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sconie

Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Paisley
Posts: 50

Door bolt help neaded 110

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Hi all, I'm currently working through replacing the door bolts on my 110 to stainless steel. I've hit a problem with the central lower pillar that the rear doors mount too. I had presumed as with the front there would be an internal nut on the chassis interior rather than a loose nut. However on replacing the the stainless steel bolt in the hole it just spins as though there is nothing to screw into?
I can't see any access to the interior of this pillar so I'm stumped, any advice please.

19th Jan 2020 3:42pm

bankz5152

Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2188

Underneath. Look up the B pillar is hollow with access underneath Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent

19th Jan 2020 4:21pm

ericvv

Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

If I remember well, on both top and bottom inside of the B-pillar there should be a plate welded on with nuts to receive the screws. Pretty sure that is correct as I did the job twice. First going from mild steel to SS, but quickly reverting back to new mild steel with plenty Weicon paste.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
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19th Jan 2020 8:05pm

sconie

Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Paisley
Posts: 50

Thanks, I;ll have a look underneath in the daylight. I'm hoping there is a bold inside as if not then the internal welded nut has broken off whilst removing the bolt! don't know where that will leave my as I still have another rusty bolt holding the door hinge.

19th Jan 2020 8:17pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17548

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

You can use conventional nuts on all the B post bolts if need be, but it's a bit fiddly at the bottom. I seem to recall that the nut plates are not retained and fall out if you remove both bolts. They're easy to replace.

19th Jan 2020 10:26pm

Roy5695

Member Since: 15 Feb 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 1123

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Indus Silver

On the B pillars the nut plates aren’t fixed to the pillar. They will/should fall out when you remove the bolts.

I refitted mine with nyloc nuts, that little bit more of a faff but means they can’t just be unbolted from the outside. 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html

Instagram - @r22oyp

Roy

19th Jan 2020 11:03pm

sconie

Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Paisley
Posts: 50

Thanks all. I'll set about it in the morning. Cheers

19th Jan 2020 11:12pm

Stiff1

Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 601

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

So is it fair to say if all the plates and nuts are in place correctly you should be able to replace one bolt at a time from the outside without worrying about anything falling away inside?

20th Jan 2020 11:06pm

sconie

Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Paisley
Posts: 50

Well my 2012 with only 30k had one internal nut seized and only by removing the other three bolts I had enough slack to hacksaw it off. As advised above, you need to get under the pillar with a torch and after cleaning and protecting, add a normal stainless nut to the bolt. So far I've done 3/4 of the 110, however the door side bolts in the kit have came up short! I'm hopefully awaiting longer bolts from the supplying company (ebay)
really enjoying the graft around my first defender and as a biker I love to fabricate, adapt and get over a challenge..... So many plans.... Too little cash lol 😂

20th Jan 2020 11:38pm

donmacn

Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1852

(Edit - this is a reply to Stiff1s question)

Not 100%. You need to offer the plate/nuts up and keep them in place while you get the first bolt of each hinge to catch, then the second bolt should hopefully find the nut Ok, but even then the plate might need a little jiggle to get into the right place.

The plate/nuts are separate, and not held onto the body in any way. This is obviously what allows the doors to adjust vertically - that the 'floating' nut plates allow the doors to be adjusted up or down. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

20th Jan 2020 11:41pm

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