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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5054

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
2nd day of owning my 90 driving down a road i use often doing 45/50 in a 70 - tractor pulls out of a cross road enough to write off my lane with me about a cars length maybe 1.5 out...abs paid for itself in 2 seconds allowing perfect slowing avoiding and continuing (as the tractor realised i was there!)

Off road TC is great - i know you wont use it there - but ive used it on some steep hills and grassed hills where it sorts stuff out...i wouldnt say essential but certainly bloody useful

Aircon on this puma is a different animal than the TD5...some facts for you to consider.
The heater fans work...the TD5 and earlier dont.
You have about 75% of heat settings and 25% of cold...the cold isnt really cold more less warm.
The air con will chill the car on the hotest of days, perfectly (well in the 90) in any condition
The car warms up...especially with the window open, due to the heat being sucked through the floor - this makes AC even more useful

We could talk seats, heated and otherwise...heated screens?...Ill give you electric windows (but then i would say the same with central locking if saying no to electric windows!)

Each to their own, but you wanted some advice from owners! Mike
Post #56290 2nd Feb 2011 7:36pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
Ok, here goes:

Zagato wrote:

What I don't want is electric windows that will go wrong eventually/rattle and add weight. Whats wrong with winding a window down.

I haven't had a single problem with mine in 1.5 years.... and my 20 year old Discovery has them too and never had a problem- My dad's Discovery's window stopped working but the motor was fine- it was the sliding frame that had rusted through which would have also happened if it was a handle type,.


What I don't want is air con, again it will need servicing and it always dries my throat out on long journeys. Whats wrong with winding a window down.

AC only needs servicing if it hasn't been used.... Turn it oin for 30 seconds once a month and you will find out it only need a service every 3-5 years (it also is the fastest way of getting mist off your screen)


I used to have heated seats in my 1972 SAAB 96. Last thing I want is a hot ass thanks very much!

Leave it turned off. I have used mine about 3 times when it was -10/-20 degC outside, but my ex used to have it on all the time (keeps passengers happy)

ABS - you can keep it, seems to be a costly pain in the ass. Whats wrong with using your foot. My ABS on other cars has never come into play, never needed it, I won't be off roading it.

Again, never had a problem with ABS on any of the cars I have owned. I have had mine kick in twice and how I thanked the lord when it did


People seem to have a stigma about electronics on a Land Rovers... Like when the Td5 was launched, I remember 80% of the people writing it off as it had an ECU etc.... fact is that once it was affordable all the competition guys started using them and loads of people use them for exxpeditions.

If anything it makes repairs cheaper.... instead of taking it to a garage to have the fault investigated, diagnosed and then the parts ordered and fitted, all you have to do is plug a box in and it tells you exaxctly what needs repairing.

Glyn Dog Sheep
Post #56291 2nd Feb 2011 7:37pm
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Mike_B



Member Since: 23 Jan 2011
Location: Moray
Posts: 550

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Java Black
If the case ( as you stated) is that you're buying the car to keep then I wouldn't worry massively about resale values. If you're adamant that you want wind down windows etc, they buy the one you want.

The reasons I advised about the extras, is that they make things easier or more comfortable - thats why they were invented! Also, they will drastically affect resale values.


If you don't want the extras, because they may eventually fail, then point 1 is void.
If you aren't reselling then point 2 is void.

Buy whichever one you want! I, however have been in the position where I've bought a car and then regretted not saving the extra few hundred quid to get the spec I really wanted...


As an aside, have you tried these?

http://www.riponlandrover.co.uk/html/news/...-offer.asp

5% off... It might not matter as you could have already negotiated a better deal with your current dealer - thought I'd check though!
Post #56292 2nd Feb 2011 7:38pm
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22900013A



Member Since: 23 Dec 2010
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 3150

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
I think I understand the pint issue - you cant have a base spec in silver, hence it being extra cost. I would say get a base spec then with the comfort pack which is the central locking and a stero/cd player. 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton
1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker
1969 IIA 1-Ton
1966 IIA 88"
Post #56302 2nd Feb 2011 8:08pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Thanks for the replies, certainly food for thought. Last week I had decided to rebuild a Defender with a Tdi in it but the cost wouldn't be much different to a Puma. So I thought try the Puma, give it a chance and if it does become a diagnostic/electronic/clutch changing nightmare simply stick another engine in but I will have given it a chance. I suppose the same could be said of the XS if there is only 4K difference between an XS demo and basic then the XS has got to be the better deal - in for a penny in for a pound.

