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BLACK LAB



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: AYRSHIRE
Posts: 165

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
If you just go for Wipac crystals and the nightbreaker bulbs do you need to take it through a relay harness ?
Just asking the question before I go and order stuff maybe .

I take it that the LED route does not require a relay harness or alteration of wiring to stop the switch burning out ?
Post #587118 23rd Dec 2016 12:33am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Nightbreaker bulbs will be same 55/60 watt as standard halogens, guess that answers the first question. I actually had the Landreiziger loom already with my Speaker leds, that avoided occasional flickering when lights would be on with contact on but without engine running. Occasionally before the Landreiziger loom the Speaker leds then would flicker as voltage via the switch would be lower than 12V when reaching the lights. With the loom that was immediately a thing of the past.
I now am back to my standard SVX Cristals with upgraded Land Rover halogen bulbs, and thanks to the loom that is pretty good, and important to me, looks original.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #587121 23rd Dec 2016 5:22am
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BLACK LAB



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: AYRSHIRE
Posts: 165

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
So if nightbreaker bulbs are the same wattage why are people telling me on another thread to take it through a relay and wiring harness such as a Boomslang ? Whats wrong with just changing the headlamp and bulb but still using the original wiring ?
Post #587215 23rd Dec 2016 4:24pm
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apt100



Member Since: 05 Mar 2015
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 1547

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
They are (hopefully) advising you to do the relay modification to get the full benefit of the new lamps.
If anyone is saying you need to do the mod because of the new lamps, then they have misunderstood. Thumbs Up
Post #587216 23rd Dec 2016 4:31pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20440

United Kingdom 
I think the whole thing with the switch failure is overdone.

Yes it probably will one day, at some point but that hasn't been for me in 55k or 6 1/2 years.

They are Lucas branded in a green box around £40 on eBay too so why worry.
It would however be good to carry a spare, but then why not carry 3x spare wheels just in case?
I've ran Crystals with Philips extreme for at least 3 or four years now, no issues.

The add on looms are okay but it is adding more wiring to fail, over complicating things aren't always the best.

However, each to his own. Idea

If you fit LED headlights, the current draw is much reduced and the likelihood of failiure probably reduced by around a third.
(Haven't got the exact wattage to hand.) $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #587221 23rd Dec 2016 4:46pm
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allybee73



Member Since: 31 Aug 2016
Location: Essex
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 
So if Wipacs with decent bulbs get you a certain % gain over stock, where do the forum think the £150 range of eBay Chinese special LEDs fit? There's no way I'd be prepared to pay £500 on as set of LED headlights as I don't do enough night driving to justify it. But I'm tempted by a set for £150. I do like the light from LED headlights as my last couple of cars have had LED lights.
Post #587262 23rd Dec 2016 7:17pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20440

United Kingdom 
There are cheaper LEDs yes, but their output is lesser than Speaker / Nolden.

I know the Noldens are expensive but they have the best output compared to all the rest.
I can't justify it at Christmas but not adhock. Laughing

For the price from standard Crystals are the best upgrade fur value & output.

In January coming up shortly I'll all being well be removing my Crystals and Philips extreme bulbs over for a pair of Noldens.
They are the Genuine Wipcac Crystals.

What ever you change to the beam will likely be out of alignment, you can either adjust yourself or get them aligned for just a few quid.
I prefer the latter as they can get the accuracy spot on, and once it's done it's done. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #587269 23rd Dec 2016 7:44pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20440

United Kingdom 
BLACK LAB wrote:
So if nightbreaker bulbs are the same wattage why are people telling me on another thread to take it through a relay and wiring harness such as a Boomslang ? Whats wrong with just changing the headlamp and bulb but still using the original wiring ?

Nothing at all, straight swap no issues. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #587270 23rd Dec 2016 7:47pm
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BLACK LAB



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: AYRSHIRE
Posts: 165

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Is it not better through a relay to give a wee bit more voltage down at the lamps resulting in a bit more brightness and also so it doesnt burn out the light switch ? Is that not the point of it all ? From what I have read it seems to be the aim ? Thanks ?
Post #588906 31st Dec 2016 5:28am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Post #588907 31st Dec 2016 5:52am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
On our red 110 owned from 1 year old had to replace a light switch when it was 12 years old. Now 20 years old and still on the second switch. Replaced the original headlights with Noldens last winter.

So in my experience headlight switches burning out is not a major issue. IF you are seriously worried about headlight switches burning out then I would suggest a complete separate driving light system.


Light output from a standard headlight bulb is dependent on several factors, such as the gas inside the bulb, filament design etc. A driver has no control over these factors apart from changing type of bulb used.

A replacement headlight reflector and or lens may improve light output if say the reflector is getting tarnished with age or headlight lens scratched and damaged so not being so efficient.

A new wiring harness may well improve the voltage at the headlight H4 connector. Higher voltage at the connector equals a higher current flowing through the resistance of the filament. Higher current equals higher temperature of the filament equals higher light output. All true.

However it is not a win win situation.

Higher temperature of filament = higher light output = shorter lifespan of filament. Therefore requirement to change bulbs more frequently.

