 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Are any cruise control kits truly plug and play? |
 
|
|
|
| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971   
|
I bought the Mobile Centre one which needs some splicing. I read somewhere the reason was down to cost.
The splicing that does need doing really isn't very difficult, a bit of time with some crimp butt splices or some solder and heatshrink and you're fine. I used solder splices (like a bit of heatshrink with solder inside) for a lot of them as they're waterproof. |
||
23rd Aug 2016 9:27pm |
|
| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
|
If you send us your email address I think we have the English version of the installation instructions for the Nakatanenga version.
Please note that cruise controls are safety related and need to be fitted by a competent person. Brendan |
||
|
23rd Aug 2016 9:37pm |
|
| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
|
I have Naka
The connections - except one - are generally easy. I think all the kits I have seen require to be connected to the speedo someway (to measure speed) - and that's the tough one. On the Naka, you have to splice into the cable behind the instrument cluster - a bit scarey. Pedal connections are all straight-forwards Instructions (to save Brendan looking  ) here:
https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...%20Eng.pdf I'm generally quite happy with this stuff, and it took a couple of hours... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 6:43am |
|
| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
|
I was not keen to mess around with the ribbon cable behind the dash, and after advice, I took my speed-sensor from the xfer/gearbox.
|
||
|
24th Aug 2016 6:55am |
|
| Morepower Member Since: 08 Jan 2013 Location: Fife, Scotland Posts: 630 
|
If you take you time and sort all the correct connectors you can make y-joints, So there are no modifications to the wiring loom at all...
I fitted a unit from Mobile Centre.... So I used the Throttle Pedal Harness Wired a switched live from the ign barrel made a y piece for the clutch pedal made a y piece for the brake pedal made a y piece for the gearbox speed sensor... mounted the stalk on the right side of the column (in effect its upside down) using the internal bracket mounted on the other side of the headlamp switch... Some nice alloy spacers and very careful cutting of the column trim and it was all done... Fiddly and took me months of procrastination, However I can unplug it all in minutes and the dealer can't whinge when I take it in for service/warranty... Regards Tim It doesn't matter how bad it is, It can always get worse... 2013 Bowler 110 (Sold) 2016 Bowler 90 Rally Spec (Sold) |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 9:44am |
|
| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4203 
|
I think what's putting me off is my inexperience with making electrical joints. I've done a bit of soldering over the years but never for anything this critical, and usually on a nice clean well lit bench. I don't want to make a rats nest of solder, electrical tape etcs. And I don't want joints that are going to fail after a year or two due to vibration. I'm certain I could do it once I understand the principles, but not sure this is the project to be learning on. I don't actually know what you mean by making a y-piece, I'm sure it's very simple but to me it means zilch.
I really need to man up and dive in there! |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 10:04am |
|
| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
|
The Nakatanenga one looks the same as the Mobile Centre one, the steps are the same, the stalk (in one of the pictures) is the same... certainly the MC one is a fairly generic controller with a few Defender tweaks and I'd be surprised if the Nakataenga one wasn't some so of Defenderised generic kit. They don't talk to the ECU, they just "replace" the accelerator pedal.
If you're worried about soldering, how about crimping? Either standard butt splices or the heatshrink versions. No soldering required. http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/stbht1/bu...dp/CN11433 Just make the connections with a standard ratchet crimper (don't use the crappy non ratcheting ones, they're not worth the hassle). Once you've got the cruise control box positioned there is enough slack in the cabling to chop the wires to length and have some spare to practice with |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 11:38am |
|
| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4203
|
I've already got a decent ratchet crimper and wire trippers, so would just need to decide if I prefer the idea of normal butt crimps or the solder ones.
|
||
|
24th Aug 2016 11:59am |
|
| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
|
if you contact Tim at mobile centre, he will give you Julian's details, he is based in MC and runs an auto electrical engineering company, they would fit it for you.
|
||
|
24th Aug 2016 12:17pm |
|
| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
|
There are three different types of splice, the "normal" crimp ones, the crimp ones with a heatshrink outer and then the combined solder-heatshrink ones. I like the solder shrink ones because I think it looks neater and I have more confidence in a solder connection. In theory a crimp connection is just as good if not better but I remain unconvinced  Where either of the crimp ones have an advantage is in tight areas where the heat from a trying to do the solder shrink connection would be difficult. You really need to be able to get round the back of the wire to be able to do them properly.
This is the solder joint I'm talking about: https://www.beal.org.uk/electrical-product...ge-25.html  |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 1:08pm |
|
| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4203
|
With regard to using those butt splices, is the idea that you cut the loom at the relevant point, put one side in the splice along with the wire for the cc and then put the other side in on its own. So you'd have two wires coming out of one side of the splice, and one wire coming out of the other side? Hope that makes sense.
|
||
|
24th Aug 2016 2:14pm |
|
| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665
|
Wish I had known that! Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 4:07pm |
|
| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
|
Yes. |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 4:15pm |
|
| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4203
|
 |
||
|
24th Aug 2016 4:34pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
