 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Removing wheel nuts.. |
 
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4733  
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Yesterday having cracked the wheels nuts on the LR88 with an extension bar and a 27mm socket (they hadn't been off for a long time and were very tight) I used a half inch ratchet and a 27mm socket to remove the nuts. I found this worked better than using a wheel brace. Thought I'd pass it on. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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10th May 2017 1:25pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7908  
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Thanks, that would seem a sensible solution
 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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10th May 2017 4:33pm |
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| AndyT66 Member Since: 19 Sep 2016 Location: Bedford Posts: 149  
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Glad I'm not the only one! On Sunday I used a draper extending wrench and a 3foot length of scaffold tube to give me a decent lever
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10th May 2017 7:29pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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I use this:
http://www.toolnation.nl/milwaukee-ipwe400...eutel& Best Land Rover investment I ever did. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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10th May 2017 8:03pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17559 
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Before I fitted my Blindos I used to carry one of these -
http://www.tyre-equipment.co.uk/acatalog/C...4WL_P.html Cheap(ish), will easily undo the most absurdly tight nuts, and can be spun to remove them quickly. It won't fit the Blindos since the nuts are recessed too deeply in counterbores which are smaller than the tool. |
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10th May 2017 9:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20590
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Carrying a leverage bar for wheel changing purposes will be a weapon next.
I carry about a 3ft square tube steel bar too. Play Stupid Games, Win Stupid Prizes. Big Brother is Watching. 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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10th May 2017 9:48pm |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633  
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24" nuckle bar and a socket for me, bought it for my first series motor and have used it in all my Landys since. If you need a 3' extension bar to crack your wheel nuts then they are on a tad tight
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10th May 2017 10:06pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20590
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I don't really need it that long, just easier.
I'm sure some clowns have overtightened mine before, normally MOT men not servicing. Some seeto think a Defender is a HGV I think when it comes to wheel nut torques etc. I've known the handbrake being put on far to tight before too. But yes, a bar just makes a heavier job that bit lighter. Play Stupid Games, Win Stupid Prizes. Big Brother is Watching. 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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10th May 2017 10:24pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4733
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My main point was that the ratchet and socket was a lot easier to use than the wheelbrace, especially on the lower nuts where the brace would hit off the ground. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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10th May 2017 11:15pm |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 
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I always use a torque wrench ( warren and brown ) too tighten wheel nuts. However too release greater torque is required. As a result I have been using nickel anti seize with no ill effect for a long time.
I have never researched this, however works for me |
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11th May 2017 12:04am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Summed up thusly:
> Ratchets are great, but breaker bars are sometimes required to get things started > torque = torque (??) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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11th May 2017 12:23am |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2271 
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I only use the land rover wheel wrench on my wheel nuts to tighten and loosen. Its length means that you cant overtighten the wheel nuts by hand and so do not need breaker bar or scaffold pole to undo them.
Over the last 20 odd years I've neither had a nut come loose nor been unable to undo a wheel nut at the roadside. I rather suspect the wheel wrench is that length for a reason 😉 Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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11th May 2017 7:16am |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4733
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I agree with the point about the Land Rover wheel brace which is what I use to tighten the nuts. Mine had been put on in a tyre fitting place two years ago and were torqued correctly...I had it written down! They just seem to tighten over time, I'm getting older!!
The ratchet enabled me to loosen the nuts without taking on and off the wheel brace. Sometimes when turning the brace it'll hit off the ground depending where the nut is. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel 1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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11th May 2017 9:45am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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The danger with a ratchet is the prawl inside can fail when trying to brake something free, sure you can buy a snap on one with it's life time warranty, but that just means they'll replace it when it breaks.
A breaker bar is better as there is no prawl to snap, and because they are hinged, so when you encounter the issue with it hitting the ground you just flip it out a bit to clear it. |
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11th May 2017 10:58am |
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