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Rallymental



Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: The Garden of England
Posts: 468

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Painting galvanised steel
Apologies if this has been discussed before but I've done a search and can't quite find the answer.
Can anyone give advice on painting galvanised steel?
Fancy giving a galvanised steering guard a bit of a funky paint job

Thanks in advance for your advice Very Happy The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results.
Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years"
Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis.............................
Post #618851 23rd Apr 2017 10:20am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1218

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I would say degreaser then I'm pretty sure there are etch primers designed for galvanised stuff. Then choice of paint.

BTW recently tried Paint Man's prep cleaner, that is some great stuff for degreasing and particularly getting rid of glue etc from inside doors. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #618866 23rd Apr 2017 12:04pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20304

United Kingdom 
Key galvanised surface, panel wipe, etch prime, hi build primer, dry sand 600 grit, panel wipe, base coat, clear coat after around 14 - 22 hrs after base. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #618871 23rd Apr 2017 12:44pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
I've just done my galv chassis etc on my build thread, start off with checking for any extra galv deposits etc filing down as needed, then t-wash it all ( this is effectively an acid wash and speeds up the natural oxidisation of the galv), next is an etch primer this needs 3/4days to work properly before being painted over.

I have done a mini guide of sorts as part of my thread just trawl through Maggie's link below Thumbs Up 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #618884 23rd Apr 2017 2:16pm
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Kit



Member Since: 12 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 1110

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Scotia Grey
Mash wrote:
I've just done my galv chassis etc on my build thread, start off with checking for any extra galv deposits etc filing down as needed, then t-wash it all ( this is effectively an acid wash and speeds up the natural oxidisation of the galv), next is an etch primer this needs 3/4days to work properly before being painted over.

I have done a mini guide of sorts as part of my thread just trawl through Maggie's link below Thumbs Up


Agree with the above, make sure you let the etch primer 'bite' before putting anymore coatings on. 1993 200 Tdi 90 CSW
1956 Series 1 Hard-top
1958 Series 1 Soft-top
Post #618891 23rd Apr 2017 3:23pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20304

United Kingdom 
It is indeed a time consuming and labour intensive thing.

This is what many don't understand as to why paint shops cost so much.
Even the paint its self, especially metallics are costly. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #618902 23rd Apr 2017 4:43pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Exactly, i love it when you see someone who's scraped the side of their car and decided that he body shop wanted too much and that they could do just as good a job themselves with rattle cans to respray the entire rear quarter of their car. Laughing
Post #618930 23rd Apr 2017 6:34pm
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Rallymental



Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: The Garden of England
Posts: 468

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Thanks all very much for the advice, any thoughts on type of top coat paint or is it more important to get the base right? The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results.
Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years"
Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis.............................
Post #619017 23rd Apr 2017 11:32pm
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I want to get some new mudflap brackets, they come galvanised and would like to get them powder coated black.

Can galvanised parts be powdercoated ok? My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #619028 24th Apr 2017 6:44am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20304

United Kingdom 
Yes, yes you can powder coat glav no problem.

R.e. The base coat, that is the colour coat.
So do you mean the clear lacquer, the final finish?

Normally have around 2-3 coats of base, and similar for the clear coat. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #619133 24th Apr 2017 2:09pm
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
great news, i'll get some ordered...thanks! My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #619135 24th Apr 2017 2:32pm
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