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Bundubasher



Member Since: 25 Sep 2008
Location: Sandton
Posts: 34

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
My diff lock always disengaged on bumpy roads. Took it to the dealer and they noticed that some or other mechanism was installed incorrectly. They removed the mechanism and reinstalled it the correct way now the diff lock remains engaged. The strain on the transmission when using diff lock is negligable as long as you are not on tar. As long as the surface is sandy or slippery for the safety of you and your family you must drive with diff lock on. You paid a lot of money for a vehicle with diff lock so use it.
Post #7967 4th Mar 2009 10:24am
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
The only way you won't get wind up is if you are loosing traction- means both wheels can turn together. so if you are on a regular dirt track you will either get windup or the vehicle will 'crab' (can result in a roll) where the wheels are trying to go the same speed. I have seen many Land Rovers and trucks with snapped half shafts when they have been going down a track in 3rd gear, diff lock and then BANG.

I advise not to do it as I have spent many an hour recovering and repairing vehicles because of this reason and would never want it to happen to anyone. I have driven defenders on 3 continents, from desert sand to artic snow drifts. The last thing on my mind is diff lock, unless I think I can't get out.

If I get stuck because of traction at least I can dig/winch/recover out- once you snap a drive shaft you are stranded.

Glyn
Post #7996 4th Mar 2009 4:33pm
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foz.in.oz



Member Since: 31 Jul 2008
Location: Gladstone, QLD
Posts: 64

Australia 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Glynparry25 wrote:

If I get stuck because of traction at least I can dig/winch/recover out- once you snap a drive shaft you are stranded.

Glyn


Or you can remove the broken shaft engage the central diff lock and drive out Land Rovers are an addiction. Toyotas are for quitters.

WWW.CQLROC.ORG
Post #8038 4th Mar 2009 10:14pm
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mhasting2004



Member Since: 07 Dec 2008
Location: Gosford
Posts: 29

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
It might be a typical Aussie thing but I use the diff lock quite often at high speeds (100kmh) if the road has "wash board" corragations. There is no way IMHO you will wind up the drive train in these conditions as the tires are only touching the road half the time Smile This is the whole point of increased speed on these types of roads as at slower speeds you will rattle to death. Good smooth and dry dirt roads the diff lock stays out as you will wind up the transmission quick smart as others have said.

With the diff lock in, the fender tends to 4 wheel drift around corners while with it out it can fish tail a bit more... depends on the thrill you are chasing.

The Lock engage on my Puma is a bit "weak" compared to our old TD5 so the linkage may be a bit out. Need to check

Cheers

MArk
Post #8056 5th Mar 2009 7:33am
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Eduardo



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Regi贸n Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Mark,

We have more less the same problem here with some gravel roads here (in special for those used by heavy forest logging trucks that almost destroy the road corrugating it as you said) under this conditions we feel that the control with the diff lock engaged is better than without it.

Anyway, taking the advice of Glyn I will be more cautious of when I will use the Diff Lock


Cheers! Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

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Post #8079 5th Mar 2009 11:37am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2415

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
I would stick with owners manual instructions on this issue. That is the whole point on having a non-torsen-like centre diff. In my opinion the 110" has enough wheelbase to drive like hell on harsh roads. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #8081 5th Mar 2009 11:56am
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Eduardo



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Regi贸n Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Given a look at the Manual

"The differential should be locked when driving off-road on loose and slippery surfaces."
"The differential should be unlocked for all normal road driving or as soon as a hard grippy surface is reached when driving off-road."

As usual, the problem here is what LR and we considers a normal road driving and loose and slippery surfaces...

Cheers Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge
Post #8082 5th Mar 2009 12:27pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2415

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
how much tire pressure do you use? Anyway, from all 4x4 vehicles I had the chance to drive (88", 109", Suzuki, Terracan, several pick-ups) the long wheelbase LR磗 are far the most stable ones. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #8084 5th Mar 2009 1:00pm
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Fontuin



Member Since: 11 Sep 2008
Location: South Africa
Posts: 29

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Zambezi Silver
Eduardo wrote:
Given a look at the Manual

"The differential should be locked when driving off-road on loose and slippery surfaces."
"The differential should be unlocked for all normal road driving or as soon as a hard grippy surface is reached when driving off-road."

As usual, the problem here is what LR and we considers a normal road driving and loose and slippery surfaces...

Cheers


Loose slippery surface would be ice, snow, gravel even perhaps wet tar, as long as the wheels can slip to make up for any difference in speed between them then you should be fine, I use my CDL and have been using it on gravel roads at 100km/h for over 10 year snow with no problems or even a hint of drive train wind up, the vehicle is far more stable on gravel with CDL locked.

Normal driving would be dry tar or concrete where the wheel can not slip to make up for any differnce in speed between them. Drive train wind up is noticable within a few meters on surface like this if you turn, the vehicle stugles to turn.

I drive a pretty bad track after a section of gravel once a week, I turn my CDL off on the track because it is quite rocky and although it is uneven I have picked up signs of drive train wind up on this section, on the gravel section it is on becuase the gravel is loose from the high speed driving done on it by many vehicles.
Post #8088 5th Mar 2009 1:54pm
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Eduardo



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Regi贸n Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
MK wrote:
how much tire pressure do you use? Anyway, from all 4x4 vehicles I had the chance to drive (88", 109", Suzuki, Terracan, several pick-ups) the long wheelbase LR磗 are far the most stable ones.


As per users manual

30 in the front and 45 in the back if I remember well Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge
Post #8089 5th Mar 2009 2:04pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2415

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Shocked

I rekon 45 psi is stated in the manual. I never used that much, at the most 35 on the highway. Just under 30 on dirt roads. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #8092 5th Mar 2009 3:04pm
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Eduardo



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Regi贸n Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
MK

I also found it high, but I try to stick in the parameters of the users manual (you know, for guarantee issues Wink)

Regards Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge
Post #8095 5th Mar 2009 4:04pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2415

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Which warranty? Your kidneys?

Try with 30 and you`ll have better handling on dirt roads. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #8103 5th Mar 2009 5:24pm
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Sonic3d



Member Since: 28 Jan 2008
Location: Ross on Wye
Posts: 1505

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Stornoway Grey
foz.in.oz wrote:

Or you can remove the broken shaft engage the central diff lock and drive out


Have you ever tried driving a Defender with only front wheel drive offroad Whistle i can tell you it does`nt go much Big Cry


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Post #8105 5th Mar 2009 5:40pm
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Eduardo



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Regi贸n Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
MK wrote:
Which warranty? Your kidneys?

Try with 30 and you`ll have better handling on dirt roads.


MK

In my opinion there is not too much difference between 30 and 45 in the back in bouncing (bounce anyway). But in the front an increase of the pressure is noted inmediately (I put 35 by error instead 30 and was terrible).

Why the manual stated 45 instead of a lower pressure?
Some thought?
May be fuel consumption or something like that?

Anyway I will be with the dealers on Wednesday to see this problem and a noise in the clutch.

Cheers Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge
Post #8109 5th Mar 2009 7:26pm
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