 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Gas Strut - Thought it closed the door as well.....?? |
 
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| Butchers Boy Member Since: 10 Jan 2016 Location: Essex Posts: 426   
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Rallymental - I just fitted the V2 there are four holes you have to drill but they are behind the rear door card to fit the new bracket which you cant see once you put the door card back on...
 Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  2010 Defender 90 HT
The longer I live..... The better I was! |
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2nd Jul 2017 12:14pm |
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| Rallymental Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: The Garden of England Posts: 468 
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thanks
So would you recommend? The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results. Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years" Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis............................. |
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3rd Jul 2017 6:58am |
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| Butchers Boy Member Since: 10 Jan 2016 Location: Essex Posts: 426
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I wasn't sure to start with but only because I thought it had a soft close action like the one below in the video....
My fault if you look at the reflection of the guy closing the door he continues to push the door closed on the rear wheel but looks like the gas strut is closing the door for him once the door gets to within a foot of the door frame...... 
In terms of opening the rear door, not letting it swing back if parked on a hill or blown shut on a windy day - yes I'd recommend it... 2010 Defender 90 HT
The longer I live..... The better I was! |
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3rd Jul 2017 9:12am |
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| Rallymental Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: The Garden of England Posts: 468
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Cheers!
Yeah the closing on the back can be a bit painful!![/img] The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results. Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years" Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis............................. |
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3rd Jul 2017 1:45pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3800
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I have this and it works great
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Wife has trouble closing the boot though, she is only 5ft nothing and small... she struggled without this  |
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3rd Jul 2017 1:55pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7908 
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I'm glad you pointed that out, I thought it looked like soft close too! James MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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3rd Jul 2017 2:28pm |
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| churchy Member Since: 28 Jul 2011 Location: UK Posts: 237 
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Took delivery of the mud one today and tried to fit - bought a riveter from screwfix but it doesn't seem to be man enough for the job?! I couldn't squeeze it enough to get the rivet to pop. User error or do I need a more powerful riveter like the concertina type as opposed to the squeeze type? I realise they are heavy duty rivets so now my gas strut costs me £115 if you include a decent riveter!!!!
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19th Oct 2017 5:25pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Churchy the squeeze type riveters can be a two handed job to set the rivets correctly.
Alternative if you can not source a decent riveter easily is to use some small rivnuts. You will be drilling a slightly larger hole so take care you do not drill through the door's outer skin. Someone did try to copy the rear door strut and saved some pennies by buying cheap easy to set rivets and promptly run into other issues! Brendan |
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19th Oct 2017 7:23pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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I used a quick clamp (one of the ones with an action like a silicone gun) on the handles of my riveter to do them. Entirely because I was too lazy to go and borrow the lazy tongs from across the road.
Lazy tongs make the job much easier. |
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19th Oct 2017 7:58pm |
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| Gonarezhou Member Since: 08 Mar 2015 Location: White River Posts: 178  
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I recently fitted the type supplied from Brendan. Yes, it was hectic to get the rivets to snap but it can be done with a measure of force - even using a standard Stanley type gun. The modification is fantastic! No more banged arms or shoulders when opening on a slope. And no it does not self-close .... in fact there is a resistance when closing the door. Yay, no more slamming of the rear door by the arbitrary passenger. The pressure to open the door of the gas strut takes a little getting used to but I do like watching the door open unassisted. One of the better mods I have done to my MY2014....along with the MUD fascia mod that redirects the airflow from the lower vent into the footwell and not directly onto your calf (third-degree burns in winter, cramps in summer). Why this was not done by the manufacturer can only be attributed to sheer laziness and cost saving. Along with the ridiculously antiquated heater/cooling control mechanism as discussed in other threads.
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19th Oct 2017 9:23pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17610 
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I bought one of these to set larger sized pop rivets (or breakstem fasteners as they should properly be called, since "POP rivet" is a trademark of Emhart-Tucker):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eclipse-By-Spear...1741555682 Makes setting the big ones so effortless! |
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19th Oct 2017 9:51pm |
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| churchy Member Since: 28 Jul 2011 Location: UK Posts: 237
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Thanks all - funnily enough I tried the clamp technique too but still no joy. Lazy tong it is then.
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20th Oct 2017 7:48am |
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| churchy Member Since: 28 Jul 2011 Location: UK Posts: 237
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New lazy tongs purchased and it was all attached before my tea had gone cold! Very happy although the door card seems to pop at the bottom when I shut the door so maybe I need to adjust?
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20th Oct 2017 9:42pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Churchy, chances are you need to adjust the rear door card! The inside of the door card can be a bit uneven so either remove any obvious lumps or with a hot air gun/hair dryer gently warm up the area close to the beginning of the ‘bulge’ for original door stay and push it outwards slightly.
HTH Brendan |
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21st Oct 2017 8:52am |
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