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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Drive Flange Identification
Hello All

Does anyone recognise the Drive Flange Type shown on the left... Question

They are both 'standard' 24 spline Drive Flanges, Front & Rear (the push on rubber cap type).

The left hand Flange has the 'lugs' recessed to accept an H8 Hexagonal Drive Bolt
which when fitted leaves the Bolt Head projecting around 1mm proud of the Flange.

The right hand Flange is conventional, fixed by M17 Bolts

I'm trying to source the left hand Flange Type...


Click image to enlarge


Thanks... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #613779 1st Apr 2017 12:50pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1780

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
The metal is so thin around the socket head bolt, looks to me if someone has drilled a std one out - are the bottoms of the recesses angled as if drilled or flat as if milled?

Keith
Post #613782 1st Apr 2017 12:58pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

spline worn-out too
Post #613783 1st Apr 2017 1:19pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Keith ickle

They have been machined (square bottom) so an End Mill approx' Dia 16.0mm
to a Depth of around 10.0mm leaving a base thickness of 5.0mm

You may be right though, that this is a modification to a Standard Part, as you wouldn't
design it with a wall thickness at its outer most edge to be so thin.

Mine has Wheel Spacers and the conventional Bolt Head wont work within the rear recess
of the Spacer, the bolt head projects around 2-3mm too far. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #613784 1st Apr 2017 1:31pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
dorsetsmith wrote:
spline worn-out too


Hello dorsetsmith

Yes...both my rear Drive Flanges have 'fretted' (somewhat... Shocked )
I have replacement Drive Shafts ready to go and need to work around / with is...

Currently head scratching... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #613786 1st Apr 2017 1:35pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1780

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
When I ran aluminium spacers (30mm iirc) on my 100" bitsa, I used to shim the bolts so the flats lined up with the edge of the spacer and they fitted well - where is the interference issue on the spacer / wheel?
Post #613792 1st Apr 2017 1:58pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Keith ickle (Thanks for your input... Thumbs Up )

The interference (insufficient space) would be between the combined 'top surface' of the 5 Fixing Bolts
on the Standard Drive Flange if fitted and the rear of my current Spacer.

I think I have my answer...

This is my current Spacer (outside)

Click image to enlarge


This is my current Spacer (inside)

Click image to enlarge


This is my Current Spacer (left) against a Rakeway Spacer (used to carry my Spare Wheel)

Click image to enlarge


There is a 10mm difference and this is crucially enough to accept the Standard arrangement of
Drive Flange and conventional Bolt Heads.

My Vehicle was modified by BLR, and it is possible that they (or someone) took a 'creative engineering'
route to make this particular Spacer (left hand one) work.

I could not source it when I managed to source a 5th (matching) Wheel and so ended up with a
Rakeway (which looks good to me) as a way of carrying the Spare

Click image to enlarge


I think I'm going to replace all 4 current Spacers with 4 matching Rakeway Spacers, new Drive
Flanges also on the Front, new Drive Flange Bolts all round so that the set up is more or less back to
standard for the Drive Components anyway...

I'm not going to adapt the new Drive Flanges along similar lines, and the existing Spacer cannot be adapted as the rear of the inserted Studs would need to be machined, the only other option is to reduce the heads of the standard Bolts to half their height so also not really a solution.

I'm really please with the 90 overall it drives great, but this is now going to be sorted, it may be part
of the reason that the rear Flanges loosened up as there appears to be no loctite used in their installation
and you can't see them hidden within (behind) the Spacer

Oh well...better end result (when I get there) and no loss of drive out on the road...which was where I was heading

Thanks... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #613797 1st Apr 2017 3:35pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
From the pics it looks like there should be more than enough depth on the spacer to fit a standard drive flange with hex bolts. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #613828 1st Apr 2017 5:54pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
TBH you could just buy the standard ones and drill them out, either with a pillar drill or just get an engineering shop to do them for beer tokens.
Post #613844 1st Apr 2017 7:27pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
As others have suggested that is a standard flange which has been counterbored to accept the capscrews. It is a trivial machining job and would usually be done with a piloted counterbore in a vertical mill.
Post #613856 1st Apr 2017 7:48pm
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