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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670   
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Hi,
Anybody got any top tops for changing the wiring loom for the injectors for the TD5 and cleaning out the wiring? Ive done a few but just wondered what other do. Many thanks Pete |
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20th May 2011 2:52pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391 
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See http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic4426.html
I think all Td5s will suffer from this eventually, and, since the design fault has never been corrected will continue to do so - unless you follow my suggestion in the 5th reply to the above thread. |
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20th May 2011 8:54pm |
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| chiefstoker Member Since: 11 Oct 2010 Location: Weston-super-Mud Posts: 897  
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Just read through that Blackwolf thanks
What is the procedure for disconnecting the ecu? 2005 TD5 90 Hard Top Beer 'n Sex 'n Chips 'n Gravy  |
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20th May 2011 9:48pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391
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I just disconnected the battery first, then unplugged the ECU, as far as I remember.
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20th May 2011 11:03pm |
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| Paul_1978 Member Since: 08 Nov 2009 Location: South Yorkshire Posts: 384 
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I made sure all the injector sockets were clean.
Sprayed each one with contact cleaner, then air, then PTFE lubrication spray. Had no problems, hardest part is the gasket, making sure its all in line. |
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21st May 2011 11:01am |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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Ive got the new injector loom on but still having some problems after a few runs and there is traces of oil in the red plug again, im guessing its whats still in the engine loom. My parts guy reckons i'll need a new engine loom too, what do you guys think? When he has this problem thats what hes does, he cant tell customers to keep coming back every few days for the plug to be sprayed out, but im not bothered if i need to do it everyday as long as it will clear it up in the end and everything returns to normal. Or do i just bite the bullet and get a new engine loom?
Many thanks. Pete. |
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22nd May 2011 7:15pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391
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Check the connector under the cambox for oil. If it is oily your new injector harness is already leaking and you are back to square one. Replace it but this time seal the injector shell fully with sealant. If it is clean then the problem is residual oil migrating from the engine harness. Keep cleaning the ECU connector on a regular basis until it stops.
Have you checked for oil inside the ECU? I had a fair amount of oil inside mine which had to be cleaned. Despite LR saying otherwise it is unlikely that you will need a new engine harness. Once you have stopped oil getting in, it will eventually stop coming out. |
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22nd May 2011 10:24pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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I havent opened my ECU yet, but left it upside down for 2 or 3 hours and not a drop came out so im guessing the oil has not gone that far, but i guess i should split it if i keep getting the problems. Ive done loads of injector harnesses and its always cured it straight away, typical that my own land rover causes the problems lol. Just really wanted to know if anybody could give me a time scale for the oil to come out the engine loom if its going to come out and not cause future problems.
Ive also read about the loom chaffing (more so on discoverys though) in places causing problems and i have a new leak down the gearbox which doesnt look like gear oil and the engine loom runs over the top of where it was leaking from, if it has rubbed through the wire outer then i guess it will leak oil from there too if it will make it to the ECU. I just hate my landy not working 100% right, i use it every day and lost without it. Very tempted to just replace all the way though so i know its all right, i wont ever be selling it so i may as well do it all right, but then i dont have a magic money pot so i dont want to waste money either. Im sure its a feeling a lot of us on here have. Anyway thanks for all the help so far. Pete. |
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22nd May 2011 11:37pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391
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I don't think that you will get any oil running back out of the ECU unless it is absolutely flooded, which I have never heard happening. On mine, there was really just a small amount on the pcb in the vicinity of the connector. In theory the connector is sealed, but I guess that given enough time capilliary action can take the oil through.
