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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
Dealin with rust
i have completely stripped everythin off to a rollin chassis.

What may i use to clean up this rust and protect the chassis for more yrs of use?


Click image to enlarge
Post #644055 15th Aug 2017 3:23am
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1763

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
If you're really going for clean then a proper bead blast/ acid dip will get rid of anything nasty, however it might uncover more than you expect!

Then dinitrol or similar to protect
Post #644078 15th Aug 2017 8:00am
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Kit



Member Since: 12 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 1110

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Scotia Grey
Wire brush, degrease, sand down, rust kill, primer, paint, waxoil/dinitrol/buzzweld 1993 200 Tdi 90 CSW
1956 Series 1 Hard-top
1958 Series 1 Soft-top
Post #644089 15th Aug 2017 8:44am
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
Rust Kill?

I have found products called rust converter...

Dinitrol will be hazardous to transport, I have to try and find a product locally that does the same thing.

I may use bedliner, but the chaps here want the same amount as a new chassis shipped...
Post #644096 15th Aug 2017 9:16am
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Surely if you've gone that far, it would be worth getting it blasted and galvanised??

Some would argue about galvanising an older chassis, but I had my 1956 86" done, and it came up a treat inside and out,
Also, it would probably work out a cheaper option. 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #644097 15th Aug 2017 9:17am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Never done anything that major, but I wire brush, treat with Fertan, paint (sometimes, usually with POR-15) then Dinitrol.

Would also use the Bilt Hamber products (instead of dinitrol)

Fertan seems really good for converting rust and helping prevent future rust.,.. I'm impressed how good it is!
http://www.fertan.co.uk/ Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #644099 15th Aug 2017 9:24am
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Kit



Member Since: 12 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 1110

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Scotia Grey
Naf wrote:
Rust Kill?

I have found products called rust converter...

Dinitrol will be hazardous to transport, I have to try and find a product locally that does the same thing.

I may use bedliner, but the chaps here want the same amount as a new chassis shipped...


Yes rust converter is the same, raptor bed liner is very easy to use but it does go everywhere 1993 200 Tdi 90 CSW
1956 Series 1 Hard-top
1958 Series 1 Soft-top
Post #644100 15th Aug 2017 9:30am
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 616

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Look for marine type paints and chemicals also. Your are in Kuwait so I think, someone there repair boats. and repairin boats = fighting with corrosion. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #644113 15th Aug 2017 10:08am
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2158

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Tbh Naf it seems youre in the middle east, not as though it's going to be that wet!!

Sand off any major rust with a grinder and wire wheel (buy loads) then paint. As MadTom said boat repair places should have what you need.

Coat of red oxide then bedliner (Raptor/LineX etc) will keep it solid for a good while
Post #644122 15th Aug 2017 10:24am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20314

United Kingdom 
I'd consider galvanising as you have got it to where it is. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #644130 15th Aug 2017 11:19am
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Neilios



Member Since: 01 Nov 2017
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 169

England 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HCPU Keswick Green
I have to agree, if it's down that far do it with a galvanised chassis, you will never be happy otherwise, you can get carried away though, I have 110 in hundreds of bits, every time some thing is removed, I blast and paint/galvanise the process is taking ages but the result willl be worth it, keep the pictures coming.
Post #667186 27th Nov 2017 6:09am
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defender9



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1629

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
I agree with Ian if you have gone this far if you can get it galvanised I would. The chassis rot also from the inside out so I would go all over it with a small hammer, tapping the metal, if it rings its ok but if you hear a dull thud then it will probably need some welding first before galvanising. I also had my 1955 chassis galvanised some 26 years ago and its still in excellent condition.
Post #667251 27th Nov 2017 12:32pm
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MJN110



Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 380

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Montalcino Red
If I was at that stage it would definitely be a new galv chassis for me anything other than that is half a job
As has already been pointed out they rust from the inside out.
Post #667283 27th Nov 2017 2:55pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Por15 using their metal prep Thumbs Up Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #667291 27th Nov 2017 3:22pm
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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
Does galvanising harden the steel ?
Post #667377 27th Nov 2017 7:47pm
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