 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > LTB00585 Difficulty Selecting Gears/Poor Gear Shift Quality |
 
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| dilukabey Member Since: 17 May 2011 Location: Sri Lanka Posts: 173  
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Cheers agentmulder.
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19th Aug 2016 2:43am |
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| Bomber82 Member Since: 20 Oct 2009 Location: Alessandria - Italy Posts: 216  
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Thank you MartinK for the very usefull guide!! Matteo
Defender 110 Td4 SE MY 09 |
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12th Oct 2016 9:48am |
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| Strang3rr Member Since: 26 May 2016 Location: St.Petersburg Posts: 8  
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Thanks. This helped a bit
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3rd Dec 2016 11:24am |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98  
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Has anyone experienced worse shifting AFTER installing those two spacers?
I've done everything as pointed on previous pages. Removed the gear selector  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Prepared the spacers Click image to enlarge Cleaned the stick and other components Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Put new grease all around Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge And after fixing those 13mm screws and than trying to fix those 4 torx, the gear selector becomes very stiff. Unscrewing torx screws helps, but than I have around 2mm gap between the plastic cover and the aluminuim base. Next try was to tighten the Torx screw first, and than 13mm screws and it is better but still it is far from perfect. I can't test it with the engine running and pressed clutch as at the moment it's not ready to start yet, but I don't think it is at it should be.. Any idea? |
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14th Dec 2017 10:59pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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I remember thinking it was daft design having 4 bolts to clamp the ball joint as there will always be one doing much less work, should just be three. Took a fiddle to get them just right.
Similar logic to why three legged chairs are self stabilising, but four legged aren't... Edit^^ just realised I already bagged on about this last year  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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14th Dec 2017 11:14pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Seems like fourth one is doing too much work in my case
What do you suggest is to play with it while moving the gear stick? I found the best fitting with the torx screws fixed and than fixing the 13mm while the gearstick was pushed toward the reverse gear direction. But it's still far from perfect..  |
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15th Dec 2017 8:22am |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167  
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Great write up.
Probably a stupid question but is it really necessary to remove the diff lock H/L assembly and slacken off all 4 bolts? Or can it be done by just removing the 2 bolts that get the new bushes? Or (more than likely) have i completely misunderstood the process?  Cheers,
Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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7th Feb 2018 2:34am |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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If you remove just two screws you won't be able to adjust the position of the assembly and might not be able to insert new bushes.
In my case I was not able to insert them with just two (even three) screws removed, as without the bushes the assebly was moved and holes didn't match. As there is a collar on the new bushes it needs to go into the screw hole and that is why everything must be loose to match it properly. Hope you know what I mean  |
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7th Feb 2018 3:23pm |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167
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understood, thanks Simon
Cheers,
Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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7th Feb 2018 3:48pm |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55  
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Ho hum. The the last few months the gear change has gotten all horrid and notchy. I have difficulty changing from 1st to 2nd when cold and even 3rd is taking a bit of judgement. It was never like this before.
I have changed the clutch fluid. I have changed the gearbox oil with the proper stuff from Land Rover. It's a bit better but not really fixed. Next I was planning on taking the gear stick apart and cleaning and greasing everything. Now I am not really a mechanic. I am not even an amateur mechanic. If I can balls it up I will. So can someone kindly tell me the best grease to grease a gearstick?  I got the spacers so I'll fit them whilst I am at it.
Its a 2008 Defender TDCI with 90,000 on the clock. |
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7th Aug 2018 8:06pm |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55
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 Flipping doing my nut in this ....I have the Jeckell and Hyde Land Rover from Hell 
Monday: - not a problem, I do the 'I love you' Land Rover gear changes, nice and slow, easy on the throttle, not a problem.. Tuesday: - OMG absolute PIG to drive, every gear shift from one to six, difficult getting it out of gear, difficult getting it into gear, I am double de-clutching and swearing for all I am worth, it improves a bit after thirty minutes of driving Wednesday: beautiful sweet as a nut not a care in the world So far I have changed the clutch fluid. I have checked master and slave cylinders for leaks and there are none, the clutch fluid reservoir fluid remains at the correct level. The clutch pedal is 143mm from the floor the recommended is distance 140 mm, simple to adjust but surely it cant be this. The clutch pedal depresses about an inch before it engages and it engages firmly without sponginess. I have removed the gearstick added the recommended spacers greased with LITHIUM grease the ball and the arm thingy as best I could. I have changed the gearbox oil for the expensive Land Rover Castrol stuff. No potato. I live in rural France. The nearest Land Rover mechanic is an hour away and is on holiday till September and is usually too busy to see me. If I take it the local Renault garage they will do it but really I have to tell them what to do. The thing is I don't have enough experience to know what is wrong. Is it internal to the clutch or is it the gearbox itself ? How can I tell ? My next best guess is to change the clutch for a 2.2 clutch replacement kit from Ashcroft and ask the Renault garage to do it. But I would feel more confident in doing this if I knew exactly what was wrong. I rang Ashcroft and Mr Ashcroft is away on holiday. So I am looking for a Land Rover good Samaritan to guide me. |
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15th Aug 2018 8:16am |
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| Gonarezhou Member Since: 08 Mar 2015 Location: White River Posts: 178  
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What was the result? Pilot bearing failure?
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2nd Oct 2018 1:17pm |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55
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I called ASHCROFT. They told me that on a 2008 Defender that springs on the clutch plate were weak and that these clutches had a tendancy to drag. The recommended that I buy a new stronger clutch plate, a new pilot release bearing and the various gubbins to fit it all together. I then waited six weeks until my French Land Rover mechanic had gotten back from his summer holidays and could fit me in. He replaced the clutch, and all the bits as recommended by ASHCROFT, re-checked the hydraulics, changed the oil, changed the filters and lubed the prop shafts. The result has been a dramatic improvement. Interestingly enough when I handed the mechanic the keys the 1st thing he did was open the box of parts and locate the pilot bearing ! What does the pilot bearing do ?
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2nd Oct 2018 1:53pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20342 
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I have only just come across this thread due to being discussed in another's thread.
I missed it at the time and currently have access to this area by chance with the matting out the way already. The annoying gearstick weight rattle has came back a little too which I will cure but I'm just wondering if this would be worthwhile me doing this mod too as I don't think this has been done on mine. I think the classic clip on 'tripod' thing is broken on mine from memory, I have no idea how as I certainly didn't do it. Does anyone know the P/N for this piece? My gear changes seem fine, I find the gearstick when in gear seems a bit loose and waggles about a little bit forward and back but not side to side. It likely needs lubing again anyway, would I be right in thinking that these bolts may have became a little loose? Or possibly wear on the Nylon ball instead of both? It seemed to start when I had issues with my prop UJ's when the trans was being shifted about and vibrating when a UJ was failing. Since it's been better now I've done the UJ's etc but it's still there, so wondering if the fixings are a little loose. It could be coincidence of course. I must lube all the linkages too whilst at it as suggested by Blackwolf. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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28th Jan 2019 11:01pm |
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