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BenB8man

Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 429

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Clutch change, Ashcroft adaptor shaft, questions and cockups

Hope everyone's having a good weekend.

Before I get stuck into this I'd like to say that I'm fairly inexperienced with defenders. I've got a little bit of mechanical experience but I knew I was going to be working to the limit of my current skills when I decided to give this a go. So please go easy on me!

I had a few quotes from independents of over £1000 to do a clutch change and the Ashcroft shaft upgrade kit, so decided to do the job myself. I've wanted to take on a little project like this for bloody years. So I threw caution to the wind, ordered the clutch pack from Ben at Clutchfix and chucked some money Ashcrofts direction.

Within the day I had the gearbox out and on the bench, transfer box off the gearbox to get at the shaft and found the red dust. There really wasn't much left on the splines, so really needed doing. The clutch came it and the springs were knackered too, so that also confirmed my suspicions about the rattle in neutral.

Click image to enlarge

Now first issue I noticed was my gearbox/bell house breather seems to be missing.

Click image to enlarge
Someone has obviously attempted to seal this up, but not particularly well, as it practically fell out. Is this something I should be overly concerned about?

Next thing is a little embarrassing, as it was entirely my cockup! I'm ready for a

taking for sure.
I pulled the shaft ok, and managed to get the bolt holding the cup out ok using possibly a convoluted method. I used a spanner to slot into the little cutout on te cup and strapped that to the bench.

Click image to enlarge
This obviously wasn't too much of an issue as the cup was knackered. Full of confidence I knocked on the new cup and replaced the bolt. I used the spanner method again and torqued the bolt to correct spec. What I didn't realise was that this damaged the threads on the cup.

I pushed the shaft into place and slid the oil seal cup over the shaft and things went very wrong. The damaged threads scored the oil seal mating surface and locked it all together. Not with all my strength could I remove the cup. The only choice I had was to spin it off, which I did whilst wincing. The damage when I got it off made my stomach churn. It was like a lathe had been at it!

Click image to enlarge

Obviously I've

it, and need to reorder. Lesson learnt. An expensive mistake which I won't be repeating!

Leading on from that, how would you suggest I securely hold the cup whilst torquing the bolt up? I'm thinking about trying a strap wrench, but thought I'd ask before I go out to buy one!

Thanks for your patience,

Regards

Ben

24th Sep 2017 12:44pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

308-701 "Locking Fixture Output Flange"

24th Sep 2017 10:48pm

Olsey

Member Since: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 27

Hi Ben,

Have you got around fixing up your issue? If so, how'd you go?

I'm about to drop the gearbox/tcase on mine. Did you follow the workshop manual? If so, are you reusing parts that the manual states you need to renew?

Cheers,
Tim

28th Sep 2017 2:10am

BenB8man

Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 429

Hiya Tim,

Yes I've spoken to Ashcroft who have sorted a replacement part. Luckily not at a horrendous price as I was expecting!

Workshop manual was handy, as well as a PDF from a Land Rover Magazine about the fitting procedure for the Ashcroft kit.

Really though, it's all pretty self explanatory. Driveshafts, handbrake drum, exhaust, cubby box. I am however going to replace the bolts that I should be renewing.

Are you doing the clutch upgrade too? Because Clutchfix have given me all the latest slave kit in the box. Just need belhousing bolts, adaptor shaft bolt and some seals I think.

Cheers

28th Sep 2017 2:18am

Olsey

Member Since: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 27

Hey Ben,

Nah, not doing the clutch but will inspect it anyway. Dropping it to fit a new breather port that's part of a raised 5-port breather manifold. Can't get to it in situ to work on.

I will also inspect the output shaft. Don't have the money to install a Ashcroft Output Shaft Kit at the moment. But that might change when I look at the output shaft.

The workshop manual states to install a new o-ring seal for the clutch slave cylinder fluid pipe, but apparently the o-ring is not available on it's own. You have the purchase slave cylinder adapter or whatever, the fluid pipe connects to. I think some people just reuse the o-ring instead of purchasing whole new slave cylinder parts.