The great thing about these vehicles is you can rip out or put in what you want! If anything goes wrong and costs money then it will be replaced by a simpler system eventually. Hope you can do that with ABS and go back to simple brakes. I don't want to be making my local mechanic rich over the years mending ABS when I can do the simple brakes myself. We''ll see how the figures stack up, only had one quote through today. Thumbs Up
Post #56311 2nd Feb 2011 8:48pm
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Sonic3d



Member Since: 28 Jan 2008
Location: Ross on Wye
Posts: 1505

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Stornoway Grey
If you don`t want gadgets and want a simple reliable vehicle why don`t you have someone like Trekoverland build you a new 300tdi on a galv chassis.
Post #56314 2nd Feb 2011 8:59pm
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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
regarding previous posts on the effectiveness of puma heating and the fact that you cannot get it really cool in the summer after you have driven it a while.....all true. My suggestion would be to get the base spec no a/c version and try it a while in the summer months - particularly if you do any amount of motorway or town driving - and if you find that open windows not enough cooling you can get an after-market LR aircon kit which fits to existing mounts/brackets etc. Cost about £1k for the bits and a few hours to fit. Plenty of places can do it and the wiring loom and interlocks on the heater fan etc are all taken care of (ie it owrks like OEM). You also DON'T get the front grille bulge as everything is tucked away so you don't need an a/c winch bumper etc - standard stuff will do.

I went for county spec cos I too did not want stuff like TC and other 'luxuries' but I did want a/c - so had it fitted after market - with the money saved on XS I spent on 2" lift and lockers - not everyone's choice. I don't get the benefit of avoiding tractors etc and have got TC on my other cars which I wouldn't be without - but I took a purist view and wanted lockers rather than TC on my LR
Post #56315 2nd Feb 2011 8:59pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Sonic3d wrote:
If you don`t want gadgets and want a simple reliable vehicle why don`t you have someone like Trekoverland build you a new 300tdi on a galv chassis.


I can do it myself when I have finished my current build and that was/is still a consideration. My current Series2 rebuild will come to 15K when completed but a Defender will be more as I want a puma dash, recon Tdi etc etc it will come to about 20K then you think all that farting about, labour, hours on the phone, miles picking bits up etc and you think sod it chuck in another 5K say and you have a Puma already done that you can drive home and finish/improve at your leisure.

Rebuilds are a very time consuming, all encompassing exercise which can leave little time for anything else. I have two kids 4 & 6 and a yacht going in for the first time this April which will take a hell of a lot of time to get ready, classic car involvement and meant to be finishing off a stationary engine rebuild, getting my 1947 BSA mot'd and finish decorating the house Big Cry suffice to say It would be so much nicer to buy new.

Sounds crazy but people that have built there vehicles rebuilds or kit cars apparently don't get the same enjoyment when finished as someone who buys one of the shelf - The hard bloody toil will have sapped any enthusiasm for the project 3 months previous Rolling with laughter I'm not kidding, you definitely hit a brick wall with a rebuild. You get fed up with it. I hit my brick wall 8 months ago Rolling with laughter
Post #56322 2nd Feb 2011 9:23pm
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cobs



Member Since: 12 Jun 2008
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 336

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue
Zagato, don't be put off the Puma by all the negative stuff you read on the forums. As has been mentioned numerous times in previous posts forums tend to be a natural place to discuss problems. I've owned my Defender for three years and it's been just fantastic.

There are enough Defender variants to enable you to spec up just what you want and if price is an issue then go for something less than a year old, it doesn't have to be ex-demo. A one year old Defender with less than 10K on the clock will be virtually indistinguishable from new, With £25K-£27K you could buy just about anything you want, more so if you can put it through the business.

So get yourself down the dealers and bargain hard - and don't forget to post a pic once you've bought it..................
Post #56325 2nd Feb 2011 9:24pm
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Nellie



Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Deep in Lincolnshire
Posts: 54

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
Well - I understand where Zagato is coming from...

We have ordered a base spec with a few options because we wanted simple (Less to go wrong and a weight saving).

1 x 110 USW. Cold Climate pack, exterior pack and cloth seats. We won't be selling - the extra's: aircon, TC, ABS, carpets, radio etc etc etc just isn't worth it for us. We will keep it basically standard until the warranty expires and then modify/upgrade as parts require it. We want to travel (Europe and beyond) so bar the complexity of the engine this will be as simple to fix as my Series truck.

