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blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17344

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

dilukabey wrote:
Guys, what makes you to replace the vcv? As far as i know there won't be any dtc's when the vcv is malfunctioned. What are the symptoms/signs that i should change the vcv? Cheers.

Any if the following:-
- Flat spots
- Poor acceleration
- Erratic tickover
- Hunting
- Failure to start
- Just about any other problem that incorrect fuelling can cause

... in the absence of a DTC suggests that the VCV is the culprit.

It is the presence of a fault in the absence of a DTC that suggests the VCV is the problem.

7th Feb 2017 4:50pm

dilukabey

Member Since: 17 May 2011
Location: Sri Lanka
Posts: 173

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green

Many thanks for your reply Blackwolf. I am thinking to change the vcv too. Only problem for me is to do the pilot learning as i doubt whether there are any mechanics who can do this for me in this part of the world. Can i run the car without pilot correction after vcv replcement with no halm?

7th Feb 2017 5:01pm

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

If your VCV is faulty the learning procedures for it (in it's original state) are already off

Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

7th Feb 2017 5:48pm

Pinky

Member Since: 09 Jun 2016
Location: England
Posts: 208

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Baltic Blue

blackwolf wrote:
Pinky wrote:
Just had mine done, changed the common rail sensor at the same time as I was advised to always change them as a pair. And yes, you must pilot learn after fitting. Be careful buying cheap parts as they may not pilot learn and then you're up the proverbial creek without a paddle!

I'd advise that too if I was selling you the sensor!

The common rail sensor is much more reliable than the VCV. I am on VCV No 3 and still the original pressure sensor and relief valve at 203,000 miles.

It wasn't the seller that advised me, it was a friend who works on nothing but Transits and they get as many come back in for the sensor after the VCV that they always advise to change both, saves two visits!

7th Feb 2017 6:38pm

B4Lamb

Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: Abergavenny, Wales
Posts: 233

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green

blackwolf wrote:
Pinky wrote:
Just had mine done, changed the common rail sensor at the same time as I was advised to always change them as a pair. And yes, you must pilot learn after fitting. Be careful buying cheap parts as they may not pilot learn and then you're up the proverbial creek without a paddle!

I'd advise that too if I was selling you the sensor!

The common rail sensor is much more reliable than the VCV. I am on VCV No 3 and still the original pressure sensor and relief valve at 203,000 miles.

I have managed to get a VCV on order from UKDieselParts.com for £65 incl VAT and delivery and 1 year warranty. They seem to have a good reputation, I will find out soon won't I? Unless the valve is widely out I cannot see how it would not calibrate. My understanding is the valve opening is controlled from a Pulse Width modulated signal from the ECM, so it is proportionally controlled. So the calibration is all about how far it does open for a certain pulse width signal by measuring the output of the high pressure pump and the results are stored back in the ECM. From what I read there is production tolerance that is not precisely controllable hence the need to characterise the valve with the high pressure pump as a pair. I'm not certain I need a new pressure sensor in the end of the high pressure rail, the existing one seems to be generating sensible pressure values according to the diagnostics but I guess these could be some way out of calibration.

Thanks for all your help on this, Ill update when I have more results to share.

John (aka b4lamb) "You are never to old to learn something new"

7th Feb 2017 9:16pm

B4Lamb

Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: Abergavenny, Wales
Posts: 233

dilukabey wrote:
Guys, what makes you to replace the vcv? As far as i know there won't be any dtc's when the vcv is malfunctioned. What are the symptoms/signs that i should change the vcv? Cheers.

Hi you best read this thread which gives details of the common symptoms.

Home > Puma TDCi > Eratic Idle especially when cold

John "You are never to old to learn something new"

7th Feb 2017 9:35pm

TopQ1967

Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 236

2012 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Buckingham Blue

agentmulder wrote:
Just did this, can be done in situ.

The only part I removed, I did by mistake - a tube came out of the vacuum pump, nothing but air in it and area I was working in was clean so no probs.

It's the tube with the silver sheath, made it a little easier. WSM states it can be undone no issues.

I used 1/4" socket with a hex adaptor on wobble extensions and a universal. Getting the bolts out and back in is actually easy, cleaning the gasket mating face and getting the valve in with gasket and o-ring tact and clean - that's the fiddle.

What is the hex size? I tried 3,5 and 4 mm 3,5 is to small, 4 mm seems to big.
How did you get a wrench there I tried various small (Snap-on) tools but I cannot go there due to cables and pipes.

13th Feb 2017 2:10pm

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey

Just checked the one I have kicking about and they are 5mm 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

13th Feb 2017 2:22pm

TopQ1967

Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 236

thank you!

13th Feb 2017 2:30pm

TopQ1967

Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 236

No, 5 mm will not fit even 4 mm is slightly to big..

Is it in a 2.4 as tight as in a 2.2?

Non of the tinny Snap-on tools will fit, only a long hex key (presuming I have the right size) will do the trick. Otherwise I have to remove the inlet manifold completely.

Click image to enlarge

This is a long hex key in 4 mm that is to big in size..

Click image to enlarge

Hardly any space available (and I have removed some tyraps already.

13th Feb 2017 2:57pm

TopQ1967

Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 236

ian series 1 wrote:
Just checked the one I have kicking about and they are 5mm

Ian, It is quite possible the thread size is 5mm. But what hex socket will fit in?

13th Feb 2017 3:05pm

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

The one i have fitted to a spare pump
Is 5mm hex.

It is easier to take inlet manifold off, and a simple job. 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

13th Feb 2017 3:26pm

TopQ1967

Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 236

Parhaps simple but a lot of work, for only a 2 screw sensor...

There is a bracket above the last bulkhead side bold that holds the inletmanifold. I cannot access the bolt ... grr..
Think I have to bleed the heater and remove the hoses to access the bottom of the inlet. Or is it secured with clips?
At the rear of the inlet manifold there is a tube secured with bolts too.

This is going to take some time... Anyone else faced the same problems? It looked so easy... swopping a sensor..

13th Feb 2017 3:50pm

TopQ1967

Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 236

double post..

13th Feb 2017 3:57pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

What tools are you using fir the pilot learn? What is envolved with that?

I'm assuming if you have a tuned map, that needs to be changed back to standard map first.

Then proceed onto VCV change then the pilot learn, is that correct?

It possible combined with my other thread as Ian suggested that this might be my issue too, although just starting to be at least.
Are most of the issues related to engine cold and after starting or issues at all temps? Mines fine when warm but a bit temperamental when very cold. âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA ðŸ‡¬ðŸ‡§ðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸ âï¸âï¸

13th Feb 2017 5:06pm

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