 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Hydraulic lifter failure - 2.4 |
 
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| WLK*ABT Member Since: 24 Apr 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 4  
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Hi all - 1st post and unfortunately a bit grim.
(Warning long post ahead!) My 2011 2.4 TDCi 85,000km (52,800ml) motor developed an 'extra' knocking sound recently which disappeared as quickly as it arrived. A check of the oil and on my way again. It appeared again after a 150km trip and by the time I drove it to my LR specialist, the noise had again disappeared. It seemed that it only was evident when the vehicle was cold. A few days later I set off on a trip and 30mins from home on the freeway the knocking/missing noise started and I immediately pulled over. This was now persistent and enough to warrant a all-up lift back home. 
This is the sound it made: It was delivered to a LR specialist who pulled the rocker cover and discovered that the cylinder four rear exhaust lifter had broken away damaging the cradle and exhaust camshaft. Here's an album of images: http://imgur.com/a/UGMa2 It can be seen that the rocker has left a gouge in the top of the cylinder head and likely nicked the spring retainer on the second exhaust valve. The initial advice from the LR specialist was to replace the broken components, flush engine and hope that was enough. Unfortunately there would be no warranty for the work and at a cost of AUD$6,800 (£3,800) this was too expensive to not have peace of mind. I'm mighty miffed that this engine has died so young! I feel that for a lifter to fail with such low KM something in manufacturing is to blame. Unfortunately it's 1.5 years past warranty and it hasn't always been dealer serviced. It has however had oil changed every 10,000km. If I want Land Rover Australia to consider assistance, they would require the car to be assed by an authorised dealer and even then it is doubtful they will come to the party. So that leaves me struggling with having to find a cost effective solution. After researching the fault and cost of parts, I elected to pursue the Ford Transit repair route. I paid a small ransom to the LR specialist for the diagnosis (6hrs labour to remove fuel line, injectors, tappet cover etc) and I trucked the car to a Ford Transit specialist. The Ford mechanic suggested it would be wise to remove the head and have it pressure tested for any damage to the head and or valves. I had the option to replace the timing chain whilst it was accessible. The fee by using Transit parts and the Ford mechanics labour was one quarter of the LR specialists price. I would also get a warranty on his work. Prior to making a decision, I went through the top of the engine looking for metal fragments and we also drained the oil and removed the sump. Hardly any fragments were found. Only a few pieces were retrieved with the biggest being half the size of a match head. We weren't looking for a lot of material as can be seen in the album but my concern is that there's still a significant amount remaining tucked away in the block. Given that the decision has been made to sell the car after one more trip, we need to resolve the issue so it doesn't come back to haunt me down the road. Even if we pull the head, check for damage and replace all the broken bits, there is still the possibility of having enough unaccounted for metal to cause piston wear and/or possibly a turbo failure. The temptation to just replace the broken components as per the 1st LR specialists advice is high however I feel that long term I wont be doing anyone any favours. I may be wrong and erring on being too cautious, I don't know. My second option is to replace the motor. The Ford mechanic has successfully dropped a Transit donk into a Defender in the past so this is where I'm heading now. I can have a new Transit engine in for AUD $7,000 (£3,800) which is what the original quote from the LR specialist was. I will replace the clutch and have the turbo checked at the same time. Now if anyone has read this far, can I ask what if any differences are in between the Ford Mk7 140PS engine and the LR 2.4 The only difference I can find mentioned is some seals (which?) and the shape of the sump (I've read you can salvage the one from the Defender to use on the Transit) Are there any other differences such as changes to the oil galleries to cope with 4wd operation (excessive angles etc) Also, once the Transit motor goes, is it essential that the injectors are replaced in the same order as before? And lastly, what programming will be required and where do I find the map to to so. Congrats and well done for reaching the end if my essay  Any guidance is greatly appreciated 
*TLDR - Lifter broke, haven't got all the broken bits = new engine. WLK ABT |
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30th Jun 2016 3:28pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4661 
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P.M. sent 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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7th Aug 2016 12:14pm |
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| WLK*ABT Member Since: 24 Apr 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 4
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Update for those interested.
As the quote to repair/rebuild to the old engine crept up the gap in price narrowed to the point that dropping a new donk in was an option to be considered. As a new engine came with a warranty and also hopefully peace of mind and a clear conscience if I elect to sell the truck down the track I bit the bullet. At the same time I had the turbo overhauled and replaced the clutch. The only apparent difference between the LR motor and the Ford transplant was the shape of the sump. I had the sump swapped over from my old motor and fitted to the transit. The injectors were fitted in the same order and the truck fired up perfectly and without any hiccups. There were some engine error codes coming up but they could've been attributed to the previous fault of the last engine. They've been cleared and I'll get them checked again soon to see if any have returned. I've driven approx 1,100 km on the new engine and I've been pleasantly surprised by the lower fuel consumption. Other than that, it drives well and is possibly quieter than before! If I had more time and patience, I probably should've pushed Land Rover Australia for some goodwill towards the repair but aside from that, I'm pleased with the result and all up it only  cost A$8000 inc new clutch and turbo recondition. |
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22nd Aug 2016 11:43pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
good out cum and with warranty too
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23rd Aug 2016 7:04am |
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