 | Home > Series Land Rovers > Rusty the S2a - The rebuild thread. |
 
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265  
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Okay, so rear tub and I'm pleasantly surprised!!
Once I'd cleared 50 years of crud off it's actually in great shape, I suspect Land Rover in 1966 was pretty good at quality. Nearly 2 decades into production and before British Leyland. So much so I've decided 1966 was the best year for Land Rovers. (Also Wine & Football) 
So in short it needs 1 new cross members and some galvanic corrosion neatening up. 50 years of crud 
4 hours later (& a lot of wire brushing)
1 bad (steel) bit [/url]
and lots of this Last edited by Tiger on 9th Jul 2017 10:25pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Jul 2017 8:45pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2245  
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That's nice, good work
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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9th Jul 2017 10:23pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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Given the controversy it creates when someone describes a 'Series' Land Rover as a Defender. Why are we allowing this irrelevant post on the "Defender 2" Forum?!
Posted in Jest obviously!  |
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9th Jul 2017 10:48pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Arrgh the thread started as something else.
I'll ask Martin to move it |
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9th Jul 2017 10:51pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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I was only joking, it's completely relevant to a Defender, the seat boxes and tubs are basically the same. The whole car is! I never understand why people get so upset when they see a leaf sprung vehicle described as a Defender, even though Land Rover themselves do it. The Series 1 was named in retrospect too.....
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9th Jul 2017 10:59pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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The crossmembers on that tub look better than my 1999 station wagon
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10th Jul 2017 8:00am |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Right a bit more progress. (its a bit of a hack but really didn't fancy new rear qtrs and the alloy bar and seen as it's mostly very solid I've cheated a bit. So the galvanic edges of the rear qtrs I was just original going to trim a straight edge taking 5mm off the bottom the panel but instead I've decided to build it back up again using a bit of fibreglass.
..and from inside
jig off
bit of etch primer to show where i'll need a bit of knifing filler |
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10th Jul 2017 9:47am |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Good 'tub' progress today.
One of the rear wings had a nasty crease in it and it wouldn't knock without with springing all in and out. Anyway had an idea to clamp a bit of worktop to it and 'anneal it' with a blowtorch, the internet said 350c so armed with infrared thermometer and blowtorch and hammer i've been heating and gently persuading the rear wing to be straight(ish) Very weird watching the ally bend and bow into it's own shapes under heat. Clamped up
After heat (and few whacks)
Needs a bit of filler but really pleased 
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10th Jul 2017 1:39pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3785  
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Great work Tiger,...looking forward to seeing more of this.
Pickles. |
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10th Jul 2017 9:55pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Okay so now the rear is tidy!
From crusty grizzly edges to nice and smooth
Crusty and grizlly!
Flat & smooth! Click image to enlarge Next job is to replace the bad crossmember then paint! |
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12th Jul 2017 1:18pm |
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| Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Woodford Posts: 1110 
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Really interested in the detail of how you did the fibreglass edge on the rear quarters. Can you elaborate on your process? It looks very neat and my S2a is also suffering. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy |
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14th Jul 2017 7:45am |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Nothing too advanced, just wire brushed and flappy disc'ed the powdery edges to get to solid aluminium.
Then clamped 2 bits of wood up to make a rough shape with some extra. Then built up using fibreglass filler, waited for it to dry, cut the edges 2mm to big with a junior hack saw then block sanded against a straight edge. This post shows the highly technical jig...http://www.defender2.net/forum/post636713.html#636713 |
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14th Jul 2017 10:17am |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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Right, more work on the tub..
The nearest tub cross member had had it so a new one was needed Click image to enlarge Patched the holes with my favourite stuff .... (flibreglass, used mating this time) as it was only 2 small holes in the tub floor. Where the support beams had gone I slid 15mm Aluminium channel into the existing beams, this will reinforce the existing but also give me something to rivet the new crossmember to. Anything steel was also primed Click image to enlarge New crossmember fixed into place and the whole underside of the tub was etched Click image to enlarge Then given a coat of Buzzwelds's CIO mainly because I had half a tin (horrible stuff!!) but neatens it all up and and extra layer in the battle against galvanic corrosion.
Anyway pretty please, just waiting for it to dry then turn it over never to be seen again. (apart from by an MOT man) |
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14th Jul 2017 10:35am |
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| Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Woodford Posts: 1110
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Thanks 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy |
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14th Jul 2017 2:30pm |
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