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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
BogMonster wrote:
Any idea what the high-low plugs are? I don't think they are the same? Similar sort of thing but they don't have the metal clip.



The high-low switch uses a Sumitomo HW sealed series 3-way female connector (YPC10181).

This is available from Land Rover as YPC10181 - but, without terminals, seals, or terminal retainer, for an extortionate price of around £10.00 Shocked




I can supply both the male and female 3-way connectors from the Sumitomo HW series, complete with terminals, seals and retainer (and cavity blanks, if needed), for a much better price - and, I'm happy to post anywhere in the world. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #747060 23rd Dec 2018 4:10pm
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 400

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
I'm now thoroughly confused about the logic of this circuit...

All the advice is that the clutch switch is normally closed, and opens when the clutch is depressed, which is supported by what the workshop manual says.

Mine does the opposite - tested with a multimeter across the two pins at the switch, it's normally open and closes when the clutch is depressed more than about half an inch, which is the wrong way around...

This appears to be backed up with the BAS tool, which has the 'TCM - Clutch pedal position top of travel' as False when the clutch is released, and True when it is depressed - the opposite to what I would expect to see.

So I disconnected it and bridged across the plug - the pedal becomes like stepping on a landmine - the slightest movement on or off the throttle demonstrates all the backlash in the transmission at once.

Then disconnected and open circuit - the opposite effect - massive rev hang on up-changes (2-3 second delay before the revs start to die back).

I can't see variations in the operation of the circuit in later vehicles (mine's a 2015) - does anybody know any different? ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi
Post #750302 10th Jan 2019 12:09pm
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 400

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Found a new part to test at the dealer, and apparently they are all the same from 2007 on.

The workshop manual is wrong - the switch is normally open, tested across the pins with a meter.

Still can't explain why it shows the wrong way around on the diagnostic, but that's how it works. ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi
Post #750309 10th Jan 2019 12:59pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
ericvv wrote:
custom90steve wrote:

Much better than before, and no gear change Rev hang or change lag like before.


Huh? Gear change rev hang? That’s a 2.2 feature only. The 2.4 never had that.
Eric


Everyone says that but actually whilst it isn't a factory feature of the 2.4 it is a feature all the same. Mine got really bad a while back, lubricating everything in the clutch housing helped. I'm now convinced I need to change (or disconnect) the switch because my rev hang is awful again. As I dip the clutch the revs rise by approx 500rpm from where they were and drop a few seconds later. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #750322 10th Jan 2019 2:17pm
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Hal



Member Since: 04 Jun 2014
Location: Bedford
Posts: 91

United Kingdom 
Hi Ozzie1989

Did you ever get this resolved? My 2.4 2011 s/w has just started doing exactly what you describe - dip clutch, revs go up a few hundred and then down again.

Only seems to happen changing first to second, but i get the feeling that revs don't drop away like they used to in higher gear changes

Anyone else with a 2.4 puma seen this?

Thx

Hal
Post #790318 3rd Sep 2019 6:35pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20436

United Kingdom 
It will be a failing clutch switch.

If your getting backlash with it bridged then you have excessive drivetrain wear, the clutch switch delay / hang masks that wear and tear and if anything giving a drivetrain input that's is not smooth is going to extend and add to drivetrain wear by far.
You must slow down going on to the power when going into gear, also it should be in gear before you apply the power.

I've never had a problem since I have bridged mine, it drives better than ever and oh so much smoother with driver input rather than ECU screwing over every gear change creating unstable on/off irregular torque.
That will definitely increase wear and tear, and make sure going though the gears a pleasure. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪


Last edited by custom90 on 3rd Sep 2019 7:44pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #790336 3rd Sep 2019 7:13pm
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Hal



Member Since: 04 Jun 2014
Location: Bedford
Posts: 91

United Kingdom 
Thanks custom90steve

Does the 2.4 have a clutch switch? I've been through the w/s manual page by page and cant see it.

Any idea where it is? I've had the clutch pedal cover off in the past to grease everything and cant remember seeing anything around there.
Post #790340 3rd Sep 2019 7:20pm
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htb2



Member Since: 02 Nov 2018
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 531

Wales 
If its the same as a TD5 location. its on the output pipe from the clutch master cylinder
Post #790346 3rd Sep 2019 7:30pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20436

United Kingdom 
Yep, the 2.4 has one.
It's located near the bulkhead just to the right of the brake master cylinder, to the left of the coolant expansion tank.
You will see the black plastic, connector with two wires exiting it.

This is a 2.2 motor I think but it is located in the same place on 2.4's too.


Click image to enlarge

As I mentioned previously, you cannot just disconnect it on a 2.4 or 2.2.
You can on a TD5 I believe, but not these. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #790351 3rd Sep 2019 7:51pm
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Hal



Member Since: 04 Jun 2014
Location: Bedford
Posts: 91

United Kingdom 
Thanks!

Found it also on connector c0667r in electrical connector manual

Hal
Post #790386 3rd Sep 2019 8:44pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3310

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Hal wrote:
Hi Ozzie1989

Did you ever get this resolved? My 2.4 2011 s/w has just started doing exactly what you describe - dip clutch, revs go up a few hundred and then down again.

Only seems to happen changing first to second, but i get the feeling that revs don't drop away like they used to in higher gear changes

Anyone else with a 2.4 puma seen this?

Thx

Hal


Last edited by Zed on 3rd Sep 2019 8:50pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #790387 3rd Sep 2019 8:49pm
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90 Dreamer



Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2164

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
What is it supposed to achieve??
Post #790388 3rd Sep 2019 8:50pm
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