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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1229

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Not sure as all mine have been older but from memory it's a single but done up to slightly silly torque and then staked in place. But you need to get the correct spacers and measure end float as well.

Many have gone over to double nut method as its much easier in the field. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #682118 27th Jan 2018 5:47pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4219

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Ah ok, so in addition to the kit linked further up, what would I need to add to my field wheel bearing kit to allow me to swap over to double nut if required? Or is it necessaty to swap ahead of time? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #682121 27th Jan 2018 5:52pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1229

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
As far as I know the spacer just falls out but someone more knowledgeable than me will hopefully reply. Then you just need the double nuts and lock washers. I think all the stub axle threads are the same.

I don't know if there's a difference on the front axles but there are shims usually required for the older ones. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #682126 27th Jan 2018 5:54pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2108

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I'm about to replace my front wheel bearings (Timken) - both wheels.

I haven't looked yet but I'm hoping I have the two nut fixing - so this thread has proved very useful Thumbs Up

There's plenty of guidance on the net (YouTube) however I'd appreciate some feedback from the forum members in relation to:

1) the best grease to use - I want to do it once and do it right (and don't wish to scrimp).
2) how much grease to use - I don't wish to over-grease (I know its key to fully grease the internals of the bearings).
3) your top 3 tips - learning from the mistakes and experiences of others?

Many thanks in advance Thumbs Up

Will
Post #687904 20th Feb 2018 8:29pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

1. it will be stack nut and spacer unless proves owner change too two nut
2. good LM based high melting grease, Castrol High Temperature Grease - Roller/Wheel Bearings or KFT400 MORRIS 400 GM K42EP LITHIUM
3. video below show good way pram grease in to your bearings
4. keep grit and dust out new bearing




Post #687924 20th Feb 2018 9:08pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Unlikely but don't mix up your spacers between wheels...

Torque on stake nut was over 200Nm if I recall, meaning your common 40-200Nm won't cut it.. (this is why I converted to two-nut system, which although fiddly, gives you back control over your vehicle, and not relying on some measurement made in the factory).

LR Tool box on YouTube has a few videos on the topic, I'm sure the basic descriptions of the process provided in many forums are working well for the owners, but he goes more in to the DTI side of things... Worth it IMO Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...


Last edited by agentmulder on 21st Feb 2018 1:13am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #687937 20th Feb 2018 10:09pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1764

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
It's not really possible to over grease a wheel bearing, don't trust the people that just put a smear on both sides and call it done!!!

I like the stake nut system personally, I know it has its detractors, but buy timken bearings and it'll serve you well, the spacer seems to be adjusted to take up slack in the original hub casting, the bearings are much more reliable batch to batch.
Post #687947 20th Feb 2018 11:19pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Easiest way to grease bearings is:

Put on rubber gloves
Place a large dollop of grease in the palm of your non dominant hand
Hold the bearing in your dominant hand
Push the bearing down through the dollop of grease towards your palm
Repeat this process until grease is coming out the top of the bearing.

You will use more grease than you think.


I stick to the single stake but set up and purchased a 1/2drv 52mm socket to torque them up. One thing to add to the list of items is new hub seals, these need to be removed to gain access to the rear bearing, I keep an old bearing race to assist in the fitting of new races and also it works excellently on the rear hub seal Thumbs Up 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #687948 20th Feb 2018 11:30pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1229

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I personally prefer the two nut system although never done the single nut. But at least with the two nut there are no spacers and also you can adjust them much more readily if required to get you out of a tight spot.

Just redone a front on mine (300Tdi 110) in about an hour all told. Welding clamp on flexi brake pipe is useful to minimise leakage.

Used a 1/2" ish aluminium round stock about 6" long to drift out old races. I keep all my old races and have put slits in them with the grinder so they can compress slightly smaller in diameter. Very useful for pressing or drifting new ones in. As previously discussed flip it upside down and can be used to push in the grease seal. Note that should have the lip recessed 4mm from outer surface as dictated on the seal itself. Direction is also important. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #687951 21st Feb 2018 1:24am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17475

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I can't remember if it works on the hub oil seal (I think so) but a trick for fitting the oil seal in the diff nose correctly is to use an old standard drive flange as a drift, since the lip on the drive flange is exactly the right diameter to insert the seal without damage, and the the right thickness to set it exactly square at the right depth.
Post #687964 21st Feb 2018 8:21am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4219

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
On the two nut system, are the two nuts that same part no.? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #688006 21st Feb 2018 12:09pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1229

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I'm 99% sure since they look identical. Never had to replace them though. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #688010 21st Feb 2018 12:23pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4219

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
The reason i ask is that I'm thinking of swapping to two nut system, and all the nuts listed are described as the lock nut. Just wanted to check that two of those are correct. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #688011 21st Feb 2018 12:29pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1229

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
FRC8700 Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #688014 21st Feb 2018 12:59pm
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