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| Myo Member Since: 13 May 2012 Location: Cape Town Posts: 30   
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So trying to avoid the extortionist cost of an aux 2 switch, is the heated seat switch circuit the same? Do I just need to change the front cap to use it as my light bar switch ( it cost £8-9 compared to the aux2 £50!!
 ) |
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7th Feb 2014 9:47pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 501  
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The Puma heated seat switch YUF500150LNF will work, but it's a live-switching switch (the Defender Aux-2 switch YUG000540LNF is an earth-switching switch)
It just means that you have to wire your lamps to suit the switch - Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply Pin 2 - Dash illumination Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth) Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory Pin 5 - Earth e.g. -  Click image to enlarge You can replace the heated seat switch's front with any other, including a modified blank (modified by drilling a 2.5mm hole in its front, to accomodate the tell-tale LED's lense) - Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge . Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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7th Feb 2014 10:59pm |
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| Myo Member Since: 13 May 2012 Location: Cape Town Posts: 30
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Ha, done and working!
Thanks Paul  your diagram is idiot proof. |
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2nd Mar 2014 10:03pm |
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| Northernremedy Member Since: 18 Aug 2014 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 122 
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Hey gang!!!! Proper novice here, my new 110 has the spotlights in the a bar and wired in to the proper button on the top left dashboard. The weird thing is they don't work, the button doesn't light up with the rest of huge dashboard which made me think it is a fuse. I've checked fuses but can't obviously identify which it would be, am I going down the right thread as to why the button wouldn't light up or might there be another reason?
Thanks in advance! |
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18th Aug 2014 6:08pm |
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| GREENPUMA Member Since: 12 Feb 2010 Location: devon Posts: 17 
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Is this any help?
http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/2174081/de...ght-switch |
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3rd Sep 2014 1:17pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 501
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Is your switch actually wired-up 
If so, has it been done correctly
It should be wired as per my diagram, which I posted earlier in this thread, here - http://www.defender2.net/forum/post6360.html#6360 Pop the switch out of the dash and take a picture of the connector and its wiring. Post it here, and we'll see how it's been wired. . Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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3rd Sep 2014 2:23pm |
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| dozerman Member Since: 09 Nov 2014 Location: Cheshire Posts: 101 
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Hello - I think it has been touched on in this thread but I'm struggling to find the actual answer (I am pretty stupid to be fair) - is it possible to just buy the aux lamp fascias on their own, to clip on to another suitable switch body? If so, does anyone know what to ask for and who to buy from? Cheers.
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13th Dec 2014 8:21am |
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| CallumB Member Since: 22 Sep 2018 Location: Norfolk Posts: 87 
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Hi, I know this is an old thread but hoping someone can help. I followed the wiring above to hook up an LED camping/work light on the back of my 90 van. I've used a Bearmach BA10299S latch switch and connected it as follows: PIN1 = Power (from the spare purple power cable at the offside rear corner - aux outlet on the tow bar circuit I think) PIN2 = Dash light feed PIN3 = unused PIN4 = power out to LED light (without going through a relay as low amps) PIN5 = earth The LED light works fine, with LED earthed locally, as does dash illumination but the on/warning light is not working. Oddly, I get the same results without the earth on PIN5 connected. Any ideas how to resolve?  |
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12th Jul 2019 1:59pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 501
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The Bearmach switches are a copy of YUG000540LNF, which is an earth-switching switch, wired differently to my diagram above.
It should be wired, as follows - Pin 1 - From the earth side of the Relay (Pin 85) Pin 2 - To Dash Illumination Header (or an adjacent switch) Pin 3 - Not Used (but connected internally to Pin 4) Pin 4 - To Dash Earth Header (or an adjacent switch) Pin 5 - Live from Accessory side of Relay (Pin 87), for 'tell-tale' orange LED See - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic68044.html Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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12th Jul 2019 4:02pm |
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| CallumB Member Since: 22 Sep 2018 Location: Norfolk Posts: 87
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Hi PaulMc, thanks but might have to give up on this - sounds like it's beyond my school boy understanding of powering a light and switching it
 . I've no idea where this relay is* or how to pick up pins 85 or 87 or how that eventually feeds power the the light. I've run 3 wires back from the light and spare power all the way to the switch in the dash. If you or anyone could give an idiots guide on what wires to pick up and run I'd appreciate it.  Otherwise I'll put it down to experience! 
*no interest in running from main beam or exterior lights as this is for a work light to be used when ignition off - hence thinking using the spare purple in the rear was the answer. |
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12th Jul 2019 4:18pm |
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| CallumB Member Since: 22 Sep 2018 Location: Norfolk Posts: 87
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EDIT. Didn't see page 2 of your link - answer is to keep wired as I have it but use different switch?!
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12th Jul 2019 4:30pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 501
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If you're using this switch to switch an LED lamp, then you probably don't have a relay - in which case, this switch isn't really suitable.
If you have the LED lamp permanently connected to the live, and use this switch to switch the lamp's earth - that will work - BUT, the Orange tell-tale on the switch won't work, as it requires a separate input on the switch's Pin 5 If you ran this from the LED lamp, the tell-tale would be on all the time. There are two ways around this problem - Option 1. Change the switch body for a live-switching switch, and swap over the bearmach engraved switch front. Suitable switches, are - Defender TD5/Discovery-2 heated seat switch Defender Puma heated seat switch Defender HRW switch Discovery-2 cruise control switch The Defender Puma heated seat switch YUF500150LNF is the cheapest, at around £10 This is a live-switching switch, which uses the Black connector. Wiring for YUF500150LNF is, as follows - Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply Pin 2 - Dash illumination Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth) Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory (LED lamp) - the switch's Orange tell-tale is powered when this terminal is live Pin 5 - Earth Option 2. Modify your exist switch's internal layout, to turn it into a live-switching switch. This is quite easy, and requires a small cut in the internal circuit layout, and a loop of cable from Pin 4 to Pin 5 in the Black connector. Genuine YUG000540LNF, as supplied ( switch opened up) - Click image to enlarge Modified, with position of cut in circuit shown in Red - Click image to enlarge By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4 The revised circuit would be as follows - Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Main Beam/Dipped Beam/Side Lights/Permanent Live (as applicable) Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination Pin 3 - Switch Earth (for indicator LEDs) Pin 4 - Switched Live output to Accessory or Relay Pin 5 - Live in from Pin 4 (for Orange 'tell-tale' LED) . Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' Last edited by PaulMc on 12th Jul 2019 5:20pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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12th Jul 2019 4:40pm |
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| CallumB Member Since: 22 Sep 2018 Location: Norfolk Posts: 87
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MUCH APPRECIATED PAULMC
 Thanks for taking time to explain that - very thorough. I've ordered the heated seat one. I'll bear in mind my earth and live switching in future! |
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12th Jul 2019 4:45pm |
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| Mooose Member Since: 18 Jul 2021 Location: Melbourne Posts: 1  
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Hi PaulMc,
I have a question about converting the YUG000540LNF switch.. I can't for the life of me work out how to open it.. However, I have noticed with my switch, that the PCB tracks are visible at the bottom.. and apart from being back-to-front, the PCB tracks look exactly the same as the ones in your photos. Did your switch have a double-sided PCB tracks, or have I got some kind of newer version where the tracks are on the bottom of the PCB? I can see the two holes that you mention to cut between. Does this look different to yours? Click image to enlarge Do you think scratching the tracks that are visible through these "access holes" would work, without having to open the switch? Mmm. Maybe I'll just try it! Thanks. |
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18th Jul 2021 6:51am |
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