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galawaygreen



Member Since: 16 May 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 132

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
clunking gear change and lots of other issues
some advice needed please

after a few months of new puma ownership and trying to get to establish if this is an issue.

2nd gear change notchy and clunkly at best 2nd to 3rd sometimes the same, how i pull the gearstick seems to have an impact (crazy is there a right and wrong way to do this ?)
big clunking noise coming from gear box when changing any gear sounds bit like a new uj needed but cannot find any play when i checked.
is it normally to have free play when rotating the front prop about 20mm each way does not seem to be from the uj but play at gear box. rear prop has no play at all.

all under warrenty but do not want to look a complete idiot when i speak to the dealer.
going in to talk about this issue
leaking footwells and the other below

rust bubble on roof
corrosion on foot step rear
corrosion on side steps both
corrosion on bulkhead

car is only 8 months old!! Big Cry

sad thing is all this is considered normal Exclamation
Post #73649 31st May 2011 9:09pm
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JASPERTHEHORSE



Member Since: 29 Apr 2011
Location: Durham
Posts: 49

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Welcome to Defender ownership.

The gearbox is notoriously rattly and clunky. If you had ever driven a TD5 version you would be able to draw a good comparison of ease of use in the puma. To make the clutch easier on the leg muscles they made the clutch plate lighter with more spring assistance with a net result of the box feeling a bit soft for the car. It seems very hit and miss if you get a good un or a duffa. Ive got one customer who is on his second gearbox and third transfer box. Hes convinced that the geometry is out of line but nonetheless he loves the damm thing to bits.

Leaky footwells? believe me when I say that they are a million times better than they have ever been. You will never ever get a pure watertight seal on a defender, its just not possible due to the method of construction. Plenty of TD5 owners will testify to having a pint of rainwater dumped in their laps when going round corners on rainy days.

Corrosion? Yep it comes pretty much as standard from the factory. Especially on the bolt on bits. Mind Im surprised to hear about a corrosion bleb on the roof. Most certainly NOT normal.

In short. Defenders are 1970's technology somehow exsisting in a very modern world and regretably this is a big reason why we are losing our present model in the very near future for ever. If you have the opportunity, try and book a factory tour and prepare to be amazed when you see how the T5 chassis is assembled versus the army of humans who cobble defenders together, and I mean cobble together.

I dont know, we just love them to bits and seem to accept there shortcomings but theres still no need to live and put up with duff mechanical bits though.
Post #73710 1st Jun 2011 9:30am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Re: clunking gear change and lots of other issues
galawaygreen wrote:
some advice needed please

after a few months of new puma ownership and trying to get to establish if this is an issue.

2nd gear change notchy and clunkly at best 2nd to 3rd sometimes the same, how i pull the gearstick seems to have an impact (crazy is there a right and wrong way to do this ?)
big clunking noise coming from gear box when changing any gear sounds bit like a new uj needed but cannot find any play when i checked.
is it normally to have free play when rotating the front prop about 20mm each way does not seem to be from the uj but play at gear box. rear prop has no play at all.

all under warrenty but do not want to look a complete idiot when i speak to the dealer.
going in to talk about this issue
leaking footwells and the other below

rust bubble on roof
corrosion on foot step rear
corrosion on side steps both
corrosion on bulkhead

car is only 8 months old!! Big Cry

sad thing is all this is considered normal Exclamation


Could you post photos for the bulkhead and side steps? Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #73712 1st Jun 2011 9:38am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Re: clunking gear change and lots of other issues
dgardel wrote:
galawaygreen wrote:
some advice needed please

after a few months of new puma ownership and trying to get to establish if this is an issue.

2nd gear change notchy and clunkly at best 2nd to 3rd sometimes the same, how i pull the gearstick seems to have an impact (crazy is there a right and wrong way to do this ?)
big clunking noise coming from gear box when changing any gear sounds bit like a new uj needed but cannot find any play when i checked.
is it normally to have free play when rotating the front prop about 20mm each way does not seem to be from the uj but play at gear box. rear prop has no play at all.

all under warrenty but do not want to look a complete idiot when i speak to the dealer.
going in to talk about this issue
leaking footwells and the other below

rust bubble on roof
corrosion on foot step rear
corrosion on side steps both
corrosion on bulkhead

car is only 8 months old!! Big Cry

sad thing is all this is considered normal Exclamation


Could you post photos for the bulkhead and side steps?


Ah! warranty full usage for corrosion, go to dealer !!! Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #73714 1st Jun 2011 9:39am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Re: clunking gear change and lots of other issues
dgardel wrote:
Ah! warranty full usage for corrosion, go to dealer !!!


