Home > My Defender > Defender 90 LS/6L80 conversion. step by step! |
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marsie Member Since: 17 Nov 2011 Location: sheffieldish Posts: 532 |
Watching this with interest Great stuff
Paul 2000 90 TD5,galv chassis, d2 axles ,Bas remap , alisport intercooler , d2 transfer box , side windows-more to come-much more!! *GONE* 2004 110 TD5 Double cab. *GONE* 2010 110 2.4 XS station wagon |
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16th Sep 2016 10:19pm |
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Cold_n_Wet Member Since: 15 Oct 2012 Location: Bergen Posts: 244 |
Ill be following this thread with interest. Glen "Rafiki" 2007 110 STW - Rolling rebuild. |
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17th Sep 2016 2:40am |
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Mr Fox Member Since: 10 Sep 2011 Location: green & pleasant land Posts: 1037 |
Brilliant thread and one I'll also be watching with interest.
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17th Sep 2016 7:45am |
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psimpson7 Member Since: 20 Nov 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Qld. Posts: 221 |
Thanks everyone!
Ok, I am basically waiting on parts at the moment. I have had some stuff arrive today. New sump for the 6L80 which holds about 1.7litres more than the factory sump Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Wide mouth filter: Click image to enlarge Throttle Pedal: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge In terms of actual progress, I am still removing unnecessary stuff from the main bulkhead loom and moving a few bits and pieces. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto. 2003 90 td5 soft top. 2014 90 XS SW 2.2. |
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20th Sep 2016 5:53am |
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DMuppetTd5 Member Since: 29 Jun 2015 Location: New South Wales Posts: 8 |
Now that's nice!
Good to see something happening on your truck again Engage low range and solve problems. 01 Td5 D2 auto |
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21st Sep 2016 11:08am |
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Peter Td4 Member Since: 23 Oct 2010 Location: Antwerp, Belgium Posts: 227 |
I'm going to watch this topic, just awesome Peter,
Defender 110 StaWa - Td5 Defender 110 HCPU - Puma Defender 90 Soft Top - Td5 |
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21st Sep 2016 3:37pm |
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psimpson7 Member Since: 20 Nov 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Qld. Posts: 221 |
Hey Muppet! hows it going?
Only a very slight update but I have the steel work for the engine mounts so I have briefly tacked them together and have the engine and box sat in the car on all its mounts. I havent finally welded them all up yet just in case I need some slight changes to its position, although the mounts are slotted so I have about 10mm adjustment left / right if needed. Click image to enlarge Oh and I also have the correct length serpentine belt fitted as that arrived. 6pk1980 I have been fiddling about with other jobs including cleaning the inside. I think I am going to put the puma seats from my Stage 1 v8 into this and put the td5 seats from this in the Stage 1. I may order some dynamat to put on the firewall / footwells / seatbox but I am worried about trapping water under it causing other issues. Difficult call as when its used its normally for big trips. Ie 8500km in 16 days. Hopefully the LS will be a lot quieter than the TD5 with billet flywheel was. I do wonder how much heat is going to be generated however. Still waiting on the looms and getting the ECM/TCM back, but they safely made it to Speartech last week. I may change the engine sump / pick up and baffle this week as I have that here. I also separated the 2 skins of the foot wells to sort out a small amount of rust. That was not a fun job. I appreciate the amount of effort the spot welder had put in..... :? Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto. 2003 90 td5 soft top. 2014 90 XS SW 2.2. |
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27th Sep 2016 6:00am |
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DMuppetTd5 Member Since: 29 Jun 2015 Location: New South Wales Posts: 8 |
Things are good, trying to find a 110 over here that's in a usable condition and not stupid money! May be waiting a while
Back to your thread: As an alternative to lots of sound or heat proofing, perhaps something like raptorliner? I understand some of the paints people use for the wheel arches on Defenders have chunks of rubber in them and it seems to do well for sound insulation. I was chatting to Justin Cooper about this very topic and he shared your concerns of water harbouring, but it seems that plenty of people have fitted dynamat and similar without too many issues, perhaps put insulation where you're happy to get to it if needed without removing half the car, and raptorliner or similar elsewhere? Engage low range and solve problems. 01 Td5 D2 auto |
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27th Sep 2016 7:46am |
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psimpson7 Member Since: 20 Nov 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Qld. Posts: 221 |
Finding good cheap Defenders is hard. We found a decent rust free 110 300 tdi a couple of years ago that a mate bought but that needed a gearbox rebuild. Still, that's a lot easier than removing rust from everywhere.
