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Devon-Rover

Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 917

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green

I do a recap in PT 2 but for quick continuity I used on the 110:

3 x Cans of S50
3 x Cans of UB
1 X Can of UC

IMHO it went on well and covered all but I do like a bit of redundancy so I would of rather had another tin of each and not had to use then then just enough to have a tiny bit left at the end.

So for a ninety 3 tins of S50 and UB or UC depending on your choice would cover well.

The POR 15 was to tart up the rear cross as the factory paint is pitiful so after a scotch brite over it was masked and sprayed then left for a few hours then sprayed again to give two coats. It was left overnight then I did the wax job, Again if I had more time (I only took a week off work to budget time on the work and the extra time to film it.) I would of liked to leave the rear X paint to harden for another 5 - 6 hours as it was touch dry but only just.

The KEY point is that preparation is the main thing. Through clean and degrease of the underside using a rag and brake cleaner on the heavy bits then a long pressure wash and Surfex HD using a spray gun will pull all the surface grim off and give the wax a good chance to adhere.

31st Oct 2017 2:04pm

Djcla

Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

thanks so if i wanted to do POR 15 on first , how many cans you think to do the chassis and axles underneath which would look smart.

31st Oct 2017 2:08pm

Devon-Rover

Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 917

Ohhh Don't quote me but 1 can has done 2 rear X passes, 2 x coats on the rock sliders, rear tow hitch and fuel filter cover. and there is still a bit left approx. 1/4 in a can so I would say 2 cans to do what you plan to. after all it is about £24 a can.

31st Oct 2017 4:41pm

Djcla

Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

thanks , its the cost that puts me off and i may keep this process simple with the 2 products you used . I was originally thinking of using Fertan rust converter in the chassis as well but it all gets quite expensive.

Is the cavity wax clear btw?

31st Oct 2017 4:51pm

Devon-Rover

Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 917

No the S50 is brown-ish.

I could of painted the whole underside but I didn't as it was going to waxed and as you said cost is a factor to some especially me. the Rear X is the visible bit so a nice strong paint coat is key to me.

It is far cheaper to DIY then pay a dude to do it and being your own truck you take more care. I brought the Paint and masking stuff off ebay and the BH stuff came from Opie. the PPE was from local sources.

31st Oct 2017 5:02pm

Djcla

Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

Cheers bud for all the info, just wish I had a nice garage and lift like your self..

31st Oct 2017 8:34pm

Scotm

Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey

Might be worth considering this if you are wanting to paint the chassis before hand:

https://www.tetrosylexpress.com/home/catal...TETTBL005-

It is about £40 a tin. I have used it on trailers as well as my rear cross member with good results. Wish I had come across it before dynaxing my chassis.

31st Oct 2017 9:11pm

Devon-Rover

Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 917

Djcla wrote:
Cheers bud for all the info, just wish I had a nice garage and lift like your self..

It is a friend of mines place and I reckon I could of done it on my neighbours drive (I don't have one let alone a garage) but the filming and creating a high (ish) quality production would of suffered. The job would of been done but there is no way the guide would of been any good. Just see my service guide as to how mother nature makes it hard to film and wind noise is very very annoying.

31st Oct 2017 9:22pm

Djcla

Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

I've subscribed to your channel as I fancy having ago at doing my own servicing next year.. I'm just weighing up options right now but will probably tackle the chassis cavity and then the underneath at a later date. I'm thinking of cleaning it out with a drain unblocking jet wash attachment, then using some fertan rust convertor in the cavity before the waxing stage.

1st Nov 2017 7:47am

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