 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Ramps |
 
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720   
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A couple of bits of railway sleeper work fine. You don’t need to lift a defender far to make lots of room underneath.
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22nd May 2018 6:48am |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565 
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 - never thought of that! |
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22nd May 2018 7:19am |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785 
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Or for easier storage and manoeuvring on your own - four 6 inch breeze blocks with some 4 × 2 timber to make them easier to drive up
2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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22nd May 2018 7:23am |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785
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Sorry, missed the bits part of railway sleeper
 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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22nd May 2018 7:24am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17418 
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I was brought up in the school that believed you should never use breeze blocks, bricks, or any material like that, since they they can crumble and kill you. Timber is good, however, since it doesn't crumble.
It is useful for many purposes to have a supply of sawn blocks of regular size to build cribbing. |
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22nd May 2018 8:31am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Doc P
I agree with the comments so far... For general 'easy to get under work', I took 4 'standard' Metal Ramps, added some extra metal work, base level cross elements to prevent splaying and to allow the metal ramps to engage with wooden base blocks, these also 'grip' better on our gravel hard standing area.  Click image to enlarge On top of these Ramps I added wider run up ramps, which were old Pipe transporter spacers, which add a little extra height and help with the 'progressive' drive up... stop at the 4th indent! I went the extra step when applying Dinitrol of lifting the Defender off each Ramp, reversing the rear two Ramps so that they face inwards (matching the front Ramps) then resting the whole Land Rover on a combination of Oak Sleeper Blocks and 4 smaller Oak Blocks 'profiled' to engage with the Axle load points. Click image to enlarge Over all this raise the Defender just short of 0.5M and with carful placement of all elements the only real movement was within the suspension elements. Good Luck... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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22nd May 2018 9:02am |
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| Ads90 Member Since: 16 Jun 2008 Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds Posts: 809 
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^ That looks.... scary!
Best be safe and do it properly:
[/img] |
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22nd May 2018 10:25am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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back at you...
Click image to enlarge (your's is worse than mine...  ) SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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22nd May 2018 10:34am |
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| Ads90 Member Since: 16 Jun 2008 Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds Posts: 809
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I'm guessing that's the automatic jacking feature in the event of hub failure? All ready to work on. Very clever. |
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22nd May 2018 10:54am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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auto jacking is possible...
Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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22nd May 2018 11:01am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Yes whole ones are somewhat heavy. Although if you had space you could build a permanent ramp out of them. even double stack them.
A couple of bits about 2ft long do the job well. If you cut them with the chainsaw at a 45 degree angle it gives you two bits with a nice lead up ramp. The problem with the drive up metal ramps is the stop bar at the ends of them isn't really big enough for a Defender, so there is a risk you'll drive straight off the back of them. |
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22nd May 2018 2:27pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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You could probably use concrete padstones to 'drive' on to. They won't crumble, they're designed to rest RSJ's onto, it's more likely your drive way would crumble under them. But then again they're really heavy and expensive compared to wood so what's the point. I'd never use concrete as an axle stand though, the concentrated pressure could easily split the concrete. |
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22nd May 2018 2:37pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888  
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Some spare wheels/tyres and some bridging ladders to drive up ?
Click image to enlarge http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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22nd May 2018 4:16pm |
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| Craig-C Member Since: 25 Aug 2017 Location: Staffs Posts: 40 
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This is a the father in law doing his maintenance many years ago. Just a spade under the tyre. Not recommended
Click image to enlarge FFRR TDV8 sold PUMA 90 :0[==]0: 90 TD5 CSW XS MX5 (NC) BMW 320 BMW 1200 GS Adventure SUZUKI HAYABUSA |
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26th May 2018 9:43pm |
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