Home > Technical > TD5 low power & poor torque. |
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pj2106 Member Since: 20 Dec 2012 Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire Posts: 1500 |
Unplug maf and try then easy to check first off also check red ecu plug for oil 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold 1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold |
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30th Oct 2017 8:17am |
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Kit Member Since: 12 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 1110 |
Boost leak/seized caliper? 1993 200 Tdi 90 CSW
1956 Series 1 Hard-top 1958 Series 1 Soft-top |
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30th Oct 2017 8:28am |
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Scandihoovian Member Since: 22 May 2017 Location: Scandia Posts: 9 |
Kind of a crosspost from my other thread at a different forum. Hopefully that is ok?
Hmm. Ok. Removed the MAP+MAF couple of weeks ago and both looked intact. The car was in the shop for fault code reading so I somehow presumed the shop would have noticed in diagnostics that the MAF gives wrong readings? Will check out if I can get a hand on a working MAF though, just to check it out. Weirdest thing, yes. Few things that have been nagging in the back of my head, "Could it be?" are : - what symptoms semi stuck EGR would do? - Some kind of leak in turbo hoses / crapping out actuator? What I do have that I forgot to mention: i think my clutch is going out as well. DMF is shaking a bit when coming to a stop for few seconds or if you are taking of by sliding the clutch. Pinion bearing(?) have been screeching loudly now and then. The car starts moving from stop on flat surface quite normally. But on a cold start and trying to get uphill, hell, had to use 4low to get up from the yard yesterday. Second weirdness it when trying to get moving on slow speed (1st gear+reverse) the TC can kick in for a second (light comes on) and there is a churning sound from transfercase/gearbox area you can feel on brake pedal as well. Like the abs would be kick on. It goes away when pressing the clutch down. And the TC light can come on for a second if the right wheel hits a larger bump on slow speed with the "gccccrrrrrrrhh" sound as well, like the TC/Abs would kick in... What a goddamn mystery this is. Flanges were changed in the front few weeks back after front (right) wheelbearing decided to totally seize...after 1000kms... Could it be that the front diff is borked somehow, abs ring being damaged and that is feeding some weirdness to the ECU or whatnot? There seem to be quite a bit going on with the car. If things would have been simple, I guess the shop(s) would have come up with some kind of solution(s). Now, basically everyone is baffled. As the car still rolls, things have resorted back to "wait and see what breaks" kind of stalemate.. |
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31st Oct 2017 6:52pm |
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Chris86 Member Since: 15 Jul 2014 Location: South Yorks Posts: 789 |
Your ABS/TC Fault could be a few things;
-Worn wheel bearings -Displaced Sensor (a gentle tap down with a rubber hammer will confirm/disprove this) -Needle roller bearing inside the hub worn- this is near impossible to check so eliminate everything else first! -CV/Stub shaft end float not quite correct (needs spacing with shims) I went through all of these last year with a rougue TC fault. Chris |
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31st Oct 2017 7:08pm |
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Scandihoovian Member Since: 22 May 2017 Location: Scandia Posts: 9 |
Sir! Thank you for pointers! 1. It should not be the wheel bearings. Right hand side seized in april, got rechanged july. First time it got changed, either they failed to lube them or the part was sub standard. All the other 3 wheels have been changed in the last 6mths. 2. Care to elaborate? : I am a noob with the Defender, only a year of ownership (I am full of fail.) 3. I have to check if this was replaced.. 4. Would that thing manifest with symptoms described? And a question : Could the copper ABS position shim (?) manifest itself with this kind of symptoms? And I apologize if my English & terminology is crap, I am not a native in English so I have a lot to catch up... |
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31st Oct 2017 9:54pm |
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