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Jas



Member Since: 08 Dec 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 23

fitting alloy wheels
Hi

When fitting alloys wheels, which bits do you apply anti-seize compound to i.e studs etc?

Thanks

Jas
Post #73805 1st Jun 2011 10:14pm
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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
The dealer put it round the hub that's all.
Post #73807 1st Jun 2011 10:18pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5038

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
mating surface only not the threads Mike
Post #73809 1st Jun 2011 11:07pm
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Maverick



Member Since: 08 Mar 2008
Location: Inverurie!
Posts: 261

Scotland 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Not the threads? Why is that? Ben

Rebuilt 1996 black/white Defender 90 300 TDi
Post #73814 1st Jun 2011 11:55pm
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
Reducing what is basically friction fooks the correct torque up seen one or two very loose nut/bolts on wheels because of copper slip not nice
Post #73816 2nd Jun 2011 5:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17451

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Whilst there has always been controversy about whether or not the threads of the studs/nuts should be dry or lubricated, the surfaces of the nut which contact the wheel (ie the cone, the outer circuference, and the flange/washer) should be smeared with copper grease, mainly to prevent corrosion between the wheel and the nut.

Correct torques for fasteners are generally based on the assumption that the fastener is not lubricated.

Having said that, I have always applied a smear of copperslip to my wheelnuts to every vehicle I have owned, and have always torqued the nuts correctly (which generally means that they are nothing like as tight as people tighten them by hand), and have never, ever, had a wheelnut come loose. This has been on Series One, 2, 3, Defender, and Discovery 2 vehicles with alloy and steel wheels, as well as various lesser vehicles. One the whole you are less likely to have nut/stud problems if you do lubricate than if you don't.

The only narrow shave I ever had was on a Series One when I tightened both front wheels up fingertight only, lowered the jacks, and forgot to torque them down. I then drove about 5 miles with no problems at all before remembering they were fingertight only. They didn't come loose, and there was no knocking, nor any damage at all. Try that with dry nuts!
Post #73844 2nd Jun 2011 8:34am
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5038

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
you generally dont lubricate the threads - in all the LRs i have owned i havent ever seen issues with the threads - but have the wheel to hub mating surface. Mike
Post #73883 2nd Jun 2011 4:01pm
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