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Jonnyfive

Member Since: 18 Dec 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 25

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver

Clutch switch

I’ve got a replacement clutch switch, will I need to bleed the clutch after putting new one on?

17th Nov 2018 1:07pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5699

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

No.

17th Nov 2018 1:25pm

Jonnyfive

Member Since: 18 Dec 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 25

Thanks

17th Nov 2018 2:28pm

lrmaniac

Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Lisboa
Posts: 762

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green

Retrieving this topic... Been having that problem, engine revs go up as I engage clutch between gears...

After reading some posts trying to sort the problem I believe it's the clutch switch... Have a new one already to replace...

Reading landy andy reply saying it's not necessary to bleed the circuit, I have a doubt: Is this (pic below) supposed to be normal? I have flui on the switch? Despite this, it's not necessary to bleed the circuit? should there be fluid on the switch?

Click image to enlarge Regards
Joao

'10 Land Rover Defender 110 CC
'08 BMW F800GS
'64 SIIA Forward Control
'69 SIIA 109 ZA CKD
_____________________________________________
You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.

24th Jan 2019 2:22pm

Jonnyfive

Member Since: 18 Dec 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 25

I did not see any on the electric side of things when I replaced my switch and you don’t need to bleed the clutch.

24th Jan 2019 7:14pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

Shouldn't be clutch fluid on that plug and socket, you might find that is the issue you've had with it and not the clutch switch it's self.
As it stands it's probably shorting the contacts and or causing all sorts of issues.

I would clean and completely dry all contacts and plug bad socket. You may find it's cured even without the new part.

Worth trying...

Seems to me like someone may have disconnected the switch, spilt clutch fluid over it with a top up.
And instead of, cleaning and drying it before reconnecting it they shoved it back on and hoped no one would notice!

Another option is just bridge the clutch switch instead... But that's personal choice and to do so you'd need 2pole J.P.T. Connectors, and bridge the female LR plug.
I run mine bridged all the time and much prefer it. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

24th Jan 2019 7:43pm

lrmaniac

Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Lisboa
Posts: 762

as far as I'm aware the clutch fluid hasn't been toped up, or opened...

but I'll try to clean it and plug it again...it's worth trying...

If I bridge the circuit and it works, means that the switch is ok?

I've had the circuit bridged once, but don't like it... great to drive, but too much stress on the diff and transmission, too much clunks and bangs

Regards
Joao

'10 Land Rover Defender 110 CC
'08 BMW F800GS
'64 SIIA Forward Control
'69 SIIA 109 ZA CKD
_____________________________________________
You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.

24th Jan 2019 9:04pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

If you want the clutch switch then it’ll need replacing. But try cleaning it up a bit first as mentioned and dry.

You shouldn’t have any issues with it if it was bridged with the trans, if you do then there would be excess play in the drivetrain. I found that with worn DM’s and prop UJ’s.

But, everyone to their own and how they’d like it.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

24th Jan 2019 9:17pm

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