Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Chequer plate? Easiest way |
|
|
charcoal Member Since: 28 Jul 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 942 |
You could use countersunk rivets? I personally wouldn't be inclined to stick them on as they may rip off while driving at high speeds. 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold 1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold 1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold |
||
24th Jul 2016 1:07am |
|
MC84 Member Since: 22 May 2016 Location: Near Bristol Posts: 358 |
The chequer plate kits I've seen and used usually come with countersunk bolts where you can get to the other side. Mike
Hard Top 90 TD5 2001 Ford 100e 1959 www.youtube.com/mikemakesit |
||
24th Jul 2016 3:24am |
|
williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 |
Yep, just use countersunk bolts as said above.
It's easy enough |
||
24th Jul 2016 5:35am |
|
agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 |
Accessing the nut side on my puma 2.4 is pretty dang hard in some places...
In fact, some of the bolts might even be simply glued in place just to keep up appearances I believe rivnuts are the proper solution... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
24th Jul 2016 6:39am |
|
RED-DOT Member Since: 29 Jun 2009 Location: stirling Posts: 2363 |
I am well known for my thoughts on that evil invention but if you must add depretiation there is no better way.
(Joke)! 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS.. |
||
24th Jul 2016 8:10am |
|
Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 |
I've added chequer plate to my wing tops, primarily because the tops were dented when I got the car and would have needed replacing anyway if I'd wanted it to be pristine.
I fixed mine with A2 M6 countersunk screws but I fitted them with rivnuts rather than trying to reach inside to get regular its on. As charcoal says, countersunk rivets are another option. |
||
24th Jul 2016 8:40am |
|
AJC Member Since: 30 Nov 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1362 |
They're nut & bolted on.
|
||
24th Jul 2016 8:41am |
|
Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98 |
I've used stainless steel rivets - just use the pneumatic tool to mount them!
|
||
24th Jul 2016 9:30am |
|
custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20367 |
SS in Alu...
|
||
24th Jul 2016 11:11am |
|
cutts Member Since: 06 May 2016 Location: UK Posts: 36 |
thanks going to go ahead with it using this cheap method as i dont have a tool unless someone at work has one.. |
||
24th Jul 2016 11:50am |
|
Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98 |
Alu is powder coated - why not? |
||
24th Jul 2016 11:54am |
|
K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 |
Whatever you use if the holes are adequately prepared and the nuts/bolts, rivets etc. are 'wet assembled' with a decent marine grade sealant you should have no issues. Steel and aluminium are fine as long as the two are well insulated against moisture and air ingress, the two catalysts for problems. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
24th Jul 2016 11:56am |
|
Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 |
Quite agree about the sealant, I used aluminium rivets with SS screws in mine but with plenty of Duralac in between
|
||
24th Jul 2016 1:39pm |
|
chipmunk Member Since: 10 May 2012 Location: Kelso Posts: 264 |
Also used rivnuts on a TD5. But grease your bolts in case you need to remove...can't think why you would but corroded rivnuts can spin making them a sod to release, even if you're wanting to remove and renew.
Countersunk Allen bolts look very neat and professional. |
||
30th Jul 2016 12:00pm |
|
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis