers, probable leaks and rusting of pretty well everything underneath - not a problem if you are not going to keep the vehicle long term of course. The Defender is the only LR in the range that is NOT undersealed for protection, and I don't any new mass manufactured vehicles that aren't

bpman wrote:

seriously Zag .. you need to think about this new business...

a nice B&B, safe for children, near the sea, safe land rover parking and full valet services and waxoyling .. i'd be a customer

Yes I have contacted a couple of dealers who would sub-contract me to do new models if the terms were right. It might be possible to build the work up but you really need somewhere secure to keep customers second hand vehicles for a couple of days whilst it's drying with blowers from being washed so outlay on leasing a secure workshop or maybe at home on site when we hopefully move to Cornwall next year must be considered. Cornwall just hasn't got the market or catchment area as Surrey though.

I don't mind doing the occasional chassis and body etc for £150 down here in my drive for forum members (it takes time away from my other income so have to charge!) but when you start hiring premises and treating rusty chassis properly over a 2/3 day period with the help of overnight hot air blowers the costs would add up. No point in hot steaming a rusty chassis then covering it with Waxoyl your just trapping all the moisture in. The chassis needs to be cleaned and de-greased, allowed to dry before the rust is treated properly after which you put your protective rust treatment on Doing a search does bring up a few companies that do this process properly as I describe - good for them

We are looking into all options at the moment for getting an income through business or new jobs. It won't happen until next year as my wife wants to carry on teaching in her new year group for anther academic year