 | Home > Td5 > To waxoyl, or not to waxoyl . . . |
 
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981  
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Hi Greenmachine,
I took it to Davro Motor Services in Peterborough. They used Dinitrol 3125 cavity wax and Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax. Cost £440 in 2007. No drips or splashes. Probably why they wanted it for a week, unless they towed in cars with it! BTW, Dinitrol can be removed by aggressive greenlaning. Merlin  |
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6th Feb 2011 11:10am |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000
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I plan to try them. |
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9th Feb 2011 1:01am |
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| Double Trigger Member Since: 02 Feb 2011 Location: Tonbridge, Kent Posts: 14 
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According to another forum the nozzle on the aerosol cans tends to clog up frequently during use. Based on that I used the Hammerite with waxoyl in a tin version which you apply with a stiffish brush.It's pretty solid and wax like, goes on easily even in to tight cracks. I treated a Series 3 this week in under 3 hours for the whole of the underneath. The product seems really good and doesn't drip everywhere, I'd recommend it.
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9th Feb 2011 5:04pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Last bloke I know tried them and threw them in the bin - did not work, just what I heard but may not have used them correctly. I can see how they might be tricky to use if they have the "original" Waxoyl in them. Don't forget the "original" stuff is only an inhibitor so treat the rust first if it is practical and it may need re-applying every two years as stated on the can if doing it yourself. Acid based rust strippers or converters are the way to go if it is practical to use them. Also as said, don't trap rust underneath a product if you can help it, it may look tidy but it is all rotting away underneath and you won't be able to keep a check on it.
Really suggest looking at the Dinitrol & Shultz products spoken about here as well as new products such as POR-15 They are used by professional restorers and some in the car manufacturing industry. POR-15 is a real breakthrough product from America, it's quite unbelievable stuff, as said flexible and can not be chipped with a hammer. I have it on my flexing parabolics! It does however need protecting from UV light with a layer of Chassis Black or equivalent. You have to use a scoop provided to get the stuff out of the can, because if it touches the rim it will be sealed for life - yes I did this and had to chop the top of the can off  It's not cheap!
Some products although better known are not necessarily better. For example If you wanted something to ease off a stiff nut most would go into Halfords and buy a can of WD40 instead of Plus Gas!!! I hope this helps, I try to only give advice if I am confident I really do know the answers and have experienced first hand the products being discussed! I'm not interested in winning an argument for argument's sake. I would rather get the correct advice across to the OP. People will lose confidence in the forum if incorrect or inaccurate advice is given. This topic seems continual on some classic car forums so it might be worth a look at one of those also
Right can lighten up now, where's my beer 
, Last edited by Zagato on 9th Feb 2011 5:17pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Feb 2011 5:06pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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or locally, go to crook brothers in PR5 - £160 for the whole thing including chassis injection etc |
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9th Feb 2011 5:13pm |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000
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That's cheap! I thought they just sold ex MOD stuff. Did that include doing inside the doors and bulkhead too? |
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9th Feb 2011 5:37pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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No they do all sorts
They didn't do my doors I dont think. Give Graeme a ring, tell him you know me |
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9th Feb 2011 5:47pm |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000
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Thank you big Mike.
Hopefully I will get to know you out on the lanes and then I'll give a ring when the weather warms up a bit. Stephen |
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11th Feb 2011 6:18pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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Might bump into you tomorrow
We're starting on the west coast and going from there |
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11th Feb 2011 6:20pm |
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| alanhid Member Since: 24 Jan 2010 Location: South Lanarkshire Scotland Posts: 221  
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My underside was waxoyled a couple of years ago by the previous owner and still looks good, however reading the receipt I dont think the internal sections were done. Im going to do this myself this summer so anyone got any tips on cleaning the hollow chassis sections.........or is it as straightforward as getting a power washer in there and doing your best
 Life is not a rehearsal!
Def 90td5 CSW xs 2006 |
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10th May 2011 3:34pm |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130 
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Run water through it with the pressure washer till it runs out clean. Park on a slope for it all to run to one end and keep repeating, then just leave it to dry for a few days. Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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20th May 2011 6:34pm |
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| Yorkshire90 Member Since: 22 Sep 2011 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 193
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Had mine done professionally...don't think the missus would like Waxoyl all over the drive... was around £250 for the job done and a top up a year later...
Had the inner doors, bulkhead, chassis and rear crossmember done... Here's a few before and after pics... not by Before and After though if you avoid the pun.. JR Classics in Yorkshire 
I found it smelled a bit inside the cab for a while after but it's worth it to see your landy looking like new  [/url]
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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22nd Sep 2011 10:45pm |
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