 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Maintenance of drive flanges |
 
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441  
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Yep, that's about it. Keep them greased and it also slows down the wear on the splines
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1st May 2019 9:44am |
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| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1317  
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I think that's the long and short of it.
Worth getting a correct sized tap though to clean out the threads as the bolts are held in place with threadlock and are prone to shearing on reassembly if the bolt and hole threads aren't cleaned. Either buy new pre-coated threadlock bolts, or use some threadlock from a tube, or use spring washers. The old Series vehicles used spring washers and in all the years I ran them, I never had a drive flange bolt work loose. When I first checked my rears (only 15,000 miles/ 2 1/2 years old) I was shocked how much red dust there was in the rear plastic end covers and the fact that there appeared to be zero lubrication. I used multipurpose grease though, not copperslip. Not sure which grease is best for the job, but anything has got to be better than nothing. At the time, there was still plenty of life left in the drive flanges so I didn't replace the ends or the shafts. I think I caught them early enough. I used to pull the caps off at service time and pack fresh grease into the splines. A couple of years later, before I sold mine, for peace of mind and to try and reduce the amount of drivetrain slop, I was going to replace the rear halfshafts with the one piece design and use socket cap screws/split washers in place of the bolts/threadlock. But never got round to doing it. |
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1st May 2019 9:49am |
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| Greadh Member Since: 17 Feb 2016 Location: North West Posts: 97 
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thanks for confirming, now you mention it grease is probably better than copper slip (unless anyone can correct me). doing breakpads soon so will 'maintain' the flanges at the same time:-)
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1st May 2019 10:11am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17448 
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From an engineering standpoint this isn't very good practice, since a tap will almost certainly end up over-sizing the thread. You are better off using a thread chaser. If you don't have such a thing a substitute can easily be made by running a thin cutting disk up the length of an M10 bolt. When chasing the threads, make sure that you stop frequently to clear the dislodged gunge from the hole. Personally I never use any form of thread lock on these bolts, since in my view it is wholly unnecessary and only leads to problems. |
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1st May 2019 12:47pm |
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| Greadh Member Since: 17 Feb 2016 Location: North West Posts: 97
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thanks for the suggestions, I will do just that. |
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1st May 2019 1:46pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2244 
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I too have never felt the need to use thread locker on drive flange bolts nor had them come loose, I just make sure the threads are clean and torque them up to 65NM. Bolts loosening are often the result of over tightening and stretched bolts.
If the vehicle is new to you then consider using new bolts on the drive flanges and start with a known clean sheet. Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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1st May 2019 2:40pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907 
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I used motorcycle aerosol chain lube on my drive flanges. It goes in very easily and once the solvent evaporates, you're left with a decent coating on the splines.
However I've now changed the rears for the early Discovery one piece ones which is a doddle to do and gets rid of half the potential priblems. |
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1st May 2019 3:50pm |
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