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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Gas Strut - Thought it closed the door as well.....??
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2109

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I'm with Stacey007 and others on this one. The V3 (top mounted) is the way to go.

As others have said - assisted open and partially assisted close - once you push it past a certain point. Damped too.

Purchased from Brendan when they first came out and it's been faultless.

Wife can open/close it but kids can't Thumbs Up
Post #658871 22nd Oct 2017 7:48am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
The version 3 top mounted strut is good and in theory requires no drilling.

The door bracket just bolts onto the top hinge bolts.

The main bracket goes underneath the two grab handles above the rear door. Occasionally our customers have found that LR build tolerances come into effect and that the two grab handle spacing is out of tolerance. In that case the holes in the main bracket need elongating.

The strut needs fixing as per instructions, if not you may well be Big Cry



HTH


Brendan
Post #658912 22nd Oct 2017 12:33pm
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NMBRPL8



Member Since: 07 Jul 2015
Location: Australia
Posts: 150

Australia 
An alternative as a rear door opening prop run is to run as elastic stap between the open rear door's wheel and the reset fuel inlet.
This can hang on the spare wheel till when needed.
Post #658913 22nd Oct 2017 12:43pm
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AMBxx



Member Since: 24 Jul 2016
Location: York
Posts: 1043

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Has anyone managed to create a self-closing door for a Defender? You can buy an after-market kit for some cars (certainly my wife's X1). System of pullies down the inside would do the job.
Post #659098 23rd Oct 2017 6:35am
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Vogler



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

Belgium 2015 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
We installed a V3 a few months before our trip to Iceland, where we used the rear of our 2-door 110 for shelter during lunch etc. We usually use our coleman fuel stove on a shelf suspended on the inside of the rear door, and the last thing you want to happen is the wind catching the door when the stove is at full burn.

The V3 is nice kit and it managed to keep the door open in the fiercest of winds, but if you often use the rear door for access and you need to close it behind you from the inside, then the gas strut is too strong to be comfortable. Even I struggled to close it behind me and rarely managed to do it in one go. It also became an increasing issue of discontent for mrs Vogler.

The Nakatanenga strut is 450N if I'm not mistaken. Co-traveller Peter Td4 used two 520N-ish struts to lift his >100kg hinged roof - so it is clear that the 450N strut is overkill. I also worry about the strain that it puts on the roof, and will be replacing the strut by a lighter type in the near future.

Maybe worthy of note is that our hardtop doesn't have a grip above the door and hence no rivnuts as SW's do. But that is quickly solved of course and I put a reinforcing bar behind the lip above the door to spread the stress.

Greetings,

Joris
Post #661170 1st Nov 2017 3:01pm
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