Dgardel the warranty only lasts for a certain amount of time and due to the Censored poor quality of certain items you could end up visiting the dealers time and time again to have the same items dealt with. Eventually you will end up with certain items rusting out or having to deal with the issue yourself when warranty expires. Galaway have a look at your headlight bezels, mud flap brackets, wing mirror arms and windscreen hinge blocks whilst you're at it...Yes they are notoriously renowned for rusting. Have a look at the link below! The mechanical issues are not normal allthough common and the dealers should sort it for you.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic6793.html?highlight= If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #73718 1st Jun 2011 9:56am
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DefenderOfTheEarth



Member Since: 09 Nov 2010
Location: Cornwall, UK
Posts: 1304

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
I've DIYed a few bits with Waxoyl and/or wire wool Hammerite.

In fact I've got the rear bumper/crossmember looking better than new after some work on it - it was looking pretty sorry for itself. Faded, corroded, etc. Same with the side steps/sliders.

As for the gearbox - currently having a new one (and clutch) fitted at 40k miles. Methinks they might not be the best ever made! Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion.
Post #73719 1st Jun 2011 10:09am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2623

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:
As for the gearbox - currently having a new one (and clutch) fitted at 40k miles. Methinks they might not be the best ever made!


You can say that again! Mine has always been clunky, but after it came back from the parking brake recall, it's now clunking in EVERY gear, when it only used to do it 1-2 and 2-3. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #73721 1st Jun 2011 10:11am
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Fifth Horseman



Member Since: 08 Mar 2011
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 322

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Naks - check the propshaft bolts are tight, I found mine were loose at the transfer box end of the rear propshaft not long after a service.
Post #73725 1st Jun 2011 11:00am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2623

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Fifth Horseman wrote:
Naks - check the propshaft bolts are tight, I found mine were loose at the transfer box end of the rear propshaft not long after a service.


will do. if the propshaft is loose-ish, could it also manifest in the engine revving slightly when in moving in neutral? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #73726 1st Jun 2011 11:08am
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Barry



Member Since: 26 Apr 2011
Location: North East
Posts: 137

United Kingdom 
Naks , I get that thing with the engine revving when in neutral and moving , and when you brake to a stop it goes back to idle... Makes no sense does it , anyone got any idea's ?

Cheers 2011 Defender XS 110 Station Wagon - Rejected
2008 Discovery 3 XS Auto (Gone)
1997 Discovery ES Auto 300TDI (Traded in on a flat bed)
Post #73727 1st Jun 2011 11:21am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2623

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Barry wrote:
Naks , I get that thing with the engine revving when in neutral and moving , and when you brake to a stop it goes back to idle... Makes no sense does it , anyone got any idea's ?


Maybe the clutch is 'biting' a bit, so as soon as the truck moves, the drivetrain picks up and drives the engine? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #73728 1st Jun 2011 11:23am
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Or it's the ecu registering that the vehicle is moving and is employing the anti stall feature.
Post #73743 1st Jun 2011 2:17pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2395

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
It is normal. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #73744 1st Jun 2011 2:27pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Lorryman100 wrote:
Or it's the ecu registering that the vehicle is moving and is employing the anti stall feature.


Yep.

As for clunks, TBH I've never had a Defender or earlier 110, 90 etc that didn't have a certain amount of 'play' in the drivetrain, it's the nature of the beast even to a certain extent from new. Ok there are obviously variations but as components wear the clunks get gradually worse and can be pronounced especially if the driver is used quick car style gearchanges. My wife does not have a 'feel' for any of my Defenders and is guaranteed to produce the most god awful clunks and bangs during every gearchange. Instead of feeling for the next gear she just snaps it in and does very the same with the clutch and throttle - everything is in a rush. I tend to take my time and drive as though it has a crash gearbox, the transmission is a straightforward but somewhat dated design and complains if it's treated like a euro or jap car. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #73747 1st Jun 2011 3:08pm
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Cowpat



Member Since: 11 Apr 2011
Location: Stockbridge, Hampshire
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 
I would agree entirely - gear changes need to be done with mechanical sympathy in mind. Also I find it is best to let the clutch out with little or no throttle applied as you change gear. By using this method you can reduce the driveline shunt to nothing. You simply can't rush the gear changes if you smooth progress!!! 1986 Defender 90 County V8
1997 Overfinch Defender 90 570HSI - Pass anything apart from a petrol pump!
2011 Defender 90 TDCI xs
Best 4x4 by Far!
Post #73748 1st Jun 2011 3:33pm
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