When I sorted mine, I checked the ECU end of the the engine harness once a week afterwards and by the fourth time there was no visible trace of oil coming out. In the 90,000 miles or so since I haven't checked it but haven't had any problems either. When I initially disconnected the ECU for the first time (prior to changine the harness) the connector was swimming in oil, and there were drops of oil on the plastic tray under the ECU - there really was a lot of oil that had come out, to say I was surprised is an understatement. I remain convinced however that the secret of a permanent solution is to ensure that no oil can get inside the connector shell at the end of the injector harness. LR has completely missed the point about this leak; there is no doubt that on my Discovery (which LR insist was built with the "modified" harness and thus should never get the oil egress problem) the problem was caused by oil entering the connector shell, finding its way down the connector pins and subsequently tracking down the cores of the the individual wires to the ECU. It was not leaking past the O-rings on the outside of the connector, which seems to be what the original service bulletin suggests. Once inside the wire cores it will not leak out anywhere else (unless you have sever chafing to the harness) since it can only escape where there is no insulation. In effect each signal wire becomes a little hosepipe. |
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23rd May 2011 8:14am |
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| mattlab Member Since: 16 May 2011 Location: suffolk Posts: 143 
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now its a while ago since i had a td5 but when i first got it i had the oil in the ecu,i too enquired about fixing the problem and was told new harness and loom was the way to fix it, now figuring that the new parts could only be better sealed i figured i could do the same, so,
i disconnected the harness from ecu and injector harness, lifting it up i concockted a funnel on the top of the harness and poured in brake cleaner, i remember leaving this for a good day or so and maybe topping up if required and catching the cleaner at the ecu end in a pot or rag, now this did take a while to travel down the harness (as does the oil) but i did get all the oil out,i then remember connecting my air line to it to see if i could blow out any excess (cant remember if this helped but i did`nt do any harm) then cleaned the ecu and as i could see the oil was getting through the plug from the injector harness to the ecu loom i opened up the plugs and sealed with a good oil resistant silicone sealer. put it all back together and kept checking it and after owning it for a further 2 years before i sold it there was still no sign of oil, no new injector harness or ecu loom. now im sure i`ll get answers as to why this will not work but all i can say is it worked for me and would certainly do the same again. hope this is of some help. LIFE`S TOO SHORT TO DRIVE A BORING VEHICLE |
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23rd May 2011 9:20am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391
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That is why it worked - you fixed the problem! |
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23rd May 2011 11:50am |
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| Paul_1978 Member Since: 08 Nov 2009 Location: South Yorkshire Posts: 384
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When I changed mine, the oil was present for a few weeks afterwards.
I kept on spraying the red plug with contact cleaner, the alcohol type. The oil just ran out, left the plug out into some blue roll to soak it up, kept on doing this and the oil stopped. But as the fix is just that, a fix, it will come back. TD5 alive on there web site recomend to change the loom every few years, just one of those things i guess. Giving it a good clean will help, give it a try. The other bit of the loom is a bloody right price! |
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23rd May 2011 11:53am |
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| Arfer Member Since: 23 May 2011 Location: Brighton Posts: 1
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I had oil under the drivers seat and of course it was from the injector harness. I took the injector harness off and completely cleaned and degreased the plug end a number of times until completely dry. Then took the little tab off the socket where the wires go into - it just pings off, blew it all out with an airline. When bone dry I filled it up with Arlydite, pushed the little tab back on, put grease around the around the plug on the O ring before pushing back on and a week later no sign of oil coming out.
Why waste money it was only leaking. |
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23rd May 2011 9:15pm |
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| Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 609 
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You should change the injector loom every three years, treating it as a service item. It only costs around £45 for the parts, and takes only 15 minutes to change, so well worth doing.
As mentioned above, if oil has penetrated into the actual engine loom, cleaning it down with electrical cleaner (on a COLD engine) will clean it up. The oil migrates down the 7 injector wires (5 x yellow, 2 x brown) to the engine management RED plug. If the red plug as filled with oil, chances are the oil has started to back feed up the rest of the engine loom. If left un-noticed for a long time, this can poison the whole loom, in some cases causing all kinds of odd ball engine faults. Check the plugs to various engine sensors to check for the presence of oil. If it's got all the way to the air flow meter, ambient pressure sensor, Crank position sensor, then it's probably a good idea to change the engine loom. It's not an exact science though, as I have seen cars that run just fine like this! Oil entering into the engine management is common, but is often no more than a trace that will not cause any harm. Certainly not worth butchering the lid off for!!! Regards, Gary. |
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24th May 2011 7:51pm |
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