 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma starting problem - battery good |
 
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| Defender08 Member Since: 16 Nov 2013 Location: Adelaide Posts: 20   
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I have 2008 110 with a second battery (optima yellow) that I can engage via a in-car switch.
At the first start (using the primary battery), on some mornings, I turn the ignition to pre-heat (all good) and then, after glow plug indicator goes out, I turn to start and get no turnover and lose all lights on dash. I switch in the second battery and the car starts immediately. Once the car has been started, it starts off the primary battery for the rest of the day. I've had an auto electrician test the primary battery and report that it is good and, further, that he could find no hesitation in starting the car with it for more than 10 times over the next two hours. Based on this observation he suggested that I have no problem with either the starter or associated circuits. I appreciate any suggestions about the likely source of the problem. |
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26th Mar 2017 1:42am |
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| Defender08 Member Since: 16 Nov 2013 Location: Adelaide Posts: 20
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Thanks Pannawonica, but only part of the fault could be considered intermittent - when the start fails with the primary battery (intermittent fault) it always starts when the second battery is switched in (non-intermittent solution).
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26th Mar 2017 6:00am |
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| BobT Member Since: 13 Jan 2017 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 110  
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I'm no expert but it maybe a "sticky" solenoid and the extra battery is giving enough power to get it going.
I too would recommend going to a specialist vehicle electrician. |
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26th Mar 2017 8:12am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 732  
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Have you removed and cleaned the terminals on the primary battery. May be a poor connection, causing the intermittent fault.
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26th Mar 2017 8:24am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637 
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Does the yellow battery have its own earthing point....
I.e. does it share the same positive connection into the main circuit but has its own earth to the chassis. If thats the case i'd be looking very closely at the primary batteries earth connection(s). Cheers Andy |
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26th Mar 2017 9:43am |
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| Alien Member Since: 18 Jan 2015 Location: Bacchus Marsh Posts: 230
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This is the same as what mine was doing.
After a few days of being parked up it wouldn't start, same symptoms as yours. I either roll started or flicked my DBS switch(Drivesafe's iso160) to use it, once started it never played up for the day. My trailer control has a volt meter in it and it was dropping below 9.5volts while trying to crank before jumping it. I had the battery tested after it had a 60 min run and it came back as good. 4 days of siting and it wouldn't start again so I removed the battery and had it tested before it got any charge. It tested at 60% capacity so I replaced it and it's all good now and holds higher voltages longer. Of topic... Will you be at Melrose? Maybe we could have d2 drinks at the thong tree? Cheers, Kyle. |
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26th Mar 2017 10:28am |
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| Defender08 Member Since: 16 Nov 2013 Location: Adelaide Posts: 20
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Thanks all.
Removed and cleaned primary terminals and the second battery shares earth connection with primary. My dad restored old cars and the mention of a stuck solenoid has me remembering my dad getting me to hit the solenoid of old English cars with wood whilst he tried the starter. Does this memory have anything to do with a stuck solenoid? |
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26th Mar 2017 11:48am |
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| Defender08 Member Since: 16 Nov 2013 Location: Adelaide Posts: 20
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Re sticky solenoid as a cause - this would not explain the loss of power to all instruments
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27th Mar 2017 3:14am |
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| Alien Member Since: 18 Jan 2015 Location: Bacchus Marsh Posts: 230
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The good old days of banging the solenoid was to make them engage.
There are a few reports of sticky solenoids on Puma's but in most cases it's a faulty ignition switch leaving power to the starter which then burns the starter out requiring replacing. I'm still leaning to a bad battery from my experience (as per my last post). Can you measure the voltage at the terminals while attempting to crank with a multi meter? Cheers, Kyle. |
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27th Mar 2017 3:58am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3643 
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Has the car got accessories running off the primary? How old is the primary? if its original it will be pretty close to the end of its useful life.
I suspect it will be either the primary battery or its connections, if it starts with the other battery it pretty much rules most other things out, might be worth checking the primary battery voltage about 10 mins after switching off and then about 12 hrs later, if the voltage has dropped after none use you may have a drain on the battery, any drain can easily be checked with an ammeter. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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27th Mar 2017 4:52am |
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| Defender08 Member Since: 16 Nov 2013 Location: Adelaide Posts: 20
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Thanks All
I'm working with a friend to set up a logger which will record battery voltage on a regular basis and, I'll then see if I can see any pattern. |
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28th Mar 2017 2:08am |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568
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I have a ultraguage and on a cold start the voltage display shows you that everything is meeting my expectation, regarding volt drop! However if you don't, a multimeter and an assistant obeserving voltage. Just a thought mate!
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28th Mar 2017 12:09pm |
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| Roverrobbie Member Since: 06 Feb 2016 Location: Orkney Posts: 17 
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Try swapping the batteries over to see if the fault persists.
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28th Mar 2017 7:33pm |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568
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How are you going? Sorted yet ?
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31st Mar 2017 10:37am |
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