 | Home > Td5 > To waxoyl, or not to waxoyl . . . |
 
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422  
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Well that's the thing... POR-15 is paint (of a kind) and reckoned to be very strong and sticky. Certainly when it dries it becomes so hard that even scraping it off something (ehm, like skin
 ) is virtually impossible. So why would applying that not be enough?
You can even do it before surface rust forms, it's just a bit more difficult (you need to treat the surface). |
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19th Jan 2011 5:46pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5054  
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You dont want had you want flexible 
Plus stones do some damage - throw one at yourself circa 50mph and see it hurt Mike |
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19th Jan 2011 6:00pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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Oh, I don't mean hard in the sense of hard and flakey. In fact POR-15 is very flexible (got some on a plastic bag, and it didn't flake in the slightest when bending). But it's hard in that way that you can't easily crack it with even a hammer, once properly dry.
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19th Jan 2011 6:06pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5054
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Same with hammerite... Mike Last edited by mse on 19th Jan 2011 6:49pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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19th Jan 2011 6:14pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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I've used a bit of Hammerite too, as it's easier to get over here (although that, too, is becoming difficult). I'm sure it's decent stuff, but in my experience is a bit more brittle than POR-15. I remember one episode where I was sanding down some metal with some normal black paint on it, and got stuck at one point when one black spot refused to get sanded, however much effort i put into it. Then I realised I had spilt a drop of POR-15 there.
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19th Jan 2011 6:37pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5054
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my point was a little different
Use whatever you feel. remember Waxoyl isnt a paint Mike |
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19th Jan 2011 6:50pm |
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| yobbie Member Since: 15 Nov 2010 Location: Isle of Wight Posts: 713 
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Hi everyone, this is my 1st post here and after reading this subject I thought I'd add to it with my experience. I bought a Defender Heritage a year ago that had been Before n Aftered when it was nearly new and had been waxoiled again 5 years ago by a Land Rover specialist and on inspection underneath at the Mot it was like new. I had previously done the waxoiling on my previous S11a myself but did find it is very messy so I thought I'd get mine redone at Before n After. Although the job looks good a different guy is actually doing the work now not Chris Parkrinson and just like johnszs it was an awfull state when I got it back the windows I could barely see out of, it took a whole day to clean off the waxoil that was over sprayed on the body, carpets & interior. The brakes hardly worked when I left from the waxoil on them and he had the LR 2 hours longer than he should have of which 1 hour we spent standing in his yard in the cold I will try Rustmasters next time.
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4th Feb 2011 11:02pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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I used Dinitrol as it is used by the Army:
http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/?gclid=CIbbwrLJ8aYCFQ1O4QodTlVgGw They use it as it is superior to Waxoyl as it stands up to wading. Also it’s said to be self healing. Took it to a Dinitrol specialist when the Puma was only one week old. Bit frightening as I handed over my keys to a garage on an industrial estate, who said see you in a week then mate. Wondered if I’d ever see it again! Also did the inside of the doors with waxoyl and the other bits like under bonnet etc. I’m very pleased with the result. Merlin [/url] |
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5th Feb 2011 5:52pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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Sorry to hear about the disappointing outcome Yobbie - I think if it were me, I would be looking for a full refund and a contribution to the cost and effort of cleaning it up. Sounds like the preparation and attention to detail was severely lacking. Presumably it was the lighter cavity wax that had ended up on the windows and interior, rather than the thicker underseal stuff? I would have thought that the underseal is almost impossible to remove from textiles.
Merlin, I have had a look at the Dinitrol products too, seems to be well regarded. Where abouts did you take it? It must have been a fairly thorough job if he had it for a full week! Other companies that I have looked at suggest a couple of days tops. Did they use a combination of Dinitrol and Waxoyl products then? Or solely Dinitrol? Cheers. |
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5th Feb 2011 7:06pm |
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| wurzell Member Since: 29 Jan 2011 Location: oxfordshire Posts: 141
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hi all im a new member on here as i only came across the forum 3 weeks ago we took delivery of our new 90 puma in march 2010 and it was taken straight to a land rover specialist who treated the chassis to a good covering of dinitrol its like rubber so if a stone hits it it literally bounces off i thoroughly recommend it and as we are planning on keeping it for a very long time we want to protect it from the dreaded rust cheers paul n tash
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5th Feb 2011 7:28pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226
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Does anyone have any experience of Chassis Clean in Cheshire (http://115.124.111.172/chassisclean/)? Seems from their website that they do a very thorough job, albeit at a slightly higher price than others, although I have no objection to that if the work they do is as good as it seems. They use Dinitrol products and the fact that they fully steam clean and have a drying booth appeals. It's a bit of a trek from me, but would be prepared to travel for a top notch job.
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5th Feb 2011 8:03pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 
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go and see Joe at JR classics in Doncaster,he did our last two Defs,good service and price 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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5th Feb 2011 8:05pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226
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Thanks Grockle. I've had a good look at JR Classic's website, the only reservation I had was that they don't seem to say much about cleaning and drying before treatment, which I would have thought is quite an important part of the process, unless the vehicle is factory fresh. Maybe I'm wrong in this? Some of the other replies that I've had emphasise the need to have the vehicle fully steam cleaned prior to treatment. My 90 is 5 years old, and although very lightly used could probably do with a decent clean off underneath.
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5th Feb 2011 8:18pm |
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| Double Trigger Member Since: 02 Feb 2011 Location: Tonbridge, Kent Posts: 14 
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As a result of Grockle and others recommendations I'm booked in to JR Classics on 2/3rd March and will post results. Impressed with discussion with Joe Ratcliffe regarding cleaning, and process includes rust inhibitors and waxing to all cavites (chassis, doors, bulkhead) and then undersealing. Previous thread shows they are extremely competitive and the process takes 2 days for a Defender.
I'll let you know results. |
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6th Feb 2011 7:10am |
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