Have read various studies on life time of headlight bulbs and they use different failure rates of the bulbs. Now I can not remember if those studies were fully lab based or real life based. In real life a headlight bulb suffers from things such as physical shock. Hit a pothole at speed, with higher voltage, with filament at higher temperature AND lower physical strength equals increased failure rate.

Next time you drive on a busy road at night time just count how many cars have one headlight out!


Brendan
Post #588924 31st Dec 2016 9:37am
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Always find your articles very imformative Brendan, thank you for sharing your knowledge. 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90
Post #588927 31st Dec 2016 9:49am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
As you know I have reverted back from the Speaker EVO to my original SVX Wipac Cristals and uprated H4 bulbs bought from my dealer as an official LR accessory, part number VPLDV0061. The light output of those with the Landreiziger loom is considerably better than without the loom and the original standard H4 bulbs. Actually better than the Evoque with halogens I have been driving over Xmas in Belgium. The high beam of my SVX, i.e. the combo of the 7 inch high beam plus the standard 90mm SVX driving lights is just fabulous, much better than any LED high beam on their own, and light years better than the high beam of the Evoque with its halogen double high beam lamps. Think only one of those big LED light bars can do better than my high beam, certainly not Nolden, Speaker or Trucklite high beam on their own.
My Wipac Cristals and uprated H4 bulbs are in use again now exactly a year, have not given up yet, but admit that I do little mileage, and most of it then is in the day time when only my DRL will be on.
The only reason why I reverted back to the halogens is looks, I did never like the combination of my halogen aux 90mm driving lamps together with the LED 7 inch Speaker. Don't think the mix and match of halogen and LED looks right, a bit amateuristic imo. My truck now at all times shows either LED or halogens, meaning front it will be LED DLR, which will fully turn off once I turn on the normal bulb parking lights or the halogen low or high beam, as well as the normal bulb turn signals. So never a combo of LED plus normal bulb or halogen. At the rear however, thanks to the SVX standard LED lamps, plus the Mobilecenter LED turnsignals, plus the Wipac LED number plate lamp, plus the Naka LED 3rd brake light, my truck is fully LED now. Sounds a bit like rivet counting I guess. Laughing
Now to be honest, I am the first to admit that while my Wipac Cristals are producing sufficient low beam light for me, the low beam of LED headlights, be it Speaker, Nolden or TruckLite, are just another leap above low beam of my Wipac Cristal 7 inch. No comparison really. Thumbs Up
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw


Last edited by ericvv on 1st Jan 2017 7:25am. Edited 9 times in total
Post #588928 31st Dec 2016 9:52am
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apt100



Member Since: 05 Mar 2015
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 1547

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
A Quartz Halogen lamp typically reduces the lifespan by 50% when subjected to voltage 5% above the design value. Unlike a simple tungsten filament though, a reduction in voltage below the design value doesn't necessarily result in longer life, it can be reduced if the filament isn't hot enough for the halogen cycle to work.

The loom upgrade I understand is intended to present the correct design voltage at the lamp (ie the voltage it would typically see in the majority of other modern vehicles). It isn't intended to provide a voltage that exceeds the design value.
Post #588955 31st Dec 2016 2:52pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
The electrical system of a car is considered to be a nominal 12 volts and many manufacturers use 13.2 volts as a working voltage or a test voltage.

Osram Night Breakers specification states 13.2 volts as a test voltage

Now people are contacting various headlight wiring looms direct to the alternator where the output is about 14.6 volts

Quote:


If you apply more, the lamp shines brighter, but it ages considerably faster, too. Five percent excess voltage costs you 50 percent in lamp life! A lamp that runs continuously on 14.5 volts or more will soon burn out. Excess voltage is the most common cause of premature failure.

[/qoute]

Taken from [url=https://www.carlightblog.com/2012/08/16/the-critical-1-5-volts-high-on-board-voltage-short-lamp-life/]here


Now look at Osram specification for Night Breaker Unlimited

B3 = 150 hours. That means 97% of bulbs will last 150 hours or 3% will fail

Tc = 300 hours. That means 67% of bulbs will have failed or 33% will still be working

Note these figures are taken at a test voltage of 13.2 volts.


Now taken together with the first quote that 5% over voltage will reduce life span by 50% then you could expect 67% of Osram Night Breaker Unlimited bulbs to fail within 150 hours


Now look at Osram specification for Original Line

B3 = 300-1100 hours. That means 97% of bulbs will last at least 300 hours or 3% will fail

Tc = 600-2400 hours. That means 67% of bulbs will have failed between 600-2,400 hours or 33% will still be working

Note these figures are taken at a test voltage of 13.2 volts.

So on Osram own data the standard original headlight bulbs will last much longer then the Night Break lights

Now LED headlights have a life span of 50,000 hours, now I have no idea if that is to the B3 or Tc specification or a completely different specification.


So yes improving voltage at the headlight H$ connector will improve light output. Go above 13.2 volts then you may well shorten lifespan of bulb

Go for brighter headlight bulb then shorter life span over original headlight bulbs

Good LED headlights can work at voltages as low as 9v

Whichever decision you decide to take please make it a fully informed decision.


Brendan
Post #588970 31st Dec 2016 4:17pm
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