 | Home > Technical > High Level Stop/brake Light help (fixed) |
 
|
|
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2298   
|
Hello Djcla
This may help... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic34909.html SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
21st Aug 2017 11:14am |
|
| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736  
|
This is the one I used:
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-bo...ter-repair |
||
|
21st Aug 2017 2:24pm |
|
| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
|
im making the assumption the current runs along the outer vertical edge of the circuit rather than the break being on one of the horizontal heater elements as it seems to be 2 separate connections .
|
||
|
21st Aug 2017 2:43pm |
|
| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736
|
Yes, if you know that your heated rear window works then you should be testing the outer of the two vertical tracks which feeds the light. If you are not certain then test all three vertical tracks. If you have power (12 v) across the spade connectors at the base of the window then the fault will be in one or more of these tracks. Remember you have two separate circuits to test. One feeds the light, the other the heating elements of the screen. It is a process of elimination.
Hope this helps. |
||
|
21st Aug 2017 5:08pm |
|
| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
|
Right did some tests black lead on left red on right bottom connectors I get 12v.
If I put black lead on brake light left connection and red lead bottom right I get 12v . If I put red anywhere other than where the wire meet the window I lose voltage. So I assume there is an issue where it's stuck to Window but not sure how I'd fix that 
 Click image to enlarge |
||
|
22nd Aug 2017 8:28pm |
|
| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
|
My eBay second hand brake light arrived said it was for disco / Defender but seems to be too small. The light bit doesn't fill the rectangular gap in the window so shows plastic along the top. I'm guessing this is not meant to look like that anyway
|
||
|
26th Aug 2017 10:06am |
|
| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736
|
OK. You now know the wiring to the window and switches are working. As you say, you have an fault with the connection at the window. This is soldered on, but I do not know how. You may be able to resolder this joint but you run the risk of cracking the glass. This may not matter as if the connection cannot be repaired you are back to sourcing a replacement window, or running a wire from the connector to the high level brake light.
Shame the replacement lamp is wrong. 
Again, I do not know what differences there may be between vehicles/years. |
||
|
26th Aug 2017 10:36am |
|
| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
|
I was going to try conductive glue to repair or just run a wire on the one side.
|
||
|
26th Aug 2017 11:54am |
|
| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736
|
Nothing to loose with the conductive glue. Neater if it works. Try bridging with a piece of wire first to check that you can make a circuit, i.e. from your 12v to the nearest point on the track.
|
||
|
26th Aug 2017 1:10pm |
|
| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
|
Yeah that's what I was thinking of trying, thanks for the tips, I'll keep you posted
 |
||
|
26th Aug 2017 1:47pm |
|
| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
|
Ok I can bridge the gap ok so looks , just trying to work out how to get the connector off screen without smashing it lol. Or find a connector I can glue above it perhaps.
|
||
|
31st Aug 2017 3:10pm |
|
| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736
|
I wouldn't try to remove the soldered connector at this stage. Try fine emery paper on the top of the soldered connector and also the spade connector which connects to the car wiring. This might give you the power you need. Then use emery paper (gently) on the nearest bit of the track to the soldered connector. With luck you can join these two clean bits with the conductive silver from the repair kit.
Hope this makes sense. |
||
|
31st Aug 2017 4:55pm |
|
| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
|
I think so , I've some 600 grit wet n dry sand paper is that pretty much same thing? I assume you mean to put silver repair stuff on the track and connector to try and make a connection?
|
||
|
31st Aug 2017 7:38pm |
|
| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736
|
Yes, 600 grit will be fine if you are gentle. You are looking for a shiny bright contact surface on the soldered connector. The track needs more care buf you need a clean surface. The silver paint should brush on and hopefully make a connection. You may need several coats. Some while since I last did it.
|
||
|
31st Aug 2017 8:30pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
