 | Home > My Defender > What Did You Do In Your Defender Today |
 
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512  
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Painted the roof and made all seams and gutters watertight again
 Click image to enlarge Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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29th Apr 2011 6:08am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012 
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Up at 6 AM to continue the chassis/underneath painting with POR-15, now over halfway done, it's taking a long time.
Fitted the new Dixon Bate tow bar after 3 more sprays and rub down in between  POR-15 is OK to paint with BUT Frosts chassis black is terrible stuff, just looks a mess so had to sand down and respray with Plasticote a few times 
Sealed all the windows properly, messy job but needs doing! Dinitrolled inside the front Dumb Irons and bonnet to test what it was like in comparison to Waxoyl - good stuff, highly recommend it 
Washed the spare wheel again to get dirt off
and bought a small bike lock for the bonnet - will stop the opportunist but not the determined but does no harm!
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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29th Apr 2011 4:52pm |
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| DefenderOfTheEarth Member Since: 09 Nov 2010 Location: Cornwall, UK Posts: 1304 
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Rubbed down and Hammerited a few corroded bits. Then realised its a bit glossy so added a coat of matt black. Looking pretty good.
Before that it got fully cleaned - snow foam, polish, quick detail spray. Looks pretty good. Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion. |
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29th Apr 2011 7:25pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 
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lets see then 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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29th Apr 2011 7:30pm |
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| 200TDi Member Since: 28 Feb 2011 Location: SW Scotland Posts: 11
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"What Did You Do In Your Defender Today?"
nothing, I haven't got it yet............................................
Facebook Profile Flickr Photos |
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29th Apr 2011 7:37pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
Fitted a new Alpine head unit and separate bluetooth module, took me 4 hours to wire it all in
. Just the amp and speakers to do now  |
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29th Apr 2011 8:09pm |
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| 110SEB Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Essex, England Posts: 1444 
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What did I do?
Nothing. But she was ready to drive to Capetown at the drop of a hat and eff me I love it. |
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29th Apr 2011 8:13pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748  
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Interesting. I was thinking of using chassis coat black as well 
Does it not dry a nice gloss finish then? And how does the POR15 dry, is it a rock hard finish? |
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29th Apr 2011 8:14pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Por-15 is sticky to paint with but gives an OK finish, It dries rock hard and acts like cement sealing anything - even the paint tin lid (you have to scoop the paint out so as not to get it it on the rim!). Frosts chassis black is like painting glue and just leaves brush marks, it doesn't come in a spray, maybe I should thin it down BUT
you can now get POR-15 which is resistant to UV rays and I have ordered some from Frosts - hopefully it will arrive today! If you have a chassis with rusty bits i would suggest treating the rust with an acid treatment first then put the original POR-15 on as much of it won't see the light of day anyway and just top coat with chassis black for the bits that are exposed e.g. front dumb-irons rear cross-member etc Talking to the saleman I don't think the UV OK one is quite as strong as the original non UV protected one. It's brilliant stuff you wont ever see rust on your chassis again and saves a fortune over time spraying it with wax products. One tin should just about be enough £20. I have some chassis black left over you can have if you are ever in the area!
Chris PS another chassis black might be OK from another maker but you would have to check to see if it is compatible with PIOR-15. I used Halfords black spray on top of POR-15 once and it reacted badly  had to strip it all off again. Plasticote goes over it no problem though. |
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30th Apr 2011 7:00am |
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| RED-DOT Member Since: 29 Jun 2009 Location: stirling Posts: 2363 
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I always thought the Defender chassis rotted from inside the box sections and covering the original coat would invalidate the 6 year warranty?
I removed my SVX alloys and re-fitted my Boosts and was surprised how 100 ft/lbs is much less than rumping them up... we all are over torqueing them if done by a wheel key. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS.. |
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30th Apr 2011 9:11am |
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| DefenderOfTheEarth Member Since: 09 Nov 2010 Location: Cornwall, UK Posts: 1304
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Pretty much the same as my last "clean" pics but with a blacker rear bumper! I get funny looks from the wife when I take photos of the cars then post them on forums - so I have to limit my "madness" a bit! Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion. |
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30th Apr 2011 9:14am |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748
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Thanks for the reply mate. To be honest Im thinking of using POR15 on my galv chassis (along with mordent solution etc), but just on the rear crossmember as I hate the look of the galv. Might use it on my galv tree sliders as well. I didnt know they had introduced a UV resistant version as well. Might have to give it a try. |
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30th Apr 2011 4:44pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Don't bother with it Warpig, my Por -15 UV ok stuff came through and it is terrible to paint with, had to wipe if off - bloody waste of £27 and the same for Frosts chassis paint. The original POR-15 is good stuff though
Chris |
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30th Apr 2011 5:25pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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The point for me is that it is a new chassis and can be preserved for a very long time if it is properly protected now, inside and out! By the time 6 years is up the damage will have been done and once rot has set in you are on a losing battle. The rear quarter chassis can only be replaced once practically in the chassis life so it is well worth spending a couple of days treating it properly from the outset. My 1962 Series is still on its original chassis |
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30th Apr 2011 5:39pm |
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