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| Loz2286 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 121  
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Couldn't unto the top nut on mine, I replaced the plunger in situ. MInd you I've got hands like shovels and short chubby forearms. I need a tall slim girlfriend to help me out! 1999 Td5 110 CSW
1961 Series 2 88 LPG |
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3rd Mar 2016 11:50am |
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| Motoberg Member Since: 01 Oct 2015 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 104
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Did you do the contacts either side too or just the plunger ?
You may have short chubby arms but you must have 3 elbow joints on each  |
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3rd Mar 2016 12:41pm |
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| Loz2286 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 121
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Just the plunger. I know I'll have to do it again soon, but for now it ain't broke so I won't fix Iit. A job for the warmer weather. 1999 Td5 110 CSW 1961 Series 2 88 LPG |
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5th Mar 2016 6:45am |
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| srod Member Since: 20 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 190 |
After feeling around for the 15mm bolt of awkwardness and not being able to find it, I undid the easy two and off it came... was no third bolt, just a stud with no nut! Been like that the whole time I have had the car (10k) and no worries!!
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5th Mar 2016 4:02pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006 
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Wouldn't worry about it. There must be tens of thousands running around like that
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5th Mar 2016 4:03pm |
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| grumpy old git Member Since: 16 Nov 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 153
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My old D2 didn't have the top nut when I bought it, didn't have it 100K later either. As long as the others are torqued up OK it'll be fine.
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6th Mar 2016 10:42am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2081 
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I'm about to replace the 2 solenoid contacts and plunger myself, and wondered if I might do so with the starter in situ.
Feedback above suggests it is feasible 
My question is - if you had the choice again (and the fault/issue was only solenoid related) would you take the starter off or leave it in situ? Bearing in mind, my Haynes Book Of Fairytales advises that you drop the propshaft and simply states 'undo the 3 bolts' - simples  |
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10th Sep 2016 10:00pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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It is easier to have the starter motor out and on a bench to change the contacts, I probably will do it like that the next time I do mine but then again as long as I can get myself comfortable I might just do it in situ
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10th Sep 2016 10:17pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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Drop the propshaft?! Stuff that.
Did mine today, last time I had it off the contacts I'd bought were the wrong shape, so cleaned it up and it gave up again last week. Did a proper job this time. Same procedure as before. Socket-UJ-Extension-Ratchet. Ratchet operator on the floor, assisting hand in underneath the inlet manifold, over the starter and guiding socket onto nut. TD5's have undertrays? |
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10th Sep 2016 11:08pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2081
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Had a look yesterday.
I don't think it'll be an in-situ job for me! 
I'm assuming that you actually take the starter out/down from underneath? I'll have a closer look later this week and hatch a plan. It is a little more 'crammed' than I first thought. Any other helpful pointers from the seasoned professionals and amateurs like me? |
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12th Sep 2016 6:49am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763
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Yeah once the evil top nut is out, the lower bolts are easy, and it drops out through the bottom very easily. Just make sure you/assistant have a hand on it, otherwise it may drop out a little TOO easily. And it's quite heavy.
It's a pretty easy rebuild, but I couldn't imagine wanting to do it in situ. Took me and my dad about an hour start to finish, and a good 20 minutes of that was clearing space on the work bench! |
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12th Sep 2016 7:17am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2081
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Cheers Miker
The bench work is something I'm looking forward to as I do like to pay attention to detail and ensure everything is clean and serviceable (heaven knows how you'd achieve that in situ!). I'm ever the optimist and hope that like many others ^^^^ that someone at some point has left the dreaded top nut off! The helpers that I can most easily call upon tend to make matters worse - if you catch my drift 
That said, my bench is spotless so if your dad isn't busy..... |
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12th Sep 2016 11:01am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2081
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Is that just your bog standard 15mm combination spanner? I'm guessing it's the ring end given the clearance? What sort of a turn should I expect to get on that from above? cheers, Will |
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12th Sep 2016 11:09am |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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I did the job earlier this spring and just managed to remove the top bolt using this combination. Mind that I had to leave them loosely connected like you can see on the photograph. This way I could just reach the bolt.
 Click image to enlarge The ruler is in centimeters of course. Ideally the socket should be a bit thinner - I barely got to put it over the bolt because of the small space available around the bolt. The whole shouldn't have been much longer either, don't exactly remember how much space was left. I took all the time needed, and must have done it in less than two hours. I wouldn't try to replace the contacts without removing the starter - it was the first time and I almost forgot to install an insulator which would have resulted in some sparky event, something which I might not have noticed if I left the motor in situ. Here are some more pictures which might be welcome - I made them as a reference to make sure that I put things back in the correct order: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The ratchet extension shows where the motor housing would be: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Again: the ratchet extension shows where the motor housing would be: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Hope it helps. Greetings Joris |
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12th Sep 2016 7:54pm |
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