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Merlin

Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 981

Electric Window Stopped Working

Drivers door window won't go down. Went up then nothing.

I've read all the posts about the wires in the door jam breaking and I've checked the voltages against the values given in the relevant posts, but I can't find the fault.

What's next to check?

Peter

PS repaired the red and blue wires in the past.

23rd Jun 2018 12:08pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

I just replaced the switch on mine, if I held it in it was smoking and didn't feel as positive as it should. Window has been fine since.

They're about £25 from Land Rover.

23rd Jun 2018 12:33pm

Merlin

Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 981

Strange you should say that. My switch went 'intermittent' a few weeks ago and I changed it out. I'm tempted to buy a new motor but that is expensive for a 'poke and hope' fix. Peter

23rd Jun 2018 1:19pm

Tdi4

Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey

The other sides works?

If that is the case just start to switch parts. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover

23rd Jun 2018 1:31pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20299

Before you spend anything just bridge the switch once removed.
If it works it’s the switch, if it doesn’t then the issue is elsewhere.

You don’t really want to buy one if it’s unknown if it works or not. 👍🏻 ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

23rd Jun 2018 1:43pm

Merlin

Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 981

I've swopped the left and right switches and the fault stays with the RH window. I've even looked at the fault codes but is seems that it isn't something that has codes. Peter

23rd Jun 2018 2:03pm

Tdi4

Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Bit more work but switch the motor as well.

Then you know for sure if it is the motor or some problem in the wiring/fuse/earth a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover

23rd Jun 2018 2:28pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

custom90steve wrote:
Before you spend anything just bridge the switch once removed.
If it works it’s the switch, if it doesn’t then the issue is elsewhere.

You don’t really want to buy one if it’s unknown if it works or not. 👍🏻

You could even connect the motor direct to a battery with a couple of bits of wire and see if it runs.

Quote:
I've even looked at the fault codes but is seems that it isn't something that has codes. Peter

There's no body control unit on a Defender so windows are just simple electrics.

23rd Jun 2018 2:37pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20299

Might be worth continuity testing the wiring between the door rubbers with all the power shut down.
The motors don't tend to fail but it certainly is posssible, many times it is a broken wire or connection at fault. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

23rd Jun 2018 3:48pm

Merlin

Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 981

Good idea, a job for tomorrow. Peter

23rd Jun 2018 4:30pm

Bug

Member Since: 03 Mar 2016
Location: Hayling Island
Posts: 19

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey

Can the switch be removed without taking the central console out? My fuse is OK so I'm thinking what the easiest option is - work from the switch out or from the motor in.

30th Dec 2021 1:24pm

Bug

Member Since: 03 Mar 2016
Location: Hayling Island
Posts: 19

Disregard my previous question - the switch is easy to replace, and it was the switch that was duff. Replacement on order.

30th Dec 2021 5:27pm

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