Home > My Defender > It's arrived |
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LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639 |
Zags Wax un-limited!
I'm sure I will use mine more once its been done I brought it as a lifer so am in no hurry to use it all the time, every trip is special still but it dosnt come out if its raining and it lives in the garage so still looks as clean or if not cleaner than the day it was purchased both inside, out and underneath DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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20th Jul 2011 7:38pm |
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LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639 |
mine
https://www.defender2.net/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=539 DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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20th Jul 2011 8:09pm |
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scotty38 Member Since: 21 May 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 571 |
Nice colour that one!
Thanks for all the comments and I think I can safely say my first mod is to have it "Zagged" |
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20th Jul 2011 8:11pm |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 |
I used to have a epsom green 110 ... superb colour
but now I have a white one .. Click image to enlarge |
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20th Jul 2011 8:14pm |
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rossy Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Co. Roscommon Posts: 1296 |
thats a lovely one Scotty !
Is it Stornaway or Orkney ? Mine's being delivered to the dealers this week and they've told me its definately Orkney. |
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20th Jul 2011 8:47pm |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 |
Zag's done one 110 and he's looked on as the forum expert. No offence but given the right [and pretty basic] equipment spraying and injecting a wax or product of your choice onto and into a factory fresh vehicle is pretty easy peasy stuff. Discovering all the shortcuts and nooks and crannies only comes with experience - I did my first back in the '70's. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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20th Jul 2011 9:24pm |
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scotty38 Member Since: 21 May 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 571 |
Thanks and it's Orkney, a bit lighter than Stornoway and yes yours will be Orkney too as they've not been able to get hold of some of the old colour chips for a while now. |
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20th Jul 2011 9:27pm |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009 |
MOG is right and I have just pm'd somebody the same answer. The £120 Dinitrol kit is very easy to use.(110 kit listed here http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/classic_cars.aspx ) Spray the underside (nooks and crannies, as said!) relevant mechanicals and use the extension nozzle for the chassis insides, rear cross-member, door pillars, bulkhead front and inside, doors, etc, and other sprays, sealants for under ALL the capping's, between the body joins e.g. window and bulkhead seals, main body and sides, sides and roof. Also around the unpainted rivets, front window hinges, bonnet hinges, gutter seams, mirror arms, rear window catches, wiper arm exit points, both water jets, lower ali front panel, steps etc etc and do the interior seat frames/brackets that rust from the outset any nut's bolts you can see and those under the carpets etc and lower seat belt fixing as they can rust within the year! and in and around the bottom rivets holding the lower door seals in place under the rubber etc, headlight rims, and all the external front screws etc etc Oh and door hinges, under the bonnet, cylinders, brackets, electrics, common rail etc etc, avoiding the belt and pulleys! Too much to detail but it's simply a case of going around the vehicle methodically and either using an underbody anti-rust stuff for bit's you won't see and stuff like Wurth clear wax & ACF-50 for the bits you do (one remains a wax the other remains greasy!) & a windscreen sealant and a pot of Dum Dum will see you right for everything else Where to put some Dum Dum, sealants etc are listed in the Water Ingress Manual https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...cedure.pdf It's a satisfying job as well Just need to get underneath down and dirty and I suggest you wear a mask and overalls Let it be said now, I am no expert but as I am half way through building a Series Land Rover with ALL the work and cost involved - YOU REALLY APPRECIATE an example you can buy off the shelf from new, already done for you and thus the importance of protecting it from deterioration I don't want to ever rebuild this one! I will never do another re-build Having said that the the 109 daily drive will be getting new galvanised chassis, wiring loom and the engine reconditioned in the near future You don't have to do any of this of course but you will have water sitting under your window rubbers, probable leaks and rusting of pretty well everything underneath - not a problem if you are not going to keep the vehicle long term of course. The Defender is the only LR in the range that is NOT undersealed for protection, and I don't any new mass manufactured vehicles that aren't Last edited by Zagato on 21st Jul 2011 7:02am. Edited 10 times in total |
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20th Jul 2011 10:18pm |
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Lukey Boy Member Since: 10 Jun 2011 Location: Norwich Posts: 122 |
Great colour! 2008 110 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
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20th Jul 2011 10:58pm |
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LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639 |
i have already brought all the gear from Rust , MIL spec wax dinitrol etc etc
Its the time a dry day and a location to do mine thats the problem, I would rather be involved and get to know the car than send it away for a few days and not be sure what has been done to it. Have done a 90 in the past but had a rust proof drive for the next few months DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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21st Jul 2011 5:06am |
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rossy Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Co. Roscommon Posts: 1296 |
Zagato if you're about
When I'm back in Ireland I should be picking mine around Aug 6th. That gives me just 2 days off before we're off to London in it. I got hold of a box of 12 waxoyl aerosols for € 60 and I was going to do just the inner chassis ie pump it through the holes as this seems to be the most important area from reading your previous posts. I have also a product called GT7 (made by a company called Tec7) which seems to be identical to AC50 in terms of what it does and I was going to spray that through the holes in pillars and doors - in fact anywhere which is subject to damp but not directly exposed to weather. Is that OK for a start until I get more time ? O great champion of ferrous product preservation |
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21st Jul 2011 6:59pm |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 |
seriously Zag .. you need to think about this new business...
a nice B&B, safe for children, near the sea, safe land rover parking and full valet services and waxoyling .. i'd be a customer |
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21st Jul 2011 8:07pm |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009 |
We must all unite to defeat this deadly corrosive threat to our planetary goods - let the brown blot on our society be gone! Err or just use some Waxoyl, yeah sounds good to me Rossy
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21st Jul 2011 8:16pm |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009 |
Yes I have contacted a couple of dealers who would sub-contract me to do new models if the terms were right. It might be possible to build the work up but you really need somewhere secure to keep customers second hand vehicles for a couple of days whilst it's drying with blowers from being washed so outlay on leasing a secure workshop or maybe at home on site when we hopefully move to Cornwall next year must be considered. Cornwall just hasn't got the market or catchment area as Surrey though. I don't mind doing the occasional chassis and body etc for £150 down here in my drive for forum members (it takes time away from my other income so have to charge!) but when you start hiring premises and treating rusty chassis properly over a 2/3 day period with the help of overnight hot air blowers the costs would add up. No point in hot steaming a rusty chassis then covering it with Waxoyl your just trapping all the moisture in. The chassis needs to be cleaned and de-greased, allowed to dry before the rust is treated properly after which you put your protective rust treatment on Doing a search does bring up a few companies that do this process properly as I describe - good for them We are looking into all options at the moment for getting an income through business or new jobs. It won't happen until next year as my wife wants to carry on teaching in her new year group for anther academic year |
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21st Jul 2011 8:31pm |
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