 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > cross member respray - what did i do wrong???? |
 
|
|
|
| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5109   
|
Depends how bad the rust was, surface rust is easy to cure but sometimes the rust has broken through from the rear. When you removed the rust spots did the cross member feel solid in those areas.
The only thing to do is to start again with the areas of the rust and if all good under the rust treat with a rust inhibitor, then prime and spray your top coat of choice. I would use a brown and grey Scotchbrite pad in that order as it is faster and achieves a good finish rather than wet and dry, although perhaps you could use 800 grade wet and dry to get the final prep as smooth as possible, just rub away at the rust areas with the scotchbrite pads to achieve bright metal if you can where the rust was, and try and feather the sanding into the existing paintwork so that when you spray the top coat the repair should be invisible. To be honest Halfords paint is rubbish in my opinion, use either Buzzweld black or Hammerite black satin much more durable. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
||
16th Apr 2017 5:11pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20304 
|
You need to use a chemical rust converter such as Kurust, before the etch primer.
That is all pretty much you did wrong. Also not a fan of Halfords paints etc. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
||
|
16th Apr 2017 5:16pm |
|
| Piggle Member Since: 24 May 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 78 
|
Thanks both for your help.
It is definitely surface rust rather than rusting through from behind. Seems not applying the rust inhibitor is the reason...best part of a day down the drain! Anyway thanks again for the speedy responses. |
||
|
16th Apr 2017 5:49pm |
|
| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
|
definitely the rust converter! wouldnt bother with etch primer either. ive had best results on the landie with red oxide primer (i know its not like it used to be, but still seems to work great)
|
||
|
16th Apr 2017 6:24pm |
|
| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
|
It depends what you mean by rubbed down the rust.
If you just rubbed it down to a smooth brown finish, then it's no good, you need nice bright steel. Alcohol (meths, brake cleaner etc) is better for degreasing the steel than white spirit. Use a flap wheel on a grinder to get the rust off, it'll make light work of it compared to doing it by hand and it's far less harsh and generates less heat than a grinding disc. If it's quite heavy rust and you cant get it all off (because you can't get to it, like on the top off the cross member for example use a rust converter on it. But don't apply rust converter to bright steel as it's got nothing to convert, and it'll just prevent the primer bonding properly. I good zinc rich primer will help prevent rust from returning. (Upol Zinc 182 for example) |
||
|
16th Apr 2017 8:09pm |
|
| Piggle Member Since: 24 May 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
|
Thanks...I rubbed all the rust off till only shiny steel was showing. Could fully understand the rust coming back so fast if had just primed over unremoved rust.
|
||
|
17th Apr 2017 5:39am |
|
| Landie Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: WA Posts: 22  
|
My 08 110 did exactly the same. Where the chassis rails intersect the rear crossmember was corroded. The only option was to cut out the section and kill rust. Also check the chassis rails whilst you doing that. Where the wiring harness runs can cause debris build up and moisture retention. Thouroughly clean inside and with a cavity lance spray something in there. Im not going to say what as this causes to many answers aftr my say. Hope this helps.
|
||
|
23rd Apr 2017 11:43pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