Yes we could have ordered an XS but we didnt want to! A point to bear in mind - if you modify your vehicle from the original spec and don't tell your insurance company they could refuse to pay out if required. If you buy an XS spec vehicle and then modify it (Remove ABS for instance) then this may be an issue...?
Post #56334 2nd Feb 2011 9:51pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5054

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
i think in this modern world - with the kit the puma ships with as base spec...the argument of keeping things simple isnt one.

For example...if AC doesnt work...dont turn it on.
If ABS doesnt work, you get a light, but keep driving without ABS.

Im not even sure the weight is much on an already 2ton vehicle 50kg?

Also the stand electronics present enough to go wrong, as the other technology is old school (skool) - but the diagnostic capability you are then afforded makes it streets ahead Mike
Post #56362 2nd Feb 2011 10:58pm
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pom



Member Since: 01 Jun 2010
Location: Worcester
Posts: 1343

SteveS wrote:
regarding previous posts on the effectiveness of puma heating and the fact that you cannot get it really cool in the summer after you have driven it a while.....all true. My suggestion would be to get the base spec no a/c version and try it a while in the summer months - particularly if you do any amount of motorway or town driving - and if you find that open windows not enough cooling you can get an after-market LR aircon kit which fits to existing mounts/brackets etc. Cost about £1k for the bits and a few hours to fit. Plenty of places can do it and the wiring loom and interlocks on the heater fan etc are all taken care of (ie it owrks like OEM). You also DON'T get the front grille bulge as everything is tucked away so you don't need an a/c winch bumper etc - standard stuff will do.

I went for county spec cos I too did not want stuff like TC and other 'luxuries' but I did want a/c - so had it fitted after market - with the money saved on XS I spent on 2" lift and lockers - not everyone's choice. I don't get the benefit of avoiding tractors etc and have got TC on my other cars which I wouldn't be without - but I took a purist view and wanted lockers rather than TC on my LR


Could you point me in the direction of the air con kit. That's defo on my shopping list if not too bad to fit!

Pom
Post #56364 2nd Feb 2011 11:07pm
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Nellie



Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Deep in Lincolnshire
Posts: 54

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
mse wrote:
i think in this modern world - with the kit the puma ships with as base spec...the argument of keeping things simple isnt one.


We will have to agree to disagree then! If there are less parts of a system to go wrong because they are absent or of a less complicated design then the overall system is potentially/more likely to be simpler to maintain/repair. IMHO whilst a 50kg saving is not a great deal on a heavy vehicle (As you point out) - it is still 50L of fuel or water.

That is before we 'discuss' the 'virtues' of aircon on a vehicle that we will use for travel in far flung places Whistle
Post #56371 2nd Feb 2011 11:28pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
mse wrote:
i think in this modern world - with the kit the puma ships with as base spec...the argument of keeping things simple isnt one.

For example...if AC doesnt work...dont turn it on.
If ABS doesnt work, you get a light, but keep driving without ABS.

Im not even sure the weight is much on an already 2ton vehicle 50kg?

Also the stand electronics present enough to go wrong, as the other technology is old school (skool) - but the diagnostic capability you are then afforded makes it streets ahead


Mike are you saying ABS & Air con is 50KG combined or just the ABS? - Don't fancy hauling around two sacks of spuds around all the time! If it's just ABS Shocked

Is it also correct if the ABS packs up you can drive the vehicle normally afterwards like a standard system?

That's good news!

Chris

ps. Just reading in the LROI mag re a TD5 and the ABS modulator "If this fails, it can be expensive to fix - and the cause can be difficult to diagnose". This is what I want to avoid.......
Post #56387 3rd Feb 2011 7:33am
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double cab happy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2009
Location: merseyside
Posts: 573

England 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
it is true that when the ABS quits you have "standard" brakes, i have a feeling that the light on is an MOT issue though, on a previous car i had a couple of years of the mechanice fiddling with the sencer until it worked get the MOT and see the light come back on within a couple of days, the last time it came on on my return trip from the MOT centre Shocked

i may have been dune over by the garage but its worth looking into,

p.s this is one of the the reasons i dont have ABS, the second being l didn't want TC (talent control) Laughing
Post #56434 3rd Feb 2011 11:51am
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