Cheers,
Tim

28th Sep 2017 2:46am

BenB8man

Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 429

Ah ok! I'd really recommend looking at both. They seem like a real issue from the factory.

If you cannot afford the Ashcroft upgrade I wouldn't worry too much. I'd say a new shaft from LR with a load of grease should last a bloody long time. More than enough time to wait until you need to do the clutch (if you get away with it this time).

Like I said, with my HD clutch I've received all the new slave stuff, so I'm hoping theres an O ring in there too!

Just out of interest, as I'll be keen on doing the breather too, is it a 1/8" BSP fitting that needs to go into the gearbox housing? I was looking at getting a right angled, swivel, stainless 6mm push fit connector and a bit of 6mm hose for that job.

28th Sep 2017 5:08am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

If you're going to the trouble of removing the transfer box I would strongly recommend inspecting the clutch driven plate and the output adaptor shaft even if you don't initially plan to replace either. Both are notorious weak points in the Puma driveline, and inspecting them adds little time to the job. You will kick yourself if you don't and either fails just after you've got it all back together.

Clutch driven plates, even the latest version, can suffer from spring failure in as little as 20k miles, and it is almost certain that the springs will have taken a permanent set by 50k, even if the clutch isn't rattling and the vehicle still drives.

The adaptor shaft should be lubricated at any opportunity if you want to preserve it.

It is still a mystery why some adaptor shafts last indefinitely while others fail under 10k miles. There must be more to this than just lubrication.

28th Sep 2017 9:22am

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2300

Nice combo

Just had an ashcroft kit and clutchfix kit put in mine.

28th Sep 2017 12:46pm

BenB8man

Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 429

Good stuff hank! You finding much difference between the clutches? Any reduced driveline knock reduction with the new shaft?

Tim I think the part you need for the slave is LR068981. That's what came in my clutch kit.

28th Sep 2017 1:18pm

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2300

Nothing noticeable on driveline knock to be honest, however my drive flanges are sloppy and need replacing so difficult to tell.

No noticeable difference on clutch feel but it works as it should and no problems towing so I'm a happy customer

I had them done as the box was coming off anyway to replace leaky crank main oil seal. Defender is on 75k and no history of clutch or shaft being done so thought it was probably worthwhile refreshing both.

28th Sep 2017 2:24pm

Olsey

Member Since: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 27

Hi Ben,

I'm not exactly sure what size fitting it is, but I've just received Gwyn Lewis' diff/axel breathers which are M12 thread (you do have to tap the thread though. The breather manifold I've purchased is Nugget Stuff's 5-port breather.

The photo of the manifold kit shows a brass fitting. That is what fits into the gearbox breather port and the push-in fitting takes 6mm nylon tubing. I wouldn't be surprised if its a 3/8 BSP, though I'll try and find out exactly.

Cheers,
Tim

29th Sep 2017 1:17am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

I think the Glyn Lewis kit uses an M12 fine series thread, not the more common coarse series found on 'normal' M12 nuts and bolts. Worth cheicking that the tap you're going to use matches the fitting before tapping the hole.

I may be wrong however since I haven't seen the kit in the flesh.

29th Sep 2017 7:46am

Olsey

Member Since: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 27

Yep, I made sure I ordered the tap as well, which Gwyn stocks.

29th Sep 2017 9:41am

tuesdayfox

Member Since: 23 Jun 2013
Location: Sydney,OZ
Posts: 129

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Zambezi Silver

Thanks for sharing this.
I went underneath her and found red dust too in the gearbox transfer box joint.
I am thinking of doing this
But just wondering how hard it is.

I have replaced the rotor and not afraid to give it a try
Is there any special tools that I need?

Thanks

30th Sep 2017 3:54am

BenB8man

Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 429

It's all pretty straight forward. The only things that are a little harder and might be worth buying specialist tools for are a transmission jack, clutch alignment tool, and something to hold the drive cup as mentioned above.

Other than that, all should be doable with some torx bits, a decent socket set (with a breaker bar) spanners.

Although bear in mind that I've not actually got my gearbox back in yet. That could be the difficult bit!

Any other questions give me a shout and I'll do my best to help.

30th Sep 2017 11:39am

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