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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Auxiliary Circuit Building
I want to install spotlights, a boomslang type headlight loom, upgraded horn, Work lamp, additional camp lighting and power sockets. Looking for advice on planning the loom. I’m thinking of a positive bus bar in the engine bay with power from the alternator. Then a bank of relays to switch each of the new circuits. Is this a suitable proposal or would a connection in the seat box direct to the starter battery be better? And what about fuses? I realise I will need to fuse each additional circuit both the feed and the power to the component but what about the cable from alternator (or battery) to bus bar? Should that be fused too? Any ideas about best way forward would be most welcome, thank you.
Post #799327 24th Oct 2019 2:35pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
If you are wanting the spots to activate in conjunction with your main beams after the fitting of the boomslang loom I simply used the now spare headlight supply socket to trigger the relay for them whilst taking a fused feed from the alternator. This kept all the circuit for the spots under the bonnet without having to add cables and switches into the cab. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
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Think I might have a problem............
Post #799329 24th Oct 2019 2:56pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20292

United Kingdom 
You definitely want any feeds from the alternator to be fused as close to possible to the source.
Bluesea do some very good bus bars that are well made and will last.
Especially with tinned lugs etc. (I've found Selterm there in the States to be very good).

If you wanted a better headlight solution I would recommend the Land Reiziger loom more than the Boomslang due to having two Relays.
One for the dipped, the other for main.

In mine I swapped the Relays out for Relays with a diode across the coil. (Check pins are correct, on mine the trigger and ground needed swapping around). ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #799353 24th Oct 2019 5:55pm
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Mash wrote:
If you are wanting the spots to activate in conjunction with your main beams after the fitting of the boomslang loom I simply used the now spare headlight supply socket to trigger the relay for them whilst taking a fused feed from the alternator. This kept all the circuit for the spots under the bonnet without having to add cables and switches into the cab.


Thanks Mash. That sounds a very neat solution Thumbs Up
Post #799390 24th Oct 2019 8:50pm
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
custom90steve wrote:
You definitely want any feeds from the alternator to be fused as close to possible to the source.
Bluesea do some very good bus bars that are well made and will last.
Especially with tinned lugs etc. (I've found Selterm there in the States to be very good).

If you wanted a better headlight solution I would recommend the Land Reiziger loom more than the Boomslang due to having two Relays.
One for the dipped, the other for main.

In mine I swapped the Relays out for Relays with a diode across the coil. (Check pins are correct, on mine the trigger and ground needed swapping around).


Thanks for the info and recommendations Steve.

What’s the advantage of the diode equipped relays?
Post #799391 24th Oct 2019 8:52pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
I fitted a positive busbar in the rear of my USW to feed a variety of lights and sockets. I used an off the shelf busbar and mounted it in a plastic box:


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge

The feed cable is from my second battery and is protected by a 60amp fuse:


Click image to enlarge

Feeds from the busbar then go via a local fusebox to the various relays and switches:


Click image to enlarge

I plan to do something similar, although on a smaller scale, at the front to provide a dedicated loom for the headlights Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #799400 24th Oct 2019 9:06pm
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
That looks a very professional set up LRA! Food for thought! Much appreciated, thank you Thumbs Up
Post #799413 24th Oct 2019 10:27pm
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
LandRoverAnorak wrote:



Click image to enlarge



What are the blue components L1-4?
Post #799415 24th Oct 2019 10:33pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
They're latching relays. They're actually due to be swapped out at some point, as they don't work very well with the LR buttons that I'm using. It's the fault of the buttons rather than the electronics, though, but as I'm keen to keep the former another solution is called for Rolling Eyes Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #799434 25th Oct 2019 7:15am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
^^^ Thumbs Up Thank you
Post #799458 25th Oct 2019 10:13am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20292

United Kingdom 
In answer to your question they (Diodes) across the Relay coil would help suppress voltage spikes or fly back voltage spikes up the power source wire. In a Relay they suppress and dissipate. When used in-line forward biased they voltage block return voltage.
Dissipation is better than blocking alone, and is better for relay coils longevity.

Particularly important with more sensitive electronic, as the return voltage spike could cause damage. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️


Last edited by custom90 on 25th Oct 2019 11:48am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #799468 25th Oct 2019 10:54am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Comprehensive and understandable explanation. Thanks Steve Thumbs Up
Post #799472 25th Oct 2019 11:37am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver

Click image to enlarge


LRA, that bright metal plate? Is it stainless steel? And is it an earthing plate? Does it perform satisfactorily bolted to the aluminium wheelarch?
Post #799503 25th Oct 2019 5:08pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
It's a piece of aluminium and yes, it does provide an earth point. It's fixed to the wheel arch with a speed screw and so makes a very good connection. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #799557 25th Oct 2019 9:38pm
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keith



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2211

Scotland 
Very neat and professional job, well done Thumbs Up
Keith
Post #799559 25th Oct 2019 10:04pm
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