The spray on coatings are an option, but in my mind look awful, especially when people paint entire cars in it, and it must be a nightmare to remove! Heard from Speartech this morning. Looms and Ecus are done. They should be posted Thursday (US time, so sometime overnight here tonight) with an estimated arrival of 3-5 days. I'm expecting to get phoned by customs to pay Duty and GST so this wont be a cheap exercise! 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto. 2003 90 td5 soft top. 2014 90 XS SW 2.2. |
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29th Sep 2016 5:37am |
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GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10379 |
Dynamat shouldn't hold water, the backing is like sealant anyway, plus the heat that you're concerned about will soon dry any moisture.
I have Roadkill (dynamat alternative) on the bulkhead and footwells on the engine side and a raptor type liner on the inner footwells, I'm hoping it will keep it quiet. |
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29th Sep 2016 6:08am |
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psimpson7 Member Since: 20 Nov 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Qld. Posts: 221 |
Cheers Greeni,
Hit my first real issue today. My engine is an L77 which has the Displacement on Demand. I was prepared for one problem when turning around the inlet manifold with the oil pressure switch being on a riser on the closing plate. However its possibly slightly more involved because of the DOD. The oil that comes up to the pressure switch is then fed back down and along the top of the 4 De-ac lifters. This is the cover plate with the oil pressure riser that gets in the way of the throttle body. next to it is the plug for the DOD De-ac lifters. You can see the raised section that goes along the middle in the casting which is the path the oil takes on its return from the pressure switch Click image to enlarge So this is with the inlet and cover plate off. Click image to enlarge And this is the underside of the cover plate: Click image to enlarge Here is the return from the pressure switch: Click image to enlarge Now looking at the same plate on the LS2 pics I can find it appears that the oil pressure riser just goes to the switch and is blind. I am confirming this at the moment Also the oil feeds that went to the lifters are blocked. I found the next few pics online. This image from a guy on another forum shows the path of the oil. And this one shows the difference in where the oil goes when the de-ac lifter is deactivated and activated. To me it looks like when the de-ac lifters are activated electronically they allow the oil to bypass the lifter itself meaning the valves don't open atall, and at the same time it knows not to inject fuel. I am trying to work out if with DOD disabled I can fit an LS2 closing plate and just block off the oil feed that was to the pressure switch without causing any issues, or if the the oil is required at the top of the De-ac lifters even if they are disabled, along with if any issues would be caused by blocking off the 8 oil drillings that come from the lifters if I for now leave it with the DOD lifters in place. They are blocked on the cars without DOD by seals in the closing plate as can be seen in one of the pics above. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto. 2003 90 td5 soft top. 2014 90 XS SW 2.2. |
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30th Sep 2016 10:27am |
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100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 411 |
I tried to turn my manifold as well on my L98 (that was in 2007/0 and had the same problem. I ordered my engine as crate and asked to have the DOD deactivated. I don't know what they did to be honest. The other problem I faced whilst thinking about having the manifold facing backwards was extensive cutting into the bulkhead. Ended up running a 4' with a 180deg elbow. m
Click image to enlarge |
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4th Oct 2016 10:36am |
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GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10379 |
Can I see that whole truck please?
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4th Oct 2016 7:14pm |
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davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888 |
If your ECU supports DoD it might be worth keeping it, there are some pretty impressive claims around the saving in fuel consumption that it offers - I don't have it on mine but given the amount of time the engine spends not doing very much having it running on 4 cylinders would be quite useful at times !
The DoD stops the valves from opening, activating just before the exhaust stroke so that, the theory says, the compressed gas acts as a "spring" helping offset the lost power during compression by assisting the piston on the down stroke. If you do remove it, could you not just change the followers and push rods for standard ones ? http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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4th Oct 2016 7:44pm |
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