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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Lazer rs8 wiring
Anybody able to decipher better the wiring diagram than me?


Is ignition positive live? Same what I'd use For my drl bumper?



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Post #600714 10th Feb 2017 5:46pm
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Buz



Member Since: 24 Jan 2014
Location: Forest of Dean
Posts: 238

United Kingdom 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Barolo Black
Yep, switched live so that it only comes on with the ignition
Post #600716 10th Feb 2017 5:53pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
And the side light / headlight wires, do I just splice into the positive?
Post #600719 10th Feb 2017 6:01pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

United Kingdom 
How were you hoping to use it? Using ignition switched live means it will run like a DRL so it'll be on all the time the ignition and engine is running.

Any taps would be live on dipped or main beam etc.

Try and use solder and heatshrink connections if you can rather than scotchlock type connectors. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #600729 10th Feb 2017 6:21pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I wanted to run it switched, drl always on and then switch on dash for the non drl portion of the rs8
Post #600745 10th Feb 2017 6:59pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

United Kingdom 
"The RS range also includes Daytime Running Light (DRL) which dim to become position/park lights when the vehicles lights are activated (*Auto Dimming). "

Sounds so the me that the ignition live switches on the DRL. It'll keep it on with ignition and engine running.
On dipped beam, the RS8's DRL's auto dim to position lights.
On main beam, the spot feature of them will turn on. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #600749 10th Feb 2017 7:09pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Hi,

I've got that far, drls running, just have to wire in the main beam I guess,

It's the two that come from the lightbar end of the loom I'm unsure where to connect


Do I just wire into the side light / headlight positive feed for each respectively ?
Post #600756 10th Feb 2017 7:28pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

United Kingdom 
As they auto dim if you connect to the sidelight they'll DRL dim with sidelight and dipped.
If you connect to dipped they'll dim on dipped only but your DRL will stay on with sidelights.

Main beam will simply operate the spotlight feature which is easy enough.

Might be worth checking the switching legalities as to what DRL's should be lit with what lights at the same time.
I know there are some, as you wouldn't want to complete the wiring work and splice into the loom to then have to change it.

Hope that helps, the jist is you have a choice between dipped lights or sidelight when I comes to the DRL. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Last edited by custom90 on 10th Feb 2017 9:38pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #600762 10th Feb 2017 7:48pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
still a little puzzled to be fair...

i have everything behind this connected, which gives me drl only,

if going off these..



i splice the top into the side light,

and splice the bottom into the high beam wire as seen here?





cheers for the help...
Post #600790 10th Feb 2017 9:15pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

United Kingdom 
Yes, that's correct.
That should give you a position light on with sidelights and dipped and spot on full beam.
This is how I understand their iterating functions of be anyway.

Wiring to the LR headlight feeds, on the passenger side the main beam wire colour is blue / white, can't recall the drivers side.
Easy to check, just check for voltage in the plug with main beam on or off just to be sure.

Hope that helps. Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #600794 10th Feb 2017 9:34pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
very helpful...

will get on with it tomorrow morning, colors are probably wrong as i have a landreiziger loom
Post #600796 10th Feb 2017 9:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

United Kingdom 
I'd take your tap off the LR loom if I was you, it'll add a smal circa 150mA load onto the LR light switch but it will keep your Land Reziger loom providing the most current to your purely directly to your headlights.

As you've got a spare H4 connector on the LR loom, probably on the passenger side you could use a standard pre insulated spade terminal or a male H4 connector and just plug in and not have to solder or splice into that at all. (The H4plug left over unused from the LR's loom.)
The other is used as trigger feeds for your Land Reziger room.

Also the sidelight feeds, if you have Nolden headlights with position light and the loom for this form 4x4 overlander you could splice into that instead of the LR loom.
Or make up a piggyback loom with Econoseal connectors.

Choice is yours, but some ideas as to what I would do.

Hope all goes well. Thumbs Up

Apologies for the typos, iPad is typing for me tonight. Rolling Eyes $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #600801 10th Feb 2017 9:46pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
hopefully the missing pieces of my hannibal rack turn up too... have a Lazer triple r 24 to install too...

went way overboard with lighting lately Shocked
Post #600808 10th Feb 2017 9:53pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

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Haha, know the school of thinking. Expensive too. Laughing

What wattage draw do they have? I have some red 33A 3mm2 thinwall cable in unslit convoluted tube which would be long enough for that.
You could have that if you wanted I took it off mine the other day as I don't need my spots wired back to the battery now.

Any good to you? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #600817 10th Feb 2017 10:05pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2640

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
i got a huge kit put together by Landreiziger, I'm running everything including my big amps off a bluesea 150, i bought all the correct extension looms for the Lazers but think I'm just going to cut / solder using what landreiziger supplied as its nothing special.

the biggest concern so far is the utility 80; its freaking huge...... haven't plugged it in but looks way too overkill for a work light / reversing light Laughing


This was mid install still had a few consumers to connect and tidy it all up


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Post #600827 10th Feb 2017 10:17pm
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