 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > wiper wheel box :'( |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391   
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I came across those a couple of days ago and wondered much the same. You can buy an awful lot of genuine ones for the price of one of those!
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3rd Jan 2019 7:30pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282  
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Removing the dash really isn't as bad as people think, I've done it a few times.
One thing I always do is bag the bolts and screws, and write on the bag their exact location, tying them to the part where I can too. Having done it before I reckon I can get the whole dash out in 30mins now, maybe took me an hour the first time going slow. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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5th Jan 2019 7:06pm |
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1039 
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Take every screw out you see and take a picture of the screw and where it's coming from ( ie take the picture as you're removing it to get an idea.
It isn't a difficult job and with taking pics, it'll be out within 25 minutes easily. Remember, defenders are designed by their nature to be easily fixed, repaired and stripped. Don't think it's difficult, it really isn't  |
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5th Jan 2019 7:54pm |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233 
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Thanks Mata I've already bought new wheelbases and an inner cable and it is marked up as Bearmach parts. I'm not sure of the quality but they look well made to me. I wondered about the outers but these do not seem to be as available. I will have to assess whether these need replacing when I get them all out. I think I will go the whole hog and remove the dash completely, it seems to be worth the effort to reduce the damage to hands and wrists. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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5th Jan 2019 10:05pm |
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| Nitroneil Member Since: 05 Mar 2019 Location: Stirling Posts: 132 
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 Guess what I have arriving Friday, yip a pair of wiper gearboxes. So I will see how I get on Sat. Any hints in addition to those above would be great (its genuine LR boxes)
Thanks Neil |
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6th Mar 2019 10:38pm |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233
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Good luck with it. Just take your time and take lots of pics of where the cable looms are routed as it's easy to foget and route them differently when you reassemble. My wiper cable outers were good so didn't have to replace them. Use plenty of grease up the tubes and on the new cable.
You will need to remove the steering wheel. I didn't use a puller but some heave thumps with a lump hammer on the back of the steering wheel did it bit leave the nut on a few turns to stop the wheel flying off. Its best to disconnect the battery in case you short something out but I did mine live. Give me a shout if you hit a snag, Imay be able to help . I'll keep looking at email notifications. John "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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6th Mar 2019 11:39pm |
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674  
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I use a syringe loaded with grease (fingers would also work) to lubricate the wheel boxes prior to fitting and the run the worm drive through a few times adding a little grease to ensure it’s all well lubricated. Whilst the dash is out I would recommend the fitting of twin washers 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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7th Mar 2019 1:41am |
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| Nitroneil Member Since: 05 Mar 2019 Location: Stirling Posts: 132
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Well thats it sorted, pretty straight forward apart from the heating ducts. Those plastic screw/plug things are a real pain. All back together with Genuine gearboxes, running sweet. One of the old gears had worn away, the drive wire was fine though, cleaned up, greased and back in. Did take about 4.5 hours, not rushing and included a search about removing gearstick, which is stupidly simple. Left steering wheel on though. Posts here were a great help too, thanks.
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9th Mar 2019 3:02pm |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233
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I'm surprised you managed without taking off the steering wheel. Conversely I didn't remove the gear stick as I didn't that was necessary. I wanted the steering wheel off anyway as I needed to reset the indicator cancel position that had been offset during a previous garage repair of the ignition switch. I found that the peg that engages in the cancelling ring has a rubber sleeve over it that had split so not only was the cancel not symmetrical either side from straight ahead there was also steering rotation before the peg started moving. I added some heat shrink sleeve over the rubber coated peg and it has made indicator cancel so much better. "You are never to old to learn something new"
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17th Mar 2019 6:52pm |
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| Nitroneil Member Since: 05 Mar 2019 Location: Stirling Posts: 132
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i did have the guages and steering cowl off and that gave me enough room to work at gearbox, had to remove some heater duct but managed. Really didnt want to completely remove dash. Usually find if steering is out of staight its the balljoint at the steering bars that needs adjusted. Unless of course someone has had it off before and put it on squint.
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17th Mar 2019 11:22pm |
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