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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
Yeh who do we need to avoid obviously get in touch with them 1 st give em a rolloking then tell us.
Post #707297 15th May 2018 12:30pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8026

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I was thinking of doing mine myself or getting it applied this summer who did yours I don't want to go to them Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #707304 15th May 2018 1:17pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Personally, having read the threads on the subject, I would DIY (as I did) or go to Zagato... Lots of problems/issues apparent with other suppliers... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #707305 15th May 2018 1:19pm
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
I guess the OP may have just posted to gauge people’s opinions on the quality of workmanship to see if that’s the norm with a Dinitrol application, perhaps he may wish to deal direct with the company to get a resolution rather than going the “name and shame” route, his choice at the end of the day and if he wishes to say who did the work again his choice. Just my thoughts on the subject Whistle 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90
Post #707357 15th May 2018 6:03pm
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Rosco



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Burntwood
Posts: 1833

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Another vote for Zagato. Thumbs Up

Just been out to check on the condition of mine, which is now 3 years since it was done, used daily in all weathers, and it still looks great. Odd little spot here and there but nothing to be concerned about 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone
2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW
Post #707505 16th May 2018 12:59pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
We here in La Suisse get a real working 3 year warranty on Dinitrol treatment. Condition obviously is that application is on a new chassis, or at least on a very recent chassis which still is totally rust free and clean. Mine will be 10 years come September, it had so far an ititial application, plus two resprays in that period. Last respray was now 3 years ago, so it will go back for another respray this summer. The interesting thing is that the cost of a first class professional high quality treatment, nothing less than what Zag(ato) does, costs even less here in expensive (?) Switzerland than many poor workmanship applications in the U.K. Now, if you start from a already (even surface) rusty chassis and then without a very thorough preparation to first neutralise all rust, I can imagine that even a very thorough Dinitrol spray ain’t gonna do wonders.
Eric


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw


Last edited by ericvv on 17th May 2018 4:01am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #707515 16th May 2018 1:31pm
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cecilthecat



Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 24

United Kingdom 
I'll cast my vote for Zagato to as mine it also 3 years old and looks pretty much the same as the day he did it although with a bit of dirt now but no rust Smile
Post #707517 16th May 2018 1:37pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Having done Dinitrol to 5 different Defenders I can certainly say it would be easy to do a quick shoddy job that may look nice when it's first complete.

To be done properly, it takes hours of detailed and monotonous work. The washing and prep work has to be meticulously done, you have to have patience, and do the entire underside with consistent detail. (consistency is a big key).

In a similar way to body and paint work, the end result is directly related to the quality of the prep work that lies under the final finish, as well as the quality of the spray coats. There are a lot of "out of the way" spots on the underside that are difficult to clean and spray, which can go un-finished, and are difficult to see by just bending over and looking at the undercarriage.

Like picking a body / paint shop, ask for referrals and take a close look at several of the vehicles they have previously done, not ones just recently finished but one, two or three years along.

The devil is in the details...


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Click image to enlarge
 it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #707539 16th May 2018 3:46pm
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Lotus_esprit_s1



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Uk
Posts: 201

Thats some pretty abysmal welding by GKN on the rear crossmember closing piece!
Post #707586 16th May 2018 8:29pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Quote:
Thats some pretty abysmal welding by GKN on the rear crossmember closing piece!


I think abysmal would be having it porous with poor penetration, so it's weak. That isn't especially pretty, but I'm not sure I'd call it abysmal, especially as you can't see it unless you lay on the floor. For someone doing a one off job you'd grind it down and clean it up, but it's not especially unusual for a mass produced item.
Post #707609 17th May 2018 12:38am
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sewin elwy



Member Since: 08 Aug 2012
Location: Snowdonia
Posts: 39

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
bpman wrote:
so, who is going to ask first ?

(elephant in the room)


This is a problem and having been involved with land rovers since 1975 I have reached the conclusion that this problem is due to chassis prep prior to painting, like most LR bolt=on's in fact! they are often rusty or covered in oil based protection and are not cleaned well enough for paint to stick! they're all good to look at when new but if it sheds the paint it will shed your rust treatment too!

Over the years I've seen chassis' that are excellent and others that look awful at two or three years old regardless of preventative treatment. Don't despair, yours looks solid and now is the time to rectify. It needs extreme jet washing to clean and remove all lose material, fully dried and then treated with the product of your choice ( don't want to start a row over the options so ill leave it to you) you'll find the result will be much better this time!
Last piece of advice, use a light ultra penetrative option first that will creep into all the joints and give it a chance to settle and creep before applying the tougher final covering. Good few days is best!

Hope this helps and yes it really isn't good enough is it. hit and miss like a 70's Friday night car should be well in the past!
Post #707771 17th May 2018 6:59pm
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Dinatrol assessed the vehicle and reported back :


“It does not look good. It is usually Rejel Automotive who has contact with the treatment centres, Phone: 01234 273388.
The best way to protect a chassis is to use Dinitrol ML in the cavity and as a primer for Dinitrol 4941 underbody protection. The most important thing about using Dinitrol 4941 is that it should be applied in a layer of 500-700µm. Based on the pictures you have submitted, it appears that this is not the case.
You should contact %@%# and ask for an explanation”

I have received a full refund for the work and won’t post on here who the supplier was. I’m hopeful of giving them a second chance at proper preparation followed by a correctly applied treatment. 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #707913 18th May 2018 2:28pm
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Great news you got resolution and it’s alsorted for you Thumbs Up 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90
Post #707917 18th May 2018 2:50pm
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tolley



Member Since: 07 Nov 2011
Location: gloucester
Posts: 1115

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
mines not to good after 2 years after seeing a few marks around the rear chassis , I did a bit of scraping and found rust under the coating .
Post #735964 20th Oct 2018 8:37pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
did mine myself when 1 month old its now 7 years old and pretty much looks as good as the day I did it,

I was very careful to ensure it was totally clean and totally dry before I did it. To be fare I have only done 24k mikes and not done any real off road stuff . DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #735989 21st Oct 2018 5:30am
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