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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582  
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What current draw your winch will have depends on your actual make of winch and the actual force required.
Typical maximum current s in the range 400-500 amps at maximum force etc.. Now if you double line/use a pulley then basically half the load and roughly half the current draw. Two standard battery isolator switches one with red handle rated at 100 amps and a metal key one rated at 200 amps. Please note this rating is for continuous use. They are capable of IIRC 500 and 1000 amps for short periods of time. We use the red handle ones for occasional winching. There are Albright battery/winch isolator relays at least one is rated at 250 amps. Talk to David at Goodwinch or Jake at Devon 4x4 for advice. HTH Brendan |
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13th Dec 2016 8:32am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
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13th Dec 2016 8:41am |
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| OlavLRD110 Member Since: 03 Sep 2015 Location: Tallinn Posts: 20  
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http://www.gruner.de/ablage/med_00000234_1...13-750.pdf
how to connect:http://forum.uazbuka.ru/showthread.php?t=96323 (pictures to help) I have it and works good. |
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13th Dec 2016 10:26am |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917 
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Hi.
I have an Albright SU280P in the battery box and when I have 5 minutes will run the wires up to the dash so winch isolation is a simple switch. |
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13th Dec 2016 10:32am |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888  
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Technically your winch already has an isolator in the form of the solenoid(s) that control it.
Adding a second isolator is a good idea though and for mine I use an Albright solenoid, the rating of which is as good or better than the main winch control solenoid. I wire the control for mine through a switch on the dash that gets it's supply form the ignition, that way when the ignition is turned off the winch has no power to it regardless of the switch position. It also means that killing the vehicle electrics via the standard red key isolator switch also kills the winches. There are two Albright solenoids easily available, for most purposes the cheaper and lower duty one is adequate for a winch (you'll find it's specs are pretty much identical to most of the winch control solenoids people are using) https://www.devon4x4.com/albright-hd-battery-isolator.html The heavy duty one is probably overkill but if you want belt and braces... https://www.devon4x4.com/albright-su280-isolator-250a.html If you have internal or external winch controls other than a plugin lead you should provide the power for those through your dashboard kill switch too. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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13th Dec 2016 11:41am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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I have one of these for isolating the winch within the cab.
300a continuous, 1200a for 30s rated. Nice bit of kit from bluesea. Does mean you need to run the cable in the cab though. |
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13th Dec 2016 1:20pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5852 
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I purchased one of these
http://www.goodwinch.com/shop/electrical/a...-solenoid/ Intend on fitting a switch on the dash for turning it on/off 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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13th Dec 2016 1:31pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8066  
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for a low current switch to activate the 'master winch' power i would use an albright as linked above to Goodwinch or Devon 4x4.
note Warn do an isolator too as std 'issue' with their winches which is low current switched. if using a manual switch i would use a Durite master switch. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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13th Dec 2016 2:42pm |
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| AJC Member Since: 30 Nov 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1364
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I fit this, that came with my Goodwinch, i made a little bracket and bolted it through an existing hole so there were no new holes drilled
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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13th Dec 2016 3:50pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8066
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i use those for 12v TDS units and the durite master switches for 8274 twin tops. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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13th Dec 2016 4:20pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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I use the same switch, but fitted it in a wing locker. The power is taken from the starter solenoid: less cable length and the cable from battery to starter motor/solenoid is already there and rated for high currents. Click image to enlarge Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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13th Dec 2016 4:44pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888
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While fitting it under the bonnet may be useful for maintenance and anti-vandalism purposes, I don't really see the point in an isolator switch that's not accessible without opening the bonnet unless you always winch with the bonnet open and never winch through or up anything which you can't walk beside the vehicle on ? You could achieve pretty much the same thing by moving the winch solenoid under the bonnet.
If your winch solenoid jammed in an activated position (the time when you REALLY need a secondary isolator) you'd need to open the bonnet before you could turn it off. You're sat in the cab winching up a hill when smoke starts to rise from the front and the winch keeps going even when you let go of the control button. You then pull the bonnet release, have to go to the front next to the still active winch to release the bonnet secondary catch and prop the bonnet open, run all the way around the vehicle (to avoid stepping or leaning over a live winch rope and risk getting sucked into the winch or losing your nut sack and all it's contents) to get to the offside and activate the isolator switch... not really a practical solution in an emergency. I recently had to use mine "in anger" while winching up a stupidly steep hill when, half way up the hill smoke started issuing from the centre of the dashboard. I moved my left hand from the winch control to the red key between the two front seats and simultaneously killed the power to every circuit in the vehicle, including the winches, in one movement. In that situation the hill was actually too steep for me to get out of the vehicle at all, never mind open the bonnet ! It turned out not to be the winch, it was the switch for the air compressor, but it didn't really matter because I didn't have to figure that out, all I had to do to stop the smoke turning into a fire was turn off a single switch that I could reach despite being on a near vertical slope, held in by my seat belt, hanging off the end of a winch rope, the brake of which being the only thing stopping the vehicle going backwards down the hill. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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13th Dec 2016 4:55pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039 
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I 100% agree on that you should be able to use the emergency switch while being in your seat. Mine is located next to the fuse box as this way I can reach it with my hand or I can kick it out with my left foot.
Stay away from the cheap wireless remote if have seen and heard occasions when the winch continued after not pushing the button anymore. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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13th Dec 2016 7:35pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8066
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i concur but i think it also depends how much winching your doing or is it a convenience fit? Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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13th Dec 2016 8:36pm |
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