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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
in my opinion, is the rust powder that creeps into the elastic ring slot. This one, now, isn't able to keep in the right position the shaft and it coming out. At this point, since less surface of grooves is working, they sags. Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #487427 1st Jan 2016 12:46am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
ozy013 wrote:
Just a quick update, basically still waiting for a reply, that's not the standard computer generated "thank you for contacting us".
Apologies for not updating sooner, I just totally forgot.
Just resent original email.


Did you get any further reply?
Post #687751 20th Feb 2018 7:12am
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
dgardel wrote:
in my opinion, is the rust powder that creeps into the elastic ring slot. This one, now, isn't able to keep in the right position the shaft and it coming out. At this point, since less surface of grooves is working, they sags.


Your right on that dgardel,
these shafts work their way out, so only half of it is being used to transmit the power.
When replacing them, the clip pops into the recessed groove, but when dismantling, I’ve never found one to still be clipped into place.

This one from last week clearly shows only half the shaft was inside the cup, so the wear is very obvious,
I also think the strength of the clip that’s not able to hold the shaft in place has a lot to do with these failing?


Click image to enlarge
 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #687762 20th Feb 2018 8:33am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
A very interesting and sound observation, and possibly another plus for the Ashcroft mod, then, since the seal and retainer will probably stop the shaft disengaging.
Post #687776 20th Feb 2018 11:03am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Guys, it's sufficient a good grease on the spline, the spring/retainer is pulled out from the cave by the rust powder.

With grease the problem is solved! Cheeper and effective.

Mine, greased from new, has 114000km (remapped at 180CV) with no problem at all.....

I changed 3 clutches (last one is from transit 4x4) and every time I checked the spline status and it was as new. Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #687777 20th Feb 2018 11:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I know it is tempting fate to say this (it will probably now fail) but my 2007 DC has just passed 220,000 miles and is still on its original shaft.

When I last changed the clutch (at 150,000 miles) the shaft was dry but not worn, and the two parts were a better fit than the brand new parts I had already bought ready to fit. Since the originals were better than the replacements, I cleaned the originals and reassembled them with copious grease, and a further 70,000 miles have now passed.

I will be fitting another clutch as soon as I get the chance (after 70k miles the clutch has no springiness left and is not very pleasant to drive) and it will be interesting to inspect the shaft again.
Post #687778 20th Feb 2018 11:21am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
dgardel wrote:
...spring/retainer is pulled out from the cave by the rust powder.
...


Thinking further about this, it would also explain why in almost every case of failure the dust cover has come off - it has been forced off as the shaft works its way out of the splined socket.
Post #687781 20th Feb 2018 11:42am
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
One thing I did notice while replacing it,
Was how JLR had ramped up the price of the parts!

The first one I brought about 4 years ago was around £140 + vat.
This time it was just over £250 +vat. Rolling Eyes 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #687786 20th Feb 2018 11:59am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I wish that surprised me, but it doesn't. Big Cry
Post #687796 20th Feb 2018 12:45pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
I suppose it all helps towards paying for the gin palaces/showrooms.... Whistle 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #687805 20th Feb 2018 1:29pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8061

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
can you change this shaft with the gbox on the vehicle? just take the Tbox off the back, is there enough room to do it in under? last one i did was a gbox out job as clutch was being done. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #688196 22nd Feb 2018 11:35am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, you can.
Post #688205 22nd Feb 2018 12:47pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8061

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
thank you Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #688209 22nd Feb 2018 1:20pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
blackwolf wrote:
Yes, you can.


Just a visual inspection/lubrication only requires T/Box removal.

It’s not possible to replace the shaft without removing the box,
To remove the centre gearbox housing that the shaft is in, you need to remove the top cover housing on the box itself before it will come away,
Which means dropping the main box to gain access,

The shaft cup needs a puller to get it off, and there is hardly any room around the shaft, which is why it needs to be stripped.





Click image to enlarge





Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #688222 22nd Feb 2018 2:37pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Beg to differ, Ian, I have stripped mine down with the gearbox on the car without difficulty.

I accept that removing the splined cup that fits on the gearbox output spigot may be difficult if you don't have a suitable holdfast tool and suitable pullers, but the extension housing can be removed and the complete adaptor shaft replaced with the box in situ on the car.

I am not saying that it isn't easier with the box off the car, but it can be done with the box on still.
Post #688259 22nd Feb 2018 5:49pm
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