Quote:

CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
The clutch pedal position switch is located on the clutch master cylinder.
The clutch pedal position switch is a pressure transducer type. When the clutch is pressed the switch disconnects a ground connection to the ECM, which reduces engine torque.
In the event of a clutch pedal switch failure, there may be some loss of driveability in the form of poor acceleration and
reduced power.

It's a normally closed switch, which is why it needs bridging if unplugged   1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW

custom90steve wrote:

Much better than before, and no gear change Rev hang or change lag like before.

BogMonster wrote:

Thanks, odd that it's shown as normally open in the electrical manual.

Steve, what's it like in low range, and in particular does it do anything to the annoying 'rev lift' that low range brings with it? Mine quite often runs a fast idle, according to Pete it's part of the anti stall logic, and it's bloody annoying...

Did you just chop the wires and join them, or get a plug of some sort and build a proper bridge? Paperclip might do for testing I guess...

blackwolf wrote:

No, it's nothing to do with anti-stall, what you describe is a feature known as idle jack. Its purpose in a nutshell is to keep you alive on very steep descents when otherwise there would be excessive engine braking.

I would be moderately interested to know why you find it "bloody annoying" since in a decade or so and 200k+ miles of TDCi ownership, using the vehicle for what it was designed (on and off road, heavy towing, etc), personally I have never found it a problem.

Nothing you do to the clutch switch will affect it anyway, since the idle jack is switched by software and is activated when the engine ECU detects the appropriate relative engine and road speeds. I can't remember if disconnecting the high/low ration switch makes any difference, I think it may do, but if so you would also retain the high range throttle map in low range in this case.

Interesting - just repeating what Pete Bell said which was quote "the fast idle is part of the anti stall logic".

I find it annoying because when I take my foot off the throttle I want the engine to idle, either to pick its way through or over something at minimum revs, or drop down a slope or into a ditch as slowly as possible. If I want 1100rpm or any other rpm up or down hill, I can use the throttle to get it, as long as the engine does what the driver and throttle tell it to, 1100rpm increases your minimum speed by about 25% which really isn't that handy at times. It isn't the end of the world but I just wish I could stop it because it adds nothing (for me) and takes away some element of control in situations where you really want it, and I say that having not really tested the capabilities to the full yet. I accept that this is only relevant to probably 1% of owners.

I don't think I'll die off road, managed not to in a dozen or so different Land Rovers without it over 30 odd years

It's such a pity there isn't just the option to configure the ECU to switch the 'features' on and off in some sort of 'expert mode', as the Puma with a remap is definitely growing on me. I'd love to have the ability to generate and tweak maps as I'd spend ages getting the last 1% exactly how I wanted